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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotograjiiic 

Sdfflices 

Corporalion 


23  VWKT  MAM  STIHT 

WHSTII,N.Y.  14SM 

(71«)t7a-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inatituta  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microreproductions  historiquas 


\ 


> 


•'i 


©1984 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquaa  at  bibtiographiquaa 


The  Inttituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 

n 


n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


r~~|    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  peiiicuiie 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□   Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


'  r~71   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reiii  avec  d'nutres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  sorr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
male,  iorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqj  v  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


Th( 
to 


n 

D 

n 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restauries  et/ou  peiiicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dicoior^es,  tachaties  ou  piquies 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditach^es 


Th 
po 
of 
fill 


Or 
be 
th< 
si's 

OtI 

fin 
sic 
or 


;:|    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  in^gaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


Th 
sh 
Til 
wl 

m 

dM 
en 
be 

rill 
r-^* 
mi 


Pages  wholly  or  partial'y  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  6t6  fiimdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


I 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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The  copy  filmad  h«r«  hat  b««n  reproduced  thankt 
to  the  generoeity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Arcliives  of  Canada 

The  image*  appearing  here  are  the  beat  quality 
poaaiblo  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reprodult  grice  A  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

La  bibllothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Las  images  suivantes  ont  Att  reproduites  avac  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  f  ilmi.  et  en 
conf  ormitA  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  whon  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TIKUED"),  or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

IMaps.  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iliustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iliustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Ur  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  esf:  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reprodult  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  film*  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
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"'""'"'^''•'■•••■iii'inmiiwiiMiiiiiiiiir.niiiiiiiraBiiirjm'w 


EVERY  MAN  IlIS  OWN  GUIDE 

AT 

NIAGAPiA  FALLS, 


(i 


WITHOUT  THE  NECEHSITY  OP 

JKQL'IKY  OR  rOSSITUMlY  OK  MISTAKK  ;  INCMnXXO  THi:  SOOUCUfl 

OF  M^OAKA,  AND  ALL  PLACM   OK  INTKRKST, 

BOTU  OX  lua 

AMEPJCAKAND  CANADA  SIDE, 

EVDELLISHKO  WITH 

VIEWS  OF  THK    TALLR  AND  SUSPEXSlON  BniDGR,  BT    THE   BW'ST 

AurifiT.S,  AM)  A  I.AJIOB  JIAl'  OF  NIAGARA 

ElVKU,  liV  THE    AUTUOU. 

l'' 

ALSO,      ,  ^'*, 

A  FILL  r)r.=cniPTiox  of  the  severat,  roittes  from  Tb« 

FALLS    TO    MONTREAL,  IIOSTON,    SARATOGA    Sl'Rir'GB, 

VIA    LAKE    ONTAIHO,    LAKE     CIIAMrLAIN, 

ALIiApIV,  NEW  YORK,  ETO. 


BY  F.   H.  JOHNSON, 

TRACTICAL  S0RVEVOR,  A  KKSIDENT  AT  NlACJvlUA,  A.\»  AUTHOR  OF 
MAJl'B  AJ<DiSTAXItiTICa  OF  TUK  FAtLij. 


.  ROCHESTER: 

PUBUSHBD    ANNUALLY    BY    D,    M.    DEWEY, 
,  JUICASB  HALL.  ^ 


\ 


"■'.% 


^^TO 


A 


SnUrcd  Meording  to  Act  of  Conf^eii,  In  the  yetr  18B8,  tif 
r.    H.    JOHNSON, 

ill  th«  Cork's  OfBce  of  the  District  Court  fur  the  Northern  Dlitrlol 

of  New  York. 


BIADLK  *  BKOTHBB, 

BorrAt«. 


TO  THE  VISITOR. 


Tliifi  is  the  only  original,  correct  and  reliable  irork  in 
Biarket  The  author,  for  several  years,  has  been  personally 
and  familiarly  acquuinted  with  all  the  points  of  interest 
of  Uiia  "world's  wonder/'  and  great  pains  hare  been 
taken  to  make  this  work  in  every  respect  correct,  and 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist  The  different  routes 
ind  places  are  so  arranged  and  minutely  described,  thai 
the  stranger  cannot  bo  misled  or  hesitate.  These  pagei 
■re  given  to  the  public,  with  the  belief  tliat  something 
of  the  kind  is  needed,  inasmuch  as  works  written  by 
casual  observers,  are  either  unnecessarily  oblix  upon  some 
points,  or  not  sufficiently  clear  and  explicit  upon  others, 
to  meet  the  wishes  of  the  traveling'  public  This  diffi* 
sulty,  it  is  oclieved,  is  entirely  obyia.,,d  in  the  following 

TbM  AUTHOli 


CONTENTS. 


The  Route  to  Goat  Island 9 

The   Bridge 9 

Rapids  , 10 

Chapin  Island 11 

The  Toll-gate 11 

Goat  Island 12 

Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  the  Winds 13 

Three  Profiles , 14 

Luna  Island 14 

Sam  Patch's  Leap IS 

Biddlo  Stairs l(j 

Prospect  Tower IS 

The  Horse  Shoe  Fall IB 

Quantity  of  Water 19 

Depth  of  W^ater  on  the  top  of  Horee  ^:hoe  Fall 19 

Gull   Island ' 20 

Three  Sisters ♦ 21 

Bathiriir  Place  of  Fiancis  Abbot,  the  Hermit 22 

Head  of  Goat  Island 23 

The  First  Proprietor  of  Niagara  Falls 25 

Iris  or  Goat  Island., 26 

Local  Distances 27 

Spray 28 

Rainbows *i28 

View  of  the  Falls  at  Night 29 

«'  "        Sunrise 29 

**        Sunset 29 

Roar  of  the  Falls 30 

First  Impressions  of  Strangers 30 

Rise  of  the  River... 31 

Fall    "  "       ,.-..31 

Probability  of  Fowls  and  Fish  t;oing  over  ttie  Falls  alive  32 

Crossing  the  river  above  the  Falls 32 

V/inter  Scene 32 

The  First  Man  who  saw  tK;  Falls 33 

Indian  Tradition 33 


CONTBKTS. 


Casualties 33 

Accidents  to  Strangers 36 

A  Visit  to  Goat  Island  by  Moonlight 38 

The  Lunar  Bow 39 

A  Tour  to  Canada  by  Way  of  the  Ferry 40 

Ferry — American  Side 40 

Landing  on  the  Canada  Side....... 43 

Clifton  House 43 

The  Museum ^ 43 

Table  Rock 44 

Going  under  the  Falls 44 

Courage  of  Ladies 45 

Burning  Spring 46 

Chippewa 47 

Lundy's  Lane  Battle-Field 47 

Local  Distances — Canada  Side «, 48 

Fall  o/ Table  Rock 49 

A  Fissure  in  the  remaining  part  of  Table  Rock 51 

Burning  of  the  Caroline 54 

The  Line  between  the  two  Governments 55 

Canal  Boat  on  the  Verge  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall 56 

Fort  Schlosser 56 

Indian  Offering  to  the  Falls. ^ 56 

Point  View 7. 58 

Stanzas  59 

Lines 60 

A  Sabbaih  at  Niagara 61 

To  Niagara 63 

Catlin's  Cavo 65 

The  Route  to  Canada,  (Table  Rock,)  via  the  Suspension 

Bridge..... 66 

SuspensionJBridge 67 

Bender's  Cave 71 

A  Tour  to  the  Whirlpool 73 

Scene  at  the  Whirlpool 75 

Devil's  Hole 77 

Chasm  Tower , 79 

Maid  of  the  Mist 79 

Hackmen  and  Carriages 79 

Local  Distances  about  the  Falls— American  Side 80 

Indian  Village 80 

Health  of  the  Falls 81 


i 


^w^ 


COKTBNTS.  VU 

•j  1 

Game 81 

Fishing 82 

Amu'-ements 83 

Churches 83 

Hotels 83 

Indian  Curiosities 63 

Recession  of  the  Falls 84 

Niagara 93 

The  Upper  Lakes 94 

Lake  Michigan 95 

Detroit 97 

Amherstburg,  (Upper  Canada,) 97 

Sandusky 97 

Cleveland 97 

Ashtabula,  (Ohio,) 98 

Dunkirk,  (N.  Y.) 98 

Buflfelo 98 

Black  Rock : 98 

Tonawanta 98 

Northern  Route 99 

Montreal  and  Troj  Route 99 

Lewiston 100 

Queenston 101 

Brock's  Monument...,  lOl 

Fort  Niagara 102 

Fort  George,  or  Newark 103 

Toronto 103 

Port  Hope 104 

Cobourg 104 

Kingston 104 

Montreal 105 

Quebec... 108 

Falls  of  Montmorenci 109 

Montreal  and  Saratoga  Route 110 

La  Prairie Ill 

Lake  Charaplain Ill 

Isle  Aux  Noix Ill 

Rouse's  Point 112 

Ogdenshurg  to  Boston 112 

Plattsburg 114 

Burlington 115 

Saratoga  Springs „ 116 


TIU  CONTENTS. 

ii  '• 

Amusements 122 

Ticonderoffa 126 

Sclienectauy 128 

Amsterdam , 128 

ralatine  Bridge 128 

Fort.  Plain 128 

Little  Falls 128 

Herkimer 129 

IJtica. 129 

Trenton  Falls 129 

S}Macuse 132 

Aubmn 132 

Canandaigua 133 

Kochester 133 

Charlottesville IS.'i 

Great  Sodus  Bay 135 

Oswego 135 

Sackett's  Harbor » 135 

Cape  Vincent 136 

Ogdcnsburg 136 

Lowell 138 

Boston 138 

Fui;pose  of  the  Monument  on  Bunker  Hill 140 


/ 


^^^ 


VAUim  Eaujg: 


EVERV  Mx\N  HIS  OAVN  GUIDE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

If  tlie  visitor  stops  at  tlio  Cataract  House,  and 
wishes  in  tlie  first  place  to  view  the  scenery  on  Goat 
Island,  take  the  first  left  hand  street,  two  minutes' 
walk  Lrinojs  him  to  the  bridijc  that  loads  to  the 
island.  If  at  the  Falls  Hotel,  pass  the  Buflido  and 
Niagara  Falls  railroad  depot,  incline  to  the  left,  tho 
bndge  leading  over  the  rapids  is  in  sight,  and  but  a 
few  rods  before  you.  If  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel, 
or  the  Niagara  House,  pass  up  Main,  take  the  first 
right  hand  street,  pass  the  depot,  incline  as  above  to 
tlie  left,  the  bridge  is  just  before  you. 

Leading  to  the  toll-gate,  on  Bath  Island,  is  about 
fifty  rods  above  the  Falls.  It  is  an  object  of  interest ; 
and  the  inquiry  is  not  unfrequently  made,  how  v»as 

B 


10 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


it  eynv  constructed  over  sucli  a  tremendous  rapid. 
The  tir."t  bridge  was  thrown  across  this  angry  stream 
in  1817,  near  the  grist-mill  on  Iris  or  Goat  Island, 
with  much  hazard  of  life,  and  great  expense.  It 
\ras  caiTied  away  by  tlie  ice  the  ensuing  spring.  In 
1818,  another  was  constructed  ^\here  Bath  IsUmd 
bridge  now  stands,  by  the  Hon.  Augustjus  Porter, 
and  General  P.  13.  Porter,  broth  oi-s,  the  proprietors 
of  the  island. 

A  suitable  pier  was  built  at  the  water's  edge; 
long  timbers  were  projected  over  this  abutment 
the  distance  they  wished  to  sink  the  next  pier, 
loaded  on  the  end  next  to  the  shore  with  stone,  to 
prevent  moving ;  legs  were  framed  through  the  ends 
of  the  projecting  timbers,  resting  upon  the  locky 
bottom,  thus  forming  temporary  piers  until  more 
substantial  ones  could  be  built.  Visitors  all  pass  this 
bridge  on  to  Goat  Island.  It  is  perfectly  safe ;  car« 
riages  and  heavy  loaded  teams  cross  it  almost  every 
hour  in  the  day. 

The  next  thing  that  atb-acts  the  attention  of  the 
visitor,  as  he  passes  on  his  route  to  Goat  Island,  is 
the  rapids.  These  are  grand  and  impressive ;  thou- 
sands, in  the  summer  season,  particularly  when  the 
sky  is  clear,  stand  upon  this  bridge,  and  gaze  upon 
the  angry  flood,  as  it  roi^ues  past  them,  in  all  its  wild 


^^' 


CHAPIn's    island — THE    TOLL-GATE. 


11 


inid  tumultuous  fury,  filling  the  mind  with  emotions 
of  awe  and  indescribable  grandeur. 

From  tlie  head  of  Goat  Island,  to  the  grand  cat- 
aract, a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  the 
river  falls  fifty-one  feet.  It  increases  in  velocity  from 
seven  to  fifteen  miles  per  hour,  before  it  makes  the 
final  plunge. 

This  island  is  t©  the  right  of  the  bridge,  within  a 
few  rods  of  the  American  Fall.  A  man  by  the 
name  of  Chapin,  while  working  on  this  bridge,  was 
thrown  into  the  stream,  and  earned  by  the  force  of 
the  current  on  to  this  island.  A  Mi'.  Joel  R.  Robin- 
son rescued  him  with  a  skiff,  and  at  this  time,  both 
are  hving  in  our  village.  Hundreds  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  witnessed  this  bold  and  daring  adven- 
ture, which  few,  at  so  much  hazard  of  life,  would 
have  the  nerve  to  attempt. 

Stands  on  Bath  Island.  An  excellent  batliino: 
house,  of  warm  and  plunging  baths,  is  kept  in  fine 
order,  for  the  accommodation  of  visitoi-s ;  open  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  until  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  By 
registering  your  names  at  the  gate,  and  paying 
twenty-five  cents,  entitles  you  to  all  the  privileges  of 

Goat  Island  for  the  cm-rent  year,  or  duiing  your 
0 


12 


EVERY   MAN    III3    OWN    OUIDB. 


I! 


stay.  ILmo  is  constantly  kept  a  largo  as,sortment 
of  In:lian  work,  and  other  curiosities.  The  sm.'ill 
islands  to  the  left  of  the  toll-gate,  are  called  Ship 
and  Big  Islands,  taking  their  names  somewhat  from 
their  shape.  The  large  huilding  to  the  right,  is  a 
paper  mill,  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  exteusivt 
in  the  state. 

The  next  point  of  interest  after  passing  a  small 
bridge,  is  Iris  or  Goat  Island.  The  In<lian  Emjio- 
riimi  on  your  left,  ia  the  only  house  inhabited  on 
the  island.  A  large  assoiimeut  of  Indian  work  ia 
kept  constantly  on  hand  and  for  sale;  a  delightful 
place  to  rest.  Ice  cream  and  strawberries  furnished 
in  their  season.  Here  are  three  ways  th©  left  leads 
to  the  bead  of  Goat  Islard,  the  middle  one  acrnsa 
the  island  to  thejapida,  about  sixty  rods  above  the 
Horse  Shoe  Fall.  But  most  of  the  visitors  do,  and 
we  v.'iP,)  if  you  please,  take  to  the  right,  from  tha 
fact  that  we  get  the  less  impressive  view  of  the  FidU 
at  fii-st,  and  the  most  grand  and  imposing  last; 
which,  in  the  opinion  of  the  author,  gives  the  mind 
more  time  to  appreciate  the  magnificent  grandeur, 
and  awful  sublimity  of  these  mighty  works.  Kighty 
rods  brings  us  to  the  foot  of  the  island. 

The  fi  rst  small  sheet  of  water  nearest  you,  is  the 
Center  Fall,  or  Cave  of  the  Winds;  it  is  about  half 
way  between  the  iVmerican,  and  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall, 


I 


I 


eXNTER  FALL  OR  CATI  Or  TBI  WINDS.   1) 


Cif\i&  I^ll  oi-  G^be  of  il)e  iUIi)i>3. 

1  •  is  cave  is  between  Goat  and  Luna  Island.  It 
is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  from  below,  if  tlie  wind 
is  blowing  down  the  river,  or  from  the  Ar.erican 
shore;  you  can  stand  with  perfect  safety  upon  a 
large^  flat  rock,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  falling  sheet, 
without  inconvenience,  or  getting  the  least  wet  In 
the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  shines,  there  is  always 
a  splendid  aqd  beautiful  rainbow,  between  the  sheel 
of  water  and  the  rock,  within  a  few  feet  of  you,  and 
this  is  the  only  place  on  the  globe,  as  far  as  the  au- 
thor can  leani,  from  history  and  from  travelers, 
where  a  rainbow,  an  entire  circle  Uke  a  ring,  can  be 
seen.  Two  and  sometimes  three  have  been  seen  at 
once.  Nothing,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  can  be 
more  grand  and  imposing  than  this  view.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  astounding  scenes  on  the  American  side. 

Width  of  the  cave  is  one  hundred  feet,  diameter 
sixty,  heighth  one  hundred.  The  enterprising  pro- 
prietor has  erected  convenient  seats,  with  good,  sub- 
stantial railing,  which  leads  you  into  this  cava^ 
between  the  sheet  of  water  and  the  rock,  on  to  a 
platform  beyond. 

It  is  much  visited  both  by  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
not  only  for  the  novelty  of  one  of  the  grandest 
shower  baths  on  earth,  but  the  scenery  is  perfectlf  ^ 
iodescribable 


14 


EVERY   MAN   IllS   OWN   OCIDB. 


lii.'i 


These  profiles  are  at  tlie  foot  of  Goat  IsWd.  Id 
looking  across  tlie  first  sheet  of  water,  directly  under 
the  second,  the  lowest  point  of  rock  that  can  be 
seen  is  a  side  view  of  three  profiles,  one  directly 
above  the  other.  They  appear  about  two  feet  long, 
and  much  resemble  the  work  of  human  hands ;  the 
middle  one  is  generally  considered  by  strangers  to 
be  the  most  distinct.      ,     . 

Luna,  a  Latin  term  meaning  moon.  It  is  a  small 
island  containing  about  thiec-fourtlis  of  an  acre,  to 
the  right  of  Goat  Island,  reached  by  a  foot-bridge. 
It  is  called  Luna  Island,  not  because  it  resembles  the 
moon,  but  from  the  circumstance  of  a  lunar  bow 
being  seen  from  this  place  more  advantageously 
than  from  any  other  point.  If  the  visitor's  nervea 
are  pretty  steady,  he  can  stand  within  one  foot  of  the 
Falls,  and  see  the  angry  stream,  dashing  in  all  its 
wildest  fury  upon  the  large  rocks  below,  impatient 
to  try  its  power  in  making  this  fearful  leap.  The 
sheet  of  water  to  the  right  is  the  American  Fall ;  to 
the  left,  the  Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  the  Winds.  It 
baa  often  been  remarked  by  strangers  that  this 
island  trembles,  which  is  undoubtedly  true,  but  the 
impressions  are  somdwhdt  heightened  &om  nervona 
temperament. 


^¥ 


8AM   PATCH  8    LEAP. 


15 


Tt  wfw  ftt  tliis  point,  after  wo  pnas  a  small  foot- 
bridge about  twenty-fivo  feet  above  the  Falls,  thjit 
young  MLss  Antoinette  De  Forest  of  Buffalo,  aged 
eight  years,  by  some  unaccountable  casualty  fell  into 
the  river,  and  Charles  Addington,  aged  twenty-two, 
jumped  in  to  save  her,  and  they  both  went  over  the 
Falls  together,  June  21st,  1849. 

The  body  of  the  girl  was  found  much  mutilated, 
the  next  day,,  and  that  of  the  young  man  floated 
four  or  five  days  afterward,  when  it  was  recovered 
and  buried  in  the  village  buiying  ground.  This 
was  one  of  the  most  afflictive  scenes  that  has  occurred 
witliin  our  recollection.  Return  by  the  same  way 
to  Goat  Island.  After  resting  a  few  moments,  pass 
up  the  river  to  a  sign  on  a  tree,  Biddle  Stairs. 

Is  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  Island,  near  Biddle 
Stairs.  This  celebrated  pereon  made  two  successfid 
leaps  in  the  year  1829,  ninety-seven  feet  perpendic- 
ular, into  the  river  below.  Question  by  the  visitor: 
How  was  this  done  ?  A  ladder  was  raised,  the  bot- 
tom roasting  on  the  edge  of  the  river,  the  top  inclin- 
ing over  it.  Stayed  by  ropes  to  the  trees  on  the 
bank,  on  the  top  of  which  was  a  small  platform,  he 
Btood  gazing  upon  the  multitude  in  Canada.  The 
carriage-road  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and 
every  other  point  where  there  was  the  least  prospect 


16 


XVIRT  HAK   III8   OWN   OCIDI. 


of  seeing,  waa  filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
attracted  to  the  place  by  a  man  going  to  jump  over 
the  FttlLj.  "One  thing,"  said  he,  "can  be  done  as 
well  as  another,"  bowod  to  the  audience,  stepped  off 
the  platform,  and  went  down  feet  foremost.  Q. 
How  much  did  he  get  for  the  job  ?  A.  This  is  not 
known,  as  it  was  a  project  got  up  by  the  tavern- 
keepers  to  attract  attention;  whatever  they  gave 
him,  they  kept  to  themselves.  Q.  How  dec^p  is  the 
river  where  he  went  in.  A.  About  fifty  feet.  Q. 
How  deep  did  he  go  down  ?  A.  It  is  difficult  tc» 
answer  this  question  correctly — probably  not  more 
than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  Water  is  exceedingly 
buoyant;  when  the  accelerated  force  of  the  jump  was 
spent,  he  would  instantly  rise.  Q.  How  long  did 
he  remain  under  water.  A.  Some  said,  he  wjis 
gone  for  good,  others  affirmed  it  was  five  minutes : 
but  a  gentleman  holding  his  watch  informed  us,  it 
was  just  half  a  minute  before  he  rose.  Q.  What 
became  of  the  foolhardy  fellow?  A.  He  made  a 
jump  at  Rochester,  Genesee  Falls,  the  same  year, 
which  was  his  last    His  body  was  never  found. 

Are  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  Island,  no^r  the 
foot  They  were  erected  by  Nicholas  Biddle,  late 
president  of  the  United  States  Bank.  "Make  us 
something,"  said  he  to  the  workmen,  "to  descend 


PROSPECT   TOWER. 


11 


and  ftC'O.  ^vhat  is  below."  Those  stairs  arc  spiral  on 
\liii  inside,  tirrnly  socurod  by  heavy  iron  bolts  fas- 
U^ned  into  thu  solid  rock,  and  ore,  we  beliovo, 
peifeclly  safe. 

At  the  foot  are  two  paths  leading  in  opposite 
directions;  the  one  up  the  river  leads  toward  the 
Horse  Shoe  Fall,  but  the  path  is  so  much  obstructed 
by  rocks  which  have  fallen,  and  the  bank  is  so  steep, 
tlijit  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  got  within  thirty  rodi 
of  the  Horse  Shoo  Fall  But  the  best  view,  decid- 
edly, is  to  turn  down  the  river  a  few  rods,  and  the 
Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  tlie  Winds  bursts  upon  the 
astonished  sight,  with  all  its  terrific  grandeur.  The 
impending  rocks  hanging  over  you,  sometimes  fill 
tlio  visitor  with  alarm  lest  they  might  fall,  but  they 
seldom  fall  in  the  summer  season,  and  no  accident 
has  occurred  since  the  year  1829.  For  number  of 
steps  see  local  distincos,  page  28  Ascending  these 
fiUiirs  on  his  return,  (for  there  is  no  other  way,)  if 
he  travels  very  slowly,  he  will  avoid  much  fatigue. 

On  his  return  to  Goat  Island,  pass  up  the  river 
about  sixty  rods  to  a  small  house  built  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  island,  for  the  purpose  of  rest.  De- 
scend the  bank,  cross  a  small  bridge  to  the  tower. 
ThiiJ  is  called  Prospect  Tower. 


16 


ZVSRY   MAN   HIS   OWN   OUIDX. 


m 


ilro$piti  Jolioelr. 

This  tower  is  on  the  west  side  of  Ooat  Island, 
within  three  rods  of  the  Falls ;  forty-five  feet  high,  and 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  river  below,  surrounded 
near  the  top  by  a  portico  and  an  iron  railing.  Vis- 
itors of  a  nervous  temperament,  and  especially  old 
people,  when  stepping  out  upon  this  piazza,  not  un- 
frequently  feel  a  kind  of  giddiLess  or  tremor;  but 
in  looking  up  or  around  u|x>n  the  green  fohage,  the 
nerves  generally  b«oome  tranquil.  We  a^u  then  bei* 
ter  prepared  to  appreciate  the  overwhelming  gran- 
deur of  this  magnificent  scene.  This  view,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  author,  of  the  width  of  the  river,  the 
rapids,  the  Hcrse  Shoe  Fall  and  the  angry,  boiling 
deep  below,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  on  the  American 
side. 

The  river  below,  in  its  wild,  tumultuous  fury, 
produces  a  perfect  foam  hke  suds,  and  has  frequently 
been  called  the  river  of  milk. 

This  is  the  entire  circle  from  the  American  to  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  river.  Its  width  by  calcalation 
ij»  one  hundred  and  forty-four  rods.  It  derived  its 
name  from  its  shape,  but  it  must  have  altered  much 
since  it  was  first  named,  as  large  masses  of  rock  \t 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Horse  Shoe,  fall  every  yea* 


QUAVTITT   OF  WATER. 


19 


Qq^oiittf  of  aiJJife^. 

Professor  Lyell  says,  fifteen  hundred  millions  of 
cubic  feet  pass  over  the  Falls  every  minute.  Dr. 
Dwight  says,  one  hundred  millions  two  hundred 
thousand  tons  pass  over  the  Falls  every  hour.  Judge 
De  Vaux,  in  his  Traveler's  Own  Book,  says,  five 
thousand  eighty-four  miUions  eighty-nine  thousana 
eight  hundred  fifty-three  barrels  descend  in  twenty- 
four  hours;  two  hundred  eleven  millions  eight  hun* 
dred  thirty-six  thousand  eight  hundred  fifty-three 
every  hour ;  three  millions  five  hundred  thirty  thou- 
<jand  six  hundred  fourteen  every  minute ;  fifty-eight 
thousand  three  hundred  forty-three  every  second. 
^'I  should  think,"  says  one,  "that  the  river  would 
exhaust  itself."  True,  when  the  npper  lakes  run 
dry,  Niagara  will  be  no  more. 

Other  estimates,  by  scientific  gentlemen,  ha^e  been 
made,  ai-riving  at  nearly  the  same  results. 

SeOff)  of  ID^fel-  orj  il}e  Up  of  Jfoi-3e  §l)oe  U\\. 

It  is  estimated,  by  Professor  Lyell  and  others,  to 
be  twenty  feet  in  the  center,  or  where  the  water 
looks  so  green.  There  is,  however,  a  better  data^ 
ascertain  tuis  fact,  than  all  the  calculations,  however 
learned.  The  ship  Detroit  being  condemned  on  the 
lake,  was  bought  by  a  company,  loaded  with  a  hvt 
bufialo,     bear,  doer,  and  other  animals^  was     sent 


20 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


■  I 

1 


over  the  Falls  in  the  year  1829.  She  v.is  knocked 
to  pieces  in  the  rapids,  except  about  half  of  her  hull, 
which  was  filled  with  water.  It  drew  eighteen  feet, 
and  passed  over  the  point  of  the  Horse  JSlu>e,  clear, 
without  touching.  Hundreds  saw  her  make  this 
fearful  plunge,  and  I  have  no  doubt  in  my  own 
mind  that  the  estimates  are  con-ect.  Tiiis,  then, 
gives  a  solid  column  of  water  on  the  top  of  the  rock, 
twenty  feet,  or  as  deep  as  an  ordinary  welL 

ai|ii  u[^i)b. 

This  is  a  small  island  just  above  the  Hoi'se  Shoe 
Fall.  It  has  never  been  approached  by  man,  and 
perhaps  never  will  while  Niagara  rolls,  unless  a  sus- 
pension bridge,  or  some  other  means  are  devised.  It 
took  its  name  from  the  quantity  of  gulls  that,  late 
in  the  fall  and  early  in  the  spring,  light  upon  it, 
and  some  think  hatch  their  young  there;  at  ail 
events  they  are  not  dis'  j-bed,  and  are 

"Monarchs  of  all  they  survey, 
•   Their  rights  there  are  none  to  dispute." 

The  visitor,  after  spending  what  time  he  Tvnshes 
on  Prospect  Tower,  will  return  to  the  bank.  If  he 
wishes  to  reach  his  hotel  by  the  nearest  route,  with- 
out going  round  by  the  head  of  the  island,  take  a 
small  path  dinocUy  back  of  the  building  fronting 
Prospect  Tower.    This  is  a  pleasant  walk  leading  to 


m 


i 


THRES    SISTBRS. 


21 


the  bridge,  and  shortens  the  distance  more  than 
one-half.  But  we  will  suppose  he  wishes  to  continue 
his  rambles  around  Goat  Island,  as  there  are  many 
objects  to  excite,  and  will  peculiarly  interest  him. 

The  best  point  to  get  a  correct  view  of  the  shapo 
of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  is  about  forty  rods  up  tie 
river,  from  the  point  where  you  ascend  the  bank 
from  the  tower,  near  A  small  stone  monimient,  di- 
rectly in  his  path,  marked  with  a  cross  on  the  top, 
set  by  the^surveyors  to  ascertain  if  tlio  Falls  recede. 
Let  him  step  to  the  bank,  and  he  will  get  one  of  the 
best  views  of  the  shape  of  the  Horse  Shoe  there  is, 
on  either  side  of  the  river. 

As  the  visitor  passes  np  the  river,  he  will  notice 
piers  filled  with  stone  near  the  water's  edge.  These 
were  made  by  the  proprietor  of  the  island,  to  pre- 
vent the  bank  from  washing.  The  next  thing  he 
notices  is  three  small  islands  near  the  shore.  These 
are  c^-led 

A  man  by  the  name  of  A.  P.  Allen,  some  eight 
years  since,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  river  in  a  skif^ 
from  Chippewa,  unfortunately  broke  one  of  his  oars; 
but  with  a  skill  and  coolness  never  surpassed,  he 
managed  to  reach  the  outer  island,  jumped  ashore, 
while  his  skiff  darted  on  like  an  arrow  over  the 
Falls.  Though  saved  from  immediate  death,  yet 
his  situation  was  perilous  in  the  extreme,  the  hope 


22 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


m 


1 1 


of  rescue  was  extremely  doubtful  and  starvation 
was  staring  him  in  tlie  face.  Two  niglita  and  one 
day  he  remained  upon  this  lonely  spot.  lie  struck 
a  fire,  the  smoke  wreathed  in  columns  ahove  the 
ti-ee-tops.  Great  numbei-s  of  our  citizens  assembled, 
and  heard  his  cries  for  help.  At  length  a  rope  was 
thrown  across  from  one  island  to  the  other,  and  by 
means  of  a  skifi^,  the  same  intrepid  Robinson  that 
rescued  Chapin,  succeeded  in  bringing  him  safe  to 
shore.    Both  ai'e  Hving  in  our  village  at  this  time. 

£^{l)ii]g  ^liice  of  I\':(m$  Ji^bof,  ll^e  Jfei'hilf. 

The  bathing  place  of  Francis  Abbot  is  on  the 
west  side  of  Goat  Island,  the  flret  perpendicular  cas- 
cade after  leaving  Prospect  Tower,  near  the  three 
islands  called  the  Three  Sisters.  He  was  learned, 
gentlemanly  and  accomplished,  pleasing  in  address, 
but  could  not  be  approached  by  a  stranger;  he 
lived  nearly  twenty  months  entirely  alone.  He  was 
drowned  below  the  ferry,  in  the  year  1831.  His 
body  was  found  at  Foil  Niagara,  fourteen  miles 
below,  recognized,  brought  back  and  sleeps  in  our 
burpng  ground.  This  lonely  spot  was  resorted  to 
by  this  singular  indi>ddual  generally  at  night  The 
thunder's  tenific  sound,  the  liglitiiing's  blaze  mingled 
with  the  roar  of  the  catai'act,  was  the  element  in 
which  he  delighted  to  breathe.  Very  Uttle  is  known 
of  his  history. 


HEAD   OF   GOAT   ISLAND. 


23 


Jfe^d  of  fio^f  Isiqn^.  ..'.^       . 

At  this  point,  Navy  Island,  near  the  Canada  shore 
o  the  right,  containing  three  hundred  and  forty 
acres,  the  scene  of  the  McKenzie  war  in  1837-38, 
is  in  plain  sight  It  was  occupie  by  three  or  four 
hundred  Ameiicans  —  a  heterogeneous  mass  of  all 
classes,  without  discipline,  or  any  efficient  means  to 
carry  on  war.  Chippewa,  on  the  Canada  shore  but 
a  short  distance  below,  contained  at  the  time  four  or 
five  thousand  British  soldiers.  The  two  governmenta 
took  no  active  part  in  this  hot-headed  enterprise, 
and  it  fell  by  its  own  weight.  Grand  Island  is  to 
the  left  on  the  American  side,  resembling  the  main 
shore,  containing  seventeen  thousand  two  hundred 
and  forty  acres,  purchased  by  M.  M.  Noah,  and  ao- 
cording  to  his  fancied  visions  it  was  to  be  the  future 
home  of  all  the  Jews  on  the  globe.  The  visitor  in 
turning  his  eye  to  the  right  and  left,  will  readily 
perceive  how  this  island  divides  the  river,  the  greater 
portion  rolling  to  the  Canada  shore. 

It  would,  while  passing  the  bridge,  be  thought  in- 
credible that  any  person  could  reach  the  island 
before  any  bridge  was  built  Yet  such  is  the  fact; 
BF>  early  as  1765,  several  French  officers  were  con- 
veyed to  it  by  Indians  in  canoes,  carefully  dropping 
down  the  river,  between  the  dividing  waters  whore 
the  river  for  some  httle  distance  is  calm,  and  Peter 
B.  Porter  of  Black  Pock,  with  jcme  other  gentlemen, 


tfi 


I 


24 


IVXRT  Mlir   BIS   OWN   QUIDI. 


also  made  a  trip  to  the  island  in  a  boat.  Thej 
found  but  little  trouble  in  descending,  but  their 
return  was  difficult  and  hazardous.* 

It  was  eflfected  by  shoving  the  boat  with  setting 
pules  up  the  most  shallow  part  of  the  cun-ent  for  a 
half  a  mile,  before  making  for  the  shore.  Falling 
into  the  current,  within  a  mile  of  the  Falls,  must  b« 
fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have  happened, 
but  all,  as  far  as  the  author  can  recollect,  were 
hurried  on  to  destruction. 

It  is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian,  partially  in- 
toxicated, on  attempting  to  cross  the  river  in  a  canoe, 
was  drawn  into  the  rapids.  Finding  all  efforts  to 
reach  the  shore  unavailing,  he  took  a  good  horn  of 
whiskey,  lay  down  in  his  canoe,  passed  rapidly  over 
the  Falls,  plunged  into  the  yawning  vortex  below 
and  disappeared  forever.  At  this  point,  the  head 
of  Goat  Island  where  we  are  now  standing,  it 
can  be  more  satisfactorily  explained,  why  it  was 
called  Goat  Island.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Sted- 
man,  about  seventy  years  since,  put  some  goats  upon 
the  island,  which  remained  there  nearly  two  jeai% 
He  reaehed  the  island  and  returned  the  same  way 
iB  the  Indians  and  others  had  done. 

the  old  clearing  you  notice  at  the  left,  some  part  of 
it  is  an  Indian  burying  ground,  but  of  the  tribe  to 

f  *  Trees  marked  1765  and  1769,  were  within  a  few  TSUI 
fti^  clearly  to  be  seen. 


THE  FIRST  PUOPRTETOR  O*  JTTAOARA  FALLS.      26 


>7 

ir 

g 

a 

S 

i, 
e 


wlioni  it  Ivilonfred,  Tiothinor  defiuite  is  laiown.  It  il 
FU]-)|)()se(l  by  some  thoy  wore  the  Iroquois.  The  fol* 
lowiiii^  lilies  were  composed  by  a  young  hidy  from 
Boston,  while  seated  under  the  shade  of  a  cedar,  '^ 
tlie  lu:'ad  of  Goat  Island,  looking  over  the  graves  of 
the  wai'iiors,  the  niigh(y  dead,  who  sluud^er  in  si 
leuce  here.  Indian  bones  have  been  exhumed  withiw 
a  few  years. 

The  white  man  lias  driven  the  Int'vari  away, 

Far  from  Ni;'.c;ara'8  shore; 
N«  move  is  he  jiormittod  to  stay 

And  hear  thd  loud  Cataract  roar. 

The  -^'.ir-vhoop  *h\i  who'd  o'er  Kiagara'a  idles 

IXc'w?  Iong.suu?e(lie  I  liway ; 
Fnr  in  Oit'<e  londy  wilds, 

Where  the  wild  Vtif  devours  his  prey 

In  the  distant  wilds  of  the  west, 

The  red  man  soui,'lit  for  repose, 
Where  the  mind  iitid  body  would  be  at  rest, 

Away  from  the  white  men  —  his  foes. 


To  the  honie  of  his  fat)i(M-s  the  chieftain  has  £^one, 
No  more  will  he  lead  rorth  the  brave  to  the  battle, 

His  warriors  no  loi);^er  around  him  will  throng, 

Where  the  swift  arrows  i\\  and  the  armor  doth  rattlet 


Ifo  more  will  his  name  produce  tenor  and  dread, 
'JSoT  Lis  arm  be  uplified  to  strike  the  death  blow  ; 


26 


EVERr   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


Low  Lo  sleeps  in  the  dust  •whore  ftlumber  the  dead. 
While  the  plants  of  the  valley  over  him  grow. 

The  tribe  that  once  followed  their  cli^ef  to  the  figlit— 
Like  the  mist  o'er  Niagara,  how  vjniished  away  I 

Far  from  the  land  of  their  birth  they  have  taken  their  flight, 
The  once  noble,  and  valiant,  and  brave,  where  are  they  1 

"We  will  now  reiiirn  to  the  hotel.  Sixty  rods 
brings  us  to  the  former  residence  of  Francis  Abbot, 
the  hermit  of  Niagara.  It  was  an  old  log-house  on 
the  east  side  of  the  island,  but  within  a  few  jeara 
has  been  taken  down.  Here  he  hved  for  twenty 
months  entirely  alone,  as  he  could  not  be  approached 
by  a  stranger;  though  gentlemanly  and  accom- 
plished, having  seen  much  of  the  world,  and  possess- 
ing a  mind  replete  with  useful  knowledge,  yet  he  held 
converse  with  none,  except  a  few  confidential  fj-iends. 

A  few  things  w©  will  pass  in  review,  in  reference 
to  this  route,  before  we  take  a  trip  to  Canada,  or 
leave  this  enchanting  spot  forever. 

Iris  or  Goat  Island  contains  sixty-nine  and  a  half 
acres,  is  a  fraction  over  a  mile  in  circumference,  and 
heavily  timbered.  Most  of  the  smooth  bark  trees  are 
marked  with  initials  bearing  different  date-.  "In 
1805,"  saya  Judge  Porter,  "there  was  a  beech  tree 
on  the  bank  near  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  marked 


I 


LOCAL   DISTANCES.  2Y 

1 7  7  9,  1 7  7 1  and  1 7  7  2."  The  names  of  tliese  early 
travelers  are  not  recollected. 

No  sportsman  is  allowed  to  carry  a  gun  on  to  this 
island,  aa  it  would  endanger  the  lives  of  those  who 
are  promenading  through  it.  It  is  called  Goiit 
Island,  from  the  circumstance  of  a  man  by  the  name 
of  Stedman,  at  a  vejy  early  date,  having  put  some 
goats  upon  it.  It  is  a  wild,  rural  and  delightful  ro 
treat ;  in  the  hottest  days,  there  is  always  a  refresh- 
ing and  invigorating  breeze  from  the  river.  There 
are  three  bridges  connected  with  this  island  and  one 
tower. 

The  visitor  will  perceive  there  is  an  excellent  car- 
riage-road entirely  round  the  island,  and  if  he 
chooses,  he  can  get  a  good  carriage  to  carry  a  party 

of  six  or  eight  at  an  expense  usually  of  one  dollar 
per  hour. 

Local  distances  connected  with  Goat  Island,  are 

js  follows : 

From  the  Cataract  House  to  Goat  Island 75  ro<U. 

From  the  Eagle 70  " 

From  the  Falls  Hotel 85  " 

From  the  St  Lawrence  Hotel 110  ** 

From  Goat  Island,  where  the  road  ascends  the 

bank  to  the  foot 80  *» 

From  foot  of  the  island  and  up  the  river  to  Biddle 

Staira 15  " 


i  ,f 


1 


.  m 


I 


il  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 

From  Biddlc  Stairs  to  Trospcct  Tower C5  rod* 

From  Prospect  Tower  to  the  Three  Sistora 150    " 

Head  of  Goat  Island C5    " 

Hermit's   Cabin 40    • 

Tothe  Bridge 45    " 

Circunifereneo  of  Goat  Island 37G    '* 

The  whole  distance  from  the  Cataract  House  nround  the 
island,  is  one  and  a  half  miles  and  a  fraction  over. 

Number  of  steps  about  Goat  Island. 

Foot  of  the  island 22 

Biddle  Stairs 115 

Prospect  Towor 39 

Spray,  like  smoke  of  a  burning  mountain,  some- 
times rises  into  tlie  Lorizon,  forming  dark,  heavy 
clouds,  tinged  with  the  refulgent  rays  of  the  rising 
and  setting  sun,  -wbicli  Lave  been  seen,  says  Judge 
Poller,  more  than  one  hundred  miles. 

1^  {|  I  r)  5  0  bj  3 . 

There  are  two: — One  is  always  seen  in  the  day- 
time, when  the  sun  shines ;  the  other  at  niglit  — 
called  the  Lunar  Bow.  The  latter  is  only  buhdil 
once  a  month,  when  the  moon  is  at  full,  sufficiomly 
high  in  the  heavens,  and  the  sky  clear.  And  ]S'i;ig- 
ara,  as  far  as  the  author  can  learn  fjom  travelers  and 
from  histoiy,  is  the  only  place  on  the  gl<jbe,  whcrQ 


1 


s 


i 

T 

1 

! 

i 

^ 

3 

1 

- 

,■ 

1 

f 

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1 

a 

1 

-•   ,  1 

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w 


m 


'r'*..»'-    ■  •    I*.    '";V"  •     '^  »  1 


THE  AMEHICAN  FALL  BY  MOONLirrHT. 


' 


THE    FAU3   AT   MC'UT  —  &UNR1BE SUNSET.     29 

a  ral'ibow  at  night  can   be  soon  >vitb  (.li.«*tinotno.s.4. 
At  all  evonta,  tho  Lunar  Bow  ia  poculiur  to  tbw 

place. 

Dielu  of  i()e  Iqlls  qf  IfifjM. 

An  evening  view  liius  a  very  dillorcnt  ellbct  upon 
,  tho  mind  of  tho  behulJer,  than  wlion  seen  in  tho 
daytime.  The  nioon-beanis  pl-'iyiiig  upon  the  agi- 
tated uators;  tlie  s]iray,  hi^e  tlie  'uoko  of  a  volcano, 
rising  into  tlie  sky;  the  ontlless  roar  of  the  cataract, 
mingled  with  the  heart's  deepest  impressions,  give 
such  an  indescribable  sublimity  and  grandeur,  that 
hmgunge  is  but  a  poor  vehicle  to  convey  tho  inipres- 
Bions  we  feel. 

h)U\i3    of   fl|C    Ifllls    I|f    §l(l()lMSC. 

This  view  is  thought,  by  thousands,  to  be  per- 
fectly uiLSurpassed ;  and  has  no  rival  in  grandeur, 
sublimity,  and  interest.  Every  point  of  time,  how- 
ever, is  different,  and  has  its  different  etiiact  upon  the 
beholder. 

3)uli)  of  fl}e  lulls  fif  §i(i>sef. 

"When  tho  sun  has  rolled  onward  in  his  chariot 
of  fire,  and  thrown  his  last  rays  upon  ^Niagara,  bid- 
ding adieu,  for  tho  night,  to  tho  gr.'inJeur  of  the 
scene  that  so  much  in  power  resembles  himself,  tho 
view  is  perfectly  indescribable. 


I 


'.   '.' 


■•     I: 


IP 

vn 


so 


XySR7   MAH   mo   OWN   GUIDK. 


i 
t 


P!1  ! 


i; 


^o?(lr  of  ibe  f  ^ll3. 

This  depends  mucli  upon  the  wind,  and  the  state 
of  the  atmosphere.  Sometimes,  every  door  and 
window,  the  least  ajar,  for  a  mile  in  circumference, 
will  tremble — caused  by  the  concussion  of  the  air; 
and  the  'oar  may  be  heard  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
miles.  At  other  times  our  citizens  would  scarcely 
know  that  there  were  falls  in  the  neighborhoo<L 
"  In  a  few  instances,"  says  Mr.  Hooker,  the  oldest 
<yuide  to  the  Falls,  "they  have  been  heard  at  To- 
ronto, a  distance  of  forty-four  miles." 

Ei>sf  lio&l'e^glorjs  of  gil-qogel*?. 

At  first  sight,  strangers  are  sometimes  disap- 
pointed ;  either  their  expectations  have  been  raised 
too  high,  or  the  sublimity,  grandeur,  and  magnifi- 
cence of  the  scene  far  surpasses  every  thing  they 
could  possibly Jiave  anticipated. 

The  second  view  is  frequently  more  impressive 
than  the  first.  The  longer  the  visitor  tarries,  the 
morfc  ho*  enjoys  and  appreciates;  the  impression  is 
indelibly  cnstamped  upon  his  memory,  and  for 
years  infixed  thore,  as  with  the  imprint  of  a  sun- 
beam. 

The  Falls,  if  is  true,  when  seen  from  above,  do 
not  appear  more  than  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high;  but 
let.  the  viiiitor  go  below,  if  he  would  get  a  correct 
impression   of   this    stupendous   work.      Beauty 


RISK    AND    FALL   OF   THE    RltK!!. 


31 


' 


grandeur,  and  awful  Sublimity,  enstamp  upon  bia 
heart,  those  emotions  he  never  can  express. 

V$6  of  ffee  l^ibei-. 

Those  causes  which  swell  other  rivers,  have  no 
eCect  upon  this.  It  never  ris-^s  unless  the  wind  has 
been  blowing  down  Lake  Erie  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion. S.  Ware,  Esq.,  who  has  kept  the  ferry  for 
seventeen  years,  says,  "  one  foot  on  tha  top  of  the 
Falls,  will,  by  actual  measurement,  raise  it  seventeen 
and  a  half  feet  below."  This  is  attributable  to  the 
river  being  pent  up  in  a  very  narrow  pass  at  the 
Whirlpool,  and  cannot  find  its  way  out  as  fast  as  it 
accumulates  above. 

I^ll  of  flie  ^IbeK 

From  Lake  Lrie  to  Lake  Ontario,  (36  miles,)  339 
feet;  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  head  of  Goat  Island, 
(22  milea,i  25  feet;  from  the  head  of  Goat  Island 
60  the  main  fall,  (half  a  mile,)  50  feet;  perpendicu- 
lar heigl '.  of  the  American  Fall,  164  feet;  on  the 
Canada  side,  158  feet;  from  the  Falls  to  the  Whirl- 
pool, (2^  miles,)  64  feet;  from  the  Whirlpool  lo 
Lake  Ontario,  (11  miles,)  25  feet.  Total  in  36 
miles  between  the  two  lakes,  339  feeK 


I 


f 


f 


m 


82 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


ti^obiiblilfij  of  f  o(d13  A']^  I'^^)  3^^^  obc'c  ii]e,  f  ^li3 

In  some  instances  tliey  do  —  but  generally  are 
in  a  "wounded,  mutilated  state.  On  tlie  morning  of 
the  lOtli  September,  1841,  more  thai  four  hundred 
ducks  were  picked  up,  dead,  having  gone  over  the 
night  previous. 

If  fish  should  take  a  perpentjcular  direction,  they 
might  survive.  But  if  they  should  strike  flatwise, 
it  would,  in  our  opinion,  kill  them  as  sud.^f^nl  -is 
if  they  fell  on  a  rock. 

The  usual  crossing  place  is  2  1-2  miles  above  the 
Falls;  though  sail-boats  and  canoes,  when  the 
wind  is  blowing  up  the  river,  have  crossed  much 
nearer. 

It  is  thought  by  many,  who  have  visited  the 
Falls  at  this  season,  that  it  far  surpasses  that  of 
summer.  The  icicles,  in  the  shape  of  inverted 
cones,  hanging  from  the  high  banks,  the  dazzling 
splendor  of  an  effulgent  sun  darting  his  fiery  beams 
upon  them ;  the  frozen  spray,  clothing  the  trees  in 
its  silvery  robe;  the  roar  of  the  ice,  as  it  rushes  on- 
ward to  try  the  fearful  leap ;  the  ceaseless  thunder 


THE    FIRST   MAN   WHO    RAW    THE    PALLS.        33 


of  the  cataract,  the  bow  of  promise,  smiHng  se- 
renely upon  the  angry  flood;  tlie  enchained  river 
within  its  icy  embrace,  struggling  like  some  mon- 
Bter  of  the  deep  to  be  free,  all  combine  to  render 
the  scene  awfully  grand  and  terrific.  No  language 
is  adequate  to  give  a  correct  impression;  it  must  be 
Been  before  it  can  be  appreciated. 

The  first  white  man  who  saw  the  Falls,  as  far  aa 
we  have  any  authentic  record,  was  Father  Henne- 
pin, Jesuit  missionary,  sent  out  from  the  French 
among  the  Indians,  as  early  as  the  year  1678,  174 
years  since.  His  descriptions  were  visionary,  and  ex- 
ceedingly exaggerated.  He  thought  the  Falls  six  or 
seven  hundred  feet  high,  and  that  four  persons  could 
walk  abreast  under  the  sheet  of  water,  without  any 
other  inconvenience  than  a  slight  sprinkling  from 
the  spray >  But  we  would  not  attribute  this  wild  and 
fanciful  description,  to  a  want  of  candor,  or  an  in- 
tention to  deceive.  The  fact  probably  was,  he  had 
no  means  of  measuring  its  height,  and  undoubt- 
edly got  his  account  ffom  the  Indians,  which  very 
*ikely  would  be  incorrect 

The  Indians,  it  is  saii  in  Judge  De  Yeaux's  works, 
iiave  a  tradition  that  two  human  beings,  yearly,  will 


f  IH 


^\l 


a 


H 


IVERT    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDB. 


m 


he  sacrificed  to  the  Great  Spirit  of  these  \.^wc»a. 
Whether  any  reliance  can  be  placed  upon  the  tra- 
dition of  the  Indians  or  not,  it  is  nevertheless  t.rue^ 
that  almost  every  year  has  proved  fatal  to  some  one. 
A  few  instances,  only,  c&n  be  mentioned.  John 
York,  who  is  supposed  to  have  gone  over  the  Falls, 
as  pieces  of  his  boat,  and  part  of  the  loading  were 
picked  up  below,  28th  Nov.  1841.  William  Ken- 
tedy  was  in  the  boat  with  him,  and  found  dead  on 
i.     .  ^'  Island,  just  above  the  Rapids. 

Dr.  Hungerford,  of  West  Troy,  was  killed  by  a 
rock  falling  upon  him,  between  Biddle  Stairs  and 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds.    May  27,  1839. 

J.  H.  Thompson,  of  Philadelphia,  was  washed  oflf 
of  a  rock  below  the  Falls,  under  the  great  sheet  of 
water,  by  leaving  the  guide  and  venturing  too  far 
upon  places  of  danger.    August  16,  1844. 

Miss  Martha  K.  Rugg,  from  Lancaster,  near  Boe- 
wn,  Mass.,  while  picking  a  flower,  fell  over  the  bank, 
just  below  Bamett's  Museum,  (Canada  side,)  one 
hundred  and  fifteen  feet.  August  23,  1844.  She 
lived  about  three  hours. 

Charles  Smart,  from  Philadelphia,  fell  about  forty 
feet  from  a  rock  in  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  Aug. 
31,  1846.    Killed  instantly. 

John  Murphy,  aged  fourteen  years,  son  of  « 


I 


eAflUALTIlSk 


85 


vKaUW  ladj,  of  our  villiige,  attempting  to  croas  the 
river  in  a  canoe,  about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  was 
drawn  into  the  current  and  went  over.  His  body 
has  never  been  found.    June  13,  1847. 

A  son  of  Mr.  White,  aged  five  years,  and  his  sis- 
ter about  one  year  and  a  half  older,  were  playing 
in  a  canoe;  it  floated  out  into  the  stream;  the  ag- 
onized mother  beheld  this  heart-rending  scene  — 
she  rushed  into  the  river  nearly  up  to  her  neck  -^ 
rescued  the  girl,  the  boy  went  over.  He  was  last 
seen  sitting  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  holding  on 
to  each  side  with  his  hands.  July  9,  1848.  His 
body  has  never  been  found. 

A  gentleman  from  Buffalo,  supposed  to  be  on  an 
excursion  of  shooting  ducks;  his  boat  was  drawh 
into  tlie  rapids  above  the  Grist  Mill  —  seen  by  sev- 
eral of  our  citizens  to  pass  under  the  Bridge-— 
heard  to  exclaim,  ^  can  I  be  saved.  His  boat,  with 
the  velocity  of  lightning,  passed  on,  dashed  against 
a  rock  nearly  opposite  the  Chair  Factory,  he  was 
thrown  out — went  over  feet  foremost,  near  the 
American  shore.  August  25,  1848.  He  has  neror 
been  found. 

A  Mrs.  Miller  cat  her  shawl  in  pieces^  tied  them 
together,  hung  it  over  the  Bridge  leading  to  Qoat 
Island,  intending  doubtless  to  impress  the  belief  that 
she  had  let  herself  down  into  the  angry  flood,  and 
had  gono  over  the  Falls.    Very  few  of  our  citizen 


!» 


h 


II 


•'■i:i 


Wl 


3d 


EVERY   MAN   UIS    OWN    OUIDE. 


1}   ' 

m  ■ 

■i  , 


It    • 


believed  it,  as  there  was  too  muoli  pains  taken,  for 
the  purpose  of  committing  suicide ;  it  was  all  a  farce, 
as  she  was  heard  from  at  Syracuse  and  other  places, 
a  few  davs  after.  Some  love  affair  occasioned  this 
wild  freak.  Her  little  children  were  very  kindly 
taken  care  of  by  Hon.  A.  Porter,  until  lier  friends 
at  Detroit  could  be  informed  of  the  occurrence,  and 
they  removed  to  their  home.  Her  father,  a  very 
respectable  lawyer,  died  soon  afterward,  it  waa 
thouo-ht  of  a  broken  heart. 

A  gentleman  from  Troy,  X.  Y.,  in  the  winter  of 
1852,  while  passing  over  the  Bridge  to  the  Tower, 
fell  into  the  river,  was  instantlv  carried  to  the  verfje 
of  ^he  precipice,  and  lodged  between  two  rocks. 
Mr.  Bruster  I .  Davis  rescued  him,  by  throwing  some 
lines  in  the  direction;  he  had  just  sufficient  strength 
left  to  tie  them  around  his  body,  and  they  drew  him 
to  the  Bridge,  whence  he  waa  taken  to  the  Falls 
Hotel.  He  remained  speechless  for  several  horn's, 
but  finally  recovered  and  returned  to  his  home. 

There  are  not  as  many  accidents  in  proportion  U 
the  number  who  visit  the  Falls,  as  among  our  citi 
zens.  Strangers  are  generally  more  careful  and 
timid,  cautious  how  they  approach  places  of  appa- 
rent or  real  danger,  until  satisfied  of  theur  perfect 
safety.     Some  have  a  more  fool-hardy  adventure  in 


ACCIDENTS   TO    STIlANGERS. 


87 


9 


Jieir  constitutions;  "will  p.^s  into  crags  and  rocLs, 
^•here  hiinian  bcinfj.s  never  ought  to  go.  Tiiis  is 
not  only  dangerous,  but  it  is  perfectly  uncnlled  for,  as 
all  the  -wlldness  of  tins  terrific  scene  cm  bo  viewed 
without  running  the  least  risk. 

It  Inis  frequently  been  remarlied  to  the  author 
both  by  ladie^s  and  gontlonien,  v»hile  standing  upon 
Rome  gid'ly  point,  say  an  isol.-ited  rock,  on  tlie  west 
side  of  rro?[>ect  To\ve!-,  on  the  very  brink  of  the 
Falls,  "I  have  a  great  rr.ind,"  say  thoy,  "to  give  a 
jump;  d»)  you  thiii\'  it  v/ould  hurt  me."  The  rea- 
son of  t!i:.<  disposition  doubtless  is,  they  are  not 
accustomed  to  stand  u;u)nsuch  afriglilful  eminence. 
There  is,  unqiiestivuaMy,  a  determinatiuu  of  blood 
to  the  brail;,  vrhieli  pro'luws  a  partial  derangement. 
Some  arc  of  thrit  nervous  temperament,  constitu- 
tionally formcvl,  that  they  become  dizzy  in  looking 
dovrn  from  abnost  any  height,  thougli  at  other 
times  thoy  iniglit  face  the  cannon's  mouth,  and 
hear  it  thunder,  without  moving  a  muscle,  yet  here 
they  are  afraid. 

These  remarks  are  not  made  to  alarm,  or  in  the 
least  to  detract  from  the  interest  of  the  slrano-er'.i 
visit,  but  to  caution.  The  author,  until  recently,  for 
many  ye^irs  acted  as  a  Guide;  ho  will  relate  an  inci- 
dent, as  exem])lilying  iho  above  remarks:  a  young 
lady  was  standing  upon  Table  Hock,  on  the  very 
verge  of  th(i  precipice,  the  viiud  at  the  time  blowing 

F 


J 


i'4 


1151 


"* '  'I 


IT 


KVKUY    MAM    lUS    OWN    GUIDE. 


)■; 


M 


strong  from  llie  Canail.'i  slioro;  slio  appcaiJed 
amazoil,  bcwiklercd,  and  lust  amid  tliis  overwlielm- 
ing,  enchanting  sceno.  Madam,  said  I,  arc  you  not 
unuecess^irlly  ox]>osing  youisclf  ?  AVliilo  laying  my 
Land  slightly  u])on  hor  shoulder,  Oh !  she  replied 
VAith  a  sniilo,  I  could  juniji  ofi'  here,  and  sail  away 
like  a  balloon,  v.itlioul  inji'.ry;  and  with  much  en- 
treaty, she  was  ])revailed  upon  at  length  to  leave 
this  dangerous  spot.  'ihe  observed  afterward  to 
Ler  mother,  who  very  pleasantly  reprimanded  her 
for  this  daring  freak,  I  did  not  feel  the  least  fear, 
or  dread,  and  was  not  aware  that  I  was  in  any  dan- 
ger; "  I  thought  I  could  fiv."  In  many  other  in- 
Btances,  I  have  observed  in  some  strangers  the  sanw 
disposition;  regardless  of  fear  or  danger,  or  the  ad- 
rice  of  friends  they  often  feel  disposed,  they  say,  to 
try  the  fearful  le;i]>;  we  know  these  are  facts,  and 
leave  tlie  subject  for  writers  on  mental  philosophy 
to  enlarge  upon,  and  assign  the  cause. 

Thousands,  in  the  summer  season,  when  the 
t^realher  is  fair,  promenade  through  the  Island  a 
night —  It  is  a  delightsome  treat.  The  carriage-road 
is  iSne,  the  dark  forest,  in  all  its  native  grandeur,  ia 
around  them,  not  a  breath  moves  the  surrounding 
fohage,  the  moon  pouring  a  flood  of  mellow  light 
tibough  the  openingii  of  tho  trees,  the  Rileuce  of 


LUN'Au  row. 


80 


death  ia  only  iutuiruiited  by  Niagar.i's  ceaseless 
roar,  riilin<^  the  mind  with  oniolioas  of  awe,  grand- 
eur, and  sublimity,  ^vhich  it  is  perfecUy  impof^dibla 
to  describe.  It  must  bo  viewed  befuie  it  can  bo 
appreciated. 

Can  only  bo  seen  about  once  a  month,  or  when 
tlic  moon  is  within  two  or  three  days  previous  or 
after  its  full.  Tlie  re;iaon  is,  there  is  not  light 
enough  to  iorm  tho  Dow.  The  best  points  to  view 
tliis  grand  spectacle  are,  at  the  foot  of  Goat  Lslanl, 
on  Luna  Island,  and  Prospect  Tower.  If  tho  slxy  ia 
clear,  tho  wiird  right,  and  the  atmosphere  favorable, 
an  entire  arch  c;m  bo  seen.  The  author  has  fro- 
qucntly  seen  a  wdiole  arch,  with  three  C(_>l')rs  very 
distinct,  and  wo  are  inclined  to  beliovo,  as  far  as  wo 
can  learn  from  travelers,  this  is  tho  only  place  vn 
tlio  iilobo,  where  a  rainbow  at  niicht,  in  the  Honn 
of  an  arch,  can  bo  seen  at  alJ.  It  is  indescribably 
gfraud,  worthy  tho  attention  of  the  tourist,  and  will 
amply  pay  liim  for  a  trip  to  tlio  Island,  to  behold. 
"  Thdu  hast  told  mo  right,"  said  a  party  of  Qua- 
kers, from  Philadelphiji,  to  tho  author,  "  this  sight 
alone,  is  suhicient  to  pay  us  for  a  journey  to  the 
Falls."  The  mind  takes  a  wild  and  sublimo  range, 
but  [{£,  emotions  cannot  be  05i)res£>od« 


i; 


In 


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CHAPTER  II. 

Ji  loiii*  io  C:ii|.>\i  hij  ^jqij  of  i():  Ijitij. 

If  t]i'j  visitor  is  jit  llio  Cataract  House,  tako  the 
fiivt  left  Land  street,  thoi'  turn  to  tlio  right  at  the  old 
Curiosity  Shop.  If  .".t  tlio  Falls  Hotel,  pass  the  Ihif- 
f'h  and  Is  iai;-;ira  Falls  railroad  de])ot,  iiicliuo  to  the 
r!':::ht.  It'  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel  or  the  Nian^ara 
House,  pa'i.s  up  Aln'ri  street,  pa.-s  the  depot  a.s  above, 
iuil  three  or  l'v,)ur  iniiuil.es  wtdk  Lrlnirs  you  throuirh 
a  ple^asaiit  grove  to  the  Ferry. 

J  c  i*  I'  [I  --  3  i'o  c  if*  I  c  f]  i)  f-i  i  D  c . 

TliG  Ferry  Iloure  in  ^vithin  ciL:;ht  rods  of  tho 
American  Fall.  Cara  lead  down  tho  l;ank  to  the 
^vater's  cdg'^,  on  an  inclined  plane  of  thirty-one  de- 
grees, ">,vorked  by  water-power.  Distance,  tweiity- 
two  an^l  a  Iialf  rods,  or  two  liundred  and  ninety 
rf^}ps.  Tlio  usual  time  in  descending  and  crossing 
tho  river  to  the  Cana.da  shore,  is  about  ten  minutea 
"This  Ferry,"  says  Judge  Porter,  the  proprietor, 
"has  been  in  operation  more  than  forty  year;;  >i,A 
durinn;  all  that  time  not  a  ;;in(;'le  life  has  b^^im  Icr-l 
or  a  serious  ac-cident  occurred" 

And  this,  perhaps,  h  vootq  than  can  be  said  of 


FEKUY — AMEKICAN    SIDE. 


41 


any  olhor  ferry  in  tlio  United  St'itcs,     Tlio  boats 
vliicli  jily  back  and  forth  almost  every  iiioniont  in 
Uio  day,  wLon  soon  from  tho  liigb  bank,  apiiear,  jw 
tliey  danco  upon   tbo  agitated  ^vavos,  exceedingly 
diuiimitivc  and  insecure;  yet  tiicy  ^vill  f^afcly  carry 
Lliirty  i)Ci'sons.     At  the  foot  of  tho  sUiirs,  or  "vvliero 
tho  cars  stop,  if  there  is  httlo  or  no  ^vind,  or  if  it  is 
blowing 'up  tho  river,  let  Iiim  turn  short  round  to 
the  left     IIo  can  approach  ^^ithin  a  ^k^w  fe(.'t  of  tho 
American    Fall,   ■svithout    iuconvcnienco   from   tho 
FI)ray.     It  is,  in  tho  opinion  of  tho  Avriter,  one  of  the 
most  gr.'uid    and   sublime  ^•^e^v8  on  the  American 
fiide.     At  no  other  j)oint  do  Ave  got  as  correct  an 
impression  as  to  the  height  of  the  American  Fall 
The  reason  is,  we  ai'o  below,  nearer  the  falling  sheet, 
and  are  looking  up.     This  remark  holds  good  every- 
where; if  we  would  get  a  correct  idea  of  heighl-s, 
we  must  be  below  and  look  u]). —  (Questions  by  the 
visitor  while  crossinix  tho  river:    How  hi;"-!!  is  tlio 
American  Fall?     A.   One  lumdrcd  and  sixtv-four 
feet,  perpendicular.     Q.  Do  thoy  ^o  under  that  fall  ? 
A.  Never;  an  attempt  was  made  a  few  years  since, 
but  it  was  abandoned  as  a  Ijoj)eless  cfl'vjrt.     Q.  How 
deep  is   the  river?     A.  In  tho  center  it   averages 
two  hundred  fifty  feet,  fjr  a  ?,nile  up  and  a^^wn. 
Q.  What  is  tho  cause  of  this  dark,  green  color! 
A.  This   h:us   never  been   satisfactorily   expkiii^ed; 
some  think  it  is  in  the  foliage,  but  this  must  be  a 


P. 


■!IH^ 


42 


EVERT    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


U"' 


mij>t-iko;  llio  snnio  nppocnranco  is  seen  in  tlio  winter 
as  well  as  in  the  sinniner.  Tlio  most  jirubuldo  rear- 
aon  npjH'.'irs  to  tlio  "writer  to  bo  its  tlopth,  A\*o 
would  willingly  cxcliannro  this  o|»ini(>n  f(,)r  a  Letter, 
whenever  it  can  bo  ukuIo  to  .'i]ij)tar  it  is  erroneoiist 
Charges  for  cro'ssiiig  tho  ferry,  including  tlio  Gal's, 
Is  cigbtecn  (UkI  three-* j[U.irtcrs  eenLs. 

Ilcro  tlio  visitor  will  bo  annoyed  by  all  that  coni<&- 
leas  jargon  of  runners  and  solicitors,  so  usual  in  iill 
tho  great  thoroughf:uvs  of  this  country.  There  is  a 
good  carriage-road  up  tho  bank,  and  if  tho  visltoi 
feels  disposed,  he  can  walk  at  his  leisure,  and  thus 
have  moro  timo  to  contemplate  an<l  a]>])reciato  this 
wondei-ful  r^oeno.  If  ho  jirefeif?  riding,  ho  can  get  a 
good  carriage,  witii  careful  diivers,  to  take  liiin  to 
Tablo  Rock,  generally  for  twelve  and  a  half  cciit.'t 
It  would  bo  advisable  to  mako  a  bargain  before  y»ya 
st.ii-f,  as  tho  drivers  will  sometimes  tell  you  they  will 
cnrry  you  for  a  shilling,  meaning  Canada  cuiTcncy. 
One  shiliin<x  of  that  money  is  twentv-two  cents  on 
fJiis  sido.  Prlco  of  carriao^es  bv  tho  hour,  for  tlie 
party,  on  that  side,  is  usually  seventy-fivo  cents. 

Gi  Iff  Oil  ifoi[3e. 

This  is  a  largo  hotel  on  the  Canada  side,  at  the 
top  of  tha  hilJ,  as  you  descend  tho  bank.     Great 


yi'oEuu. 


43 


ex]-H^nso  hy  LUo  cr.t('r{)rl.->in^'  propilcior  iias  rf;ecntly 
Lfcn  laid  ouL  in  UiKlilioiu  U)  tlio  balMiiig,  |)l<':kiuie« 
ganleii,  and  rosid-'iicos  for  i>iivato  f;imili(\s.  Jt  i:or- 
tiii'.lv  is  un  cxcH'Ilout  lueation,  comniaii«Iiii<'  a  \IcW 
of  tlio  Atnoricjui  and  ili)r.iC5  Slioj  JAuJ.  K'l'^hiy 
i\»ds  below,  on  tli'j  o>l<^o  of  tlio  kwik,  is  VicUiri* 
Point.  Dirorlly  opposite  the  Clifton  Houhc,  the 
othor  sido  of  the  street,  i.s  Mr.  lloUoway's,  oui*  of  the 
must  cuilehrated  arti.sta  in  thid  coiiuLry.  lie  spends 
his  tinio  ip.  p.-iiiitinj^  views  of  tlio  FalU  'jeverid 
fiinall  shopi'i  on  tlie  road-side  where  Iiidian  work  and 
refrCiJiuientd  arc  sold. 


Mi' 


m 


X[)i  Tilnseiii.} 

Is  near  Talile  ilock.  The  galleries  are  arranpjed 
80  as  to  represent  an  entire  forest  scene,  aii^l  eon- 
tain  upward  of  ti'n  thousand  intore.sting  specimens. 
Birds,  Amimals,  Fish,  Minerals,  &c^  a  fjreat  vari- 
ety of  which  were  collected  in  the  inuuediate  vicin- 
ity. Chartjiie  for  admittance,  is  25  centa.  'J'liia 
includes  the  Camera  Ohseura,  Buflalocs,  S:c.  About 
twenty  rods  below  the  Museum,  is  the  point  where 
Miss  Martha  K.  Kui;:;  fell  over  the  bank,  one  hun- 
dred  anJ  fifty  feet  perpendicular.  (See  Casualties.) 
The  next  grand,  and  all  absorbing  point  of  interest, 
»s  Table  block. 


r% 


m 


m 


m 


1-1  'li 


44 


EVERT   M-\N   mS   OWN   GUIDE. 


:i 


i 


Is  on  the  Canada  si  Jo,  connected  vritU  tlie  great 
Horso  Shoe  Falls,  and  tlie  terminus  of  tlio  carriago- 
j'oad  in  this  direction.  It  was  formerly  aLout  fiftoea 
rods  long,  and  tlireo  wide,  and  projects  over  tlie 
precipicG  from  fifiy  to  sixty  feet.  Thousands  of 
the  mobt  timid  have  stood  upon  this  giddy  emi- 
nence with  perfect  safety,  and  gazed  upon  the  ro 
Bpleudent  grandeur  of  this  enchanting,  liewilderiu^ 
scene.  While  contemplating  it,  tho  mind  is  lost 
and  sinks  back  upon  itself,  amid  the  immensity  of 
God's  works.  And  wo  hazard  not  too  much  in  say 
ing,  there  is  nothing  on  the  globe  that  compares 
with  this  vie'./,  in  point  of  sublimity  and  interest 
*'  I  have,"  said  a  sea  captain  to  the  writer,  who  had 
followed  the  ocean  for  forty  years,  "  seen  tho  Mael- 
strom, the  Burning  Mountains,  and  all  tho  wonders 
of  tho  globe,  but  this  is  tho  most  sublimely  inter- 
esting of  all."  Two  la? go  portions  of  Table  Rock 
Lave  fallen  within  a  few  years,  but  have  detracted 
but  little  from  this  grand  view.  Directly  ia  rear, 
is  the  Prospecu  House,  on  tho  top  of  which  is  a 
Camera  Obscura,  and  a  splendid  view  of  tho  Horso 
Shoe,  and  the  Rapids.  The  charge  for  seeing  tha 
Camera,  is  12  1-2  cents. 


w 


The  emotions  excited  while  passing  under  the 


COURAGB    OF   LADIES. 


4ft 


If  aat  slieet,  are  exceodiiigly  varlabl«.  IL  is  atkiW- 
u  jible,  perhaps,  to  our  state  of  LerJtli,  pliysieal  cour- 
Bi^e,  or  nervous  temperament.  Some  ha\  e  a  ^ood 
deal  of  adventure  in  their  constitutions  —  bekl,  fear- 
less and  determined :  as  the  interest  of  the  scene 
increases,  difficulties  vanish.  Otliers  are  ixiore  timid 
and  fearful,  but  equally  resolute.  And  as  far  as 
the  writer  caL  judge  from  the  countenances  and  ex- 
pressions of  those  who  have  accompanied  him,  the 
feelings  that  involuntarily  arise,  are  those  of  relig- 
ious awe.  We  may  have  been  schooled  in  infidelit}^, 
and  tauoflit  to  believe  there  is  no  God;  but  durinnr 
our  stay  at  the  Falk,  and  especially  under  Jheni, 
lot  the  individual  bo  «n  Atheist,  if  ho  can.  (Im- 
possible.) On  returning,  about  fifty  feet  from  tli© 
bottom  of  the  stairs,  lot  the  visitor  pause  fur  a  mo- 
ment, and  look  up.  "  I  did  not,"  said  a  lady  to  the 
author,  in  company  with  her  husband,  from  South 
Carolina,  "  fe**!  the  least  agitated  while  under  the 
falling  flood ;  but  at  this  point  I  trembled  ;  not  from 
any  real  or  apparent  danger;  but  my  nerves,  for  a 
moment,  seemed  to  give  way."  She  soon  regainel 
her  composure.  "  That  Bcenc,"  continued  she,  "  is 
worth  a  journey  across  the  globe." 

£jO\\\-^2t>   of   Jj|Oi?«. 

"Do  ladies  ever  go  under  the  "^alls?  "  is  a  quee- 

tiou  frequently  proposed.     Certainly,  thousands  — 
o 


46 


EVERT   MAN    HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


k 

VI 

:.  1' 
I- 

A:,     , 


y 


N1i 


a 


1| 

4- 


and  tlicir  numbers  are  nearly  equal  to  those  of  tLe 
gentlemen,  and  their  courage  often  surpasses  them 
No  accident  has  ever  occurred,  unless  from  careless- 
ness, or  the  iincallod-for  adventure  of  some  thought- 
less traveler,  in  rushing  out  upon  places  where  hu- 
man beings  never  ought  to  go.  There  is  an  iron 
driven  into  the  side  of  the  rock,  at  the  termination 
of  the  path.  Visitors  usually  lay  tlieir  hands  upon 
this  iron.  At  this  point  you  can  see  all  that  can  be 
seen,  with  perfect  safety.  Two  or  three  feet  beyond 
this,  your  path  is  intercepted  by  a  perpendicular 
rock,  which  rises  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  from 
the  ajigry  flood  l)elow.  This  is  called  "  Termination 
Kock."  As  much  as  to  say,  "  you  can  approach 
me,  with  safety;  but,  beyond,  you  cannot  go  —  here 
let  thy  proud  steps  be  stayed."  Some  clamber 
down  this  rock  to  tlie  water's  edge ;  but  this  is  un- 
called-for, as  all  the  wildness  of  tliis  magnificent 
place  is  seen  without  running  the  least  risk. 

If  the  visitor  has  time,  and  feels  disposed,  the 
next  object  of  interest  is  the  Burning  Sprino-  —  a 
ood  carriage-road,  and  a  delightful  ride. 

This  Spring  is  situated  two  miles  above  the  Falls, 
on  the  Canada  side,  near  the  water's  edce.  It  is 
the  carbonated  sulphuretted  liydrogen  gqs,  thut 
burns.     Touched  with  a  match  it  gives  out  a  b:  illiant 


i|   ail. I  «i|iii.«Dim 


o 
h 

u 

la 

o 
1^ 
M 

pq 

o 
ft 

1^ 

W 
o 

W 

N 

O 


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"tit 

li 


m 


I     I 


—  ■iiitiiy »  III!  ini«ww!ip»^ip«^ip»"""^»>-"  PM  I  f 


■;t 


i^l 


' 


■'*, 


%--i 


CHIPPEWA  —  LUNDY  S   LANE. 


47 


flame  rising  two  or  three  feet  higl).  Many  are 
very  much  interested,  and  to  those  who  have  never 
seeu  any  thing  of  the  kind,  it  is  an  object  of  a  good 
deal  of  interest.     Charges,  12  1-2  cents. 

The  villajvc  of  Chippewa  is  on  the  British  side, 
two  and  a  half  miles  above  the  Falls.  A  few  sol- 
diers* have  been  stationed  here  since  the  Patriot 
War  of  '37  — '38.  Landing  of  the  British  steamer 
Emerald,  from  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  The  terminus  of 
the  railroad  from  Queenston,  connected  with  the 
British  and  American  steamers  for  Toronto,  Kings- 
ton, Montreal,  and  Quebf  A  steamer  plies  daily 
from  Chipi^ewa  to  Butl'alo. 

Lundy's  Lane,  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the 
Falls,  on  the  Canada  side.  The  battle,  in  its  hot- 
test fury,  was  fought  priiicipally  in  the  night,  with 
the  bayonet;  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter  commanding  the 
volunteers  —  Generals  Brown  and  Scott  wounded, 
Ryal  and  Drummond,  (British  generals,)  wounded 
and  taken  prisoners.  This,  it  is  said,  was  the  se- 
verest battle  ever  fought  on  this  continent.  British 
had,  in  killed  and  wounded,  877.     Americans,  860. 


•;« 


<M 


■I 


4 


i  ':• 


.  m 


t  I  i 


•  They  have  since  been  removed  to  Toronto,  C.  W 


^m 


! 


11  !i: 


I, 


48  EVERT   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 

It  was  a  drawn  game  —  both  parties  claiming  tha 
victx)ry.     July  25,  1814. 

The  above  wjis  taken  from  General  Brown's  ofli- 
cial  report  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  For  a  desci-ip- 
tion  of  Drummondville,  where  tliis  battle  was  fouglit, 
see  largo  niaj)  by  the  author,  accompanying  this 
work.  This  is  sometimes  blended  Tvith  the  Chtp- 
pewa  battle,  but  it  is  a  mistake;  (Jhij»pewa  battle 
was  fought  near  tho  Burning  Spring.  July  6, 
1814. 

If  the  visitor  ascends  to  the  top  of  a  high  Pa- 
goda, on  the  battle-ground,  ho  gets  an  excellent 
view  of  tho  surrounding  country.  Charges  aro 
from  12  1-2  to  25  cents.  The  visitor  can  return  to 
tho  Clifton  House,  and  cross  at  the  Ferry.  Charge 
for  crossing  to  the  American  shore,  is  12  1-2  cents; 
if  he  rides  up  on  the  Cai-s,  6  1-4  cents  more;  or, 
he  can  continue  his  route  to  the  Suspension  Bridge, 
cross,  and  return  to  his  Hotel  on  this  side.  (See 
Chapter  3.) 

From  the  water's  edge,  to  the  Clifton  House, lOG  roda 

From  tho  Clii'ton  House  to  Tahle  Rock, 220    * 

From  Tahle  Rock  to  Lundy's  Lane  Eattle- 

Ground, l}£  xniles; 

To  the  Ruraing  Spring, ^}-^      " 

To  Chipjjewa, 3         ■ 


( 


FALL   OF   TABLE    ROCK.  49 

To  the  Whirlpool, 4j.<  niilna 

To  Brock's  Aloniuuent, 1}.^      " 

NumLer  of  Spiral  Stcpts  near  Table  Rock, 87 

Iqll    of    Iqbie    V\Oil\, 
On  the' 2Glh  of  Juno,  1850,  our  citizens  were 
st'utleJ  M  itli  the  report,  tliat  Table  Rock  liad  fallen. 
Many  of  us  instantly  repaired  to  the  place,  to  wit- 
ness, for  ourselves,  an  event  wo  liad  long-  expected. 
What  a  chasm  I     AVliat  a  tremendous  crash !     Tlio 
rocks  lieaved,  tlio  earth  trembled  for  a  moment,  aa 
if  collectinnj  her  miirhtv  enerixies  to  heave  from  her 
bosom  this  cumbersome  load,  niid  hurl  it,  in  Ppito 
of  all  resisting  power,  into  'he  dark,  yawning  abyss 
below,  which,  like  an  enraged  monster  of  the  deep, 
devoured  all  at  once,  and  whose  voracious  jaws  are 
widtjly  distended  for   another  meal.     Nearly  half 
an  acre,  200  feet   long,  00  wide,  and  100  thick, 
foil  into  the  river,  and  almost  every  partiple  disa^> 
peared   from  sight.     The  noise  produced    by  thia 
fallen  rock,  was  somediing  like  the  rumbling  of  an 
earthquake.      It  was  heard  four  or  five  miles  on 
each  side  of   the  river.     There  was  some  fifteeji 
minutes  pause,  the  earth  was  aginn  in  motion,  and 
then   another   crash.     The   ponderous  load   rolled 
with  the  velocity  of  lightning,  and  sunk  ftxr  down 
into  the  deep  below.     Fortunately,  no  lives  were 
lost,  though  some  forty  or  fifty  persons  were  stand- 
ing upon  the  rock  but  a  few  moments  before.    A 
I 


W 


T 


60 


EVERT   MAN    III3    OWN    GUIDB. 


J I 

m 


-i; 


f'  it 


Ml 


Dlind  man,  ^vllo  sells  views  of  difTereut  cities  and 
the  Falls,  felt  tlio  rock  begin  to  move,  and  succeeded 
in  reacliing  a  place  of  safet'.,  just  in  time  to  escajx) 
tliis  lieadlono^  phuigo. 

An  omnibus  Avas  placed  upon  tliG  rock  for  tha 
pmposo  of  washing  it  —  two  persons  were  inside  — 
they  jumped  for  life,  and  were  saved.     The  horses 
were  taken  off  to  feed.     It  went  over,  and  n(;t  a 
fragment  was  ever  seen.     A  gentleman  and  lady 
were  below;  several  tons  fell  in  the  path,  directly 
before  them;  tlioy  lia.stenod  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
and  the  whole  wunt  oil"  at  ouco.     In  1818,  a  por- 
tion of  Table  Hock  fell     In  182S,  u  large  mass  fell 
from  the  center  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall.^.     Another 
mass  fell,  connected  with  Table  Rock,  and  extend- 
ing under  the  sheet  of  water  toward  the  point  of 
the  Horse  Shoe,  about  150  feet  long,  50  wide,  and 
100  deep,  carrying  with  it  a  canal  boat,  that  had 
lam  on  the  verge  of  the  Horse  Shoe,  for  months. 
Thus  nature,  not  satisfied  with  wliut  she  had  done, 
moved  on,  silently  but  trium])haDtiy,  (o  destroy  her 
O'siTi  works.     But  the  natural  cause,  the  modus  opo- 
randl  of  these  rocks  falling,  is  the  shale  and  marl 
below.     These,  by  the  action  of  the  spray,  frost,  and 
the  atmosphere,  wear  fostest  at  the  bottom;   and 
■when  they  project  sufficiently  far  to  throw  them  be- 
yond the  perpendicular  lino  of  descent,  they  crack 
.mid  fiill  of  their  own  weight.     Hundreds  of  ittstances 


w  J 


A   FISSURE    IN   TAHLE    ROCK. 


61 


ItO 


about  lIiG  Falls,  strikingfly  cxomi^lify  tlicso  reniarlcs. 
There  is  one  on  tlio  American  Fall,  near  tlie  shore. 
Another  is  seen  from  Luna  Island,  extendin':^  in  a 
fissure  toward  the  center  of  the  American  Fall;  and 
a  third  is  noticed  a  few  rods  from  tho  Tower  toward 
the  center  of  Horse  Shoo. 

This  commences  near  the  Stairs,  leading  back 
from  the  edge  about  three  or  four  rods,  and  varying 
in  width  from  three  to  fifteen  inches.  It  is  about 
iTo  feet  long,  and  80  deep,  and  is  seen  and  pointed 
out  bv  almost  every  traveler  who  visited  Tablo 
Rock.  That  portion  which  remains  }>oises,  a[»[)a- 
rently,  upon  a  mere  point,  and  is  as  destined  to  fall, 
as  these  waters  are  to  roll,  and  it  may  go  before 
night;  but  how  long  it  will  last,  no  mortal,  this  side 
of  the  other  world,  can  tell.  The  citizens  on  that 
side  have  often  threatened  to  put  a  blast  into  this 
ci'evice,  and  blow  the  whole  off  together,  wliicli 
might  easily  be  done.  The  visitor  will  be  urgently 
importuned  to  go  under  the  sheet  of  water  by  run 
ners  who  are  eniplo}  ed  for  the  purpose,  and  if  he 
wishes  to  do  so  he  v»ill  judge  of  its  safety,  for  hint- 
self,  after  taking  the  above  facia  into  consideration. 
Dresses  and  a  guide  will  be  furnished  at  either  of 
the  Houses,  at  an  expense  generally  of  50  cents. 
There  are  not  tw  manj  who  go  under  the  sjieet  of 


V    |i 


•^S 


t< 


It! 


1 

t'  1 
i  1 

i 

i 


62 


It  VERY   MAN    ni9    OWN    Gl'IDE. 


water  since,  as  before  the  rock  fell.  My  own  opin- 
ion is,  it  is  not  safe.  Formerly,  wlior.  tlio  writer 
acted  as  a  ijuiile,  lie  liad  aceoin[»ani(j<l  parties  un- 
der the  fallinnr  Hood  more  than  a  liundred  titnes  at 
different  periods;  but  no  inducement  could  prevail 
upon  him  to  go  there  now,  though  perhaps  he  has 
as  much  nerve  as  most  men,  yet  in  his  opinion  the 
risk  is  too  great,  to  effect  so  little.  It  is  true  there 
is  an  indescribable  something  in  some  persons,  per- 
haps the  name  of  being  under  Niagara,  which  gives 
this  impulsive  desire;  but  when  the  novelty  has 
pas-^ed,  this  anxiety  has  passed  with  it,  .in<l  the 
writer  lias  never  known  the  '  :rson  who  wished  to 
return  there  tlie  second  tiiL.i.  There  may  be  excep- 
tions, but  they  have  not  come  to  his  knowleilixe. 

While  on  the  subject  of  falling  rocks,  it  may  bo 
proper  to  remark,  that  rocks  wliich  lay  so  thiek  bo 
low  tlie  American  Fall,  have  unipiestionably  all 
rolled,  at  some  ^■)eriod,  from  the  high  bank.  This 
remark,  in  the  opinion  of  Professor  Lyell,  and  oth,?r 
geologists,  liolds  good  in  every  pl.i-e,  where  largo 
rocks  are  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the  Falls.  In  1  S  i  *5, 
a  rock  fell  just  above  the  Museum,  (Canada  siile,) 
100  feet  long,  40  wide,  and  GO  thiek.  The  same 
year  a  large  rock,  weigliing  several  hundred  t(Mis, 
fell  near  Biddle  Stairs,  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  Isl- 
and, carrying  with  it,  in  its  fall,  a  part  of  the  roof 
of  the  Stairs.      In   1818,  immense   quantities  of 


A    FISSURE    IN    TADLE    ROCK. 


63 


rock  fell  botwecn  Biddle  Stairs  and  the  Horso  Slioe 
Fall,  blocking  up  the  ])ath  and  rendering  it  dilficult 
to  rot  to  the  water's  edge.  Wo  Lave  time  to  men- 
tion but  cue  instance  more. 

Sunday  afternoon,  Feb.  2d.  1852,  a  portion  of 
the  precipice,  near  the  tower,  on  the  South  side  of 
Goat  Island,  fell  with  a  miglity  crash.  This  portion 
extended  from  the  edge  of  the  island  toward  the 
tower,  being  about  125  feet  long,  and  about  GO  feet 
wide,  of  a  somewhat  elliptical  shape,  and  reaching 
from  the  top  to  near  the  bottom  of  the  fall.  The 
next  day,  another  piece,  triangular,  with  a  base  of 
about  forty  feet,  broke  off  just  below  the  tower. 
But  the  next  great  performance  was  the  most  re- 
markable. Between  the  two  portions  that  had  pre- 
viously fallen,  stood  a  rectiingular  projection,  about 
thirty  feet  long,  and  fifteen  feet  wide,  extending  from 
top  to  bottom  of  the  precipice.  This  immense  miuss 
became  loosened  from  the  main  body  of  rock,  and 
settled  perpendicularly  about  eight  feet,  where  it 
now  stands,  an  enormous  column,  two  hundred  feet 
high,  by  the  dimensions  above.  The  severity  of  the 
winter,  and  the  long  continuance  of  the  intense  cold, 
have  doubtless  produced  these  results.  They  are 
splendid  exhibitions  of  the  power  of  frost,  in  releas- 
ing this  mass  of  rock  from  its  kindred  stratum.  It 
held  it  within  its  cold  embrace  for  a  moment,  then 
luirled  it,  with  the  might  of  a  giant,  into  the  chasm 


I -J 


61 


nvCIlV    MAN    niS    (MVN    CI'II'F. 


i 


1: 


Hi' 


S*   ' 


bolow.  And  llicy  stvikiip/ly  (.'xcir.i.liiy  tLo  ioa.lt^oi) 
of  rroft'ssur  Lvoll,  in  rdl'ronco  to  the  recession  of 
tlio  Falls,  Avliich  is  louiul  on  another  pr-go. 

5)i(H)ir|cj  of  li)ij  Gql'olIi]C. 

If  a  filiin  on  firo  at  f^on,  at  night,  in  a  tlinndor- 
stovm,  ift  gnnul  and  terrific,  no  h^ss  so  'sv.'ts  tho  st-'nrn- 
boat  Caroline  in  flriinos,  as  sho  "w.'W  loosed  from  her 
moorings  at  tho  old  landing,  near  Fort  Sohlowsor,  and 
tcsvcd  out  into  tho  middle  of  tho  river,  l»y  the  com- 
mand of  Col.  McNahh,  a  I^riliph  ofllcor.     ITore  sho 
\Yas  ahandoned  and  left  to  her  fate.     The  night  uas 
intensely  dark.     Sho  moved  Bte.ulily  on — a  hroad 
sheet  of  lurid  flanio  shot  high  into  the  heavens,  illu- 
ming thovostorn  clouds  with  its  rod  glare  —  rockets 
were  a'^eonding  from  tho  Canada  shore,  exprcrsivo 
of  the  success  of  tho  expedition.     A  universal  shout 
ring's  out  upon  the  niglit  air,  from  the  pai-t}'  ■wh.o  havo 
just  left  tho  doomed  boat.     She  enters  tlie  r:ipids  at 
tJic  head  of  Goat  L^land,  nearci't  tho  Canada  sliore, 
careens  ovei-,  rights,  and  ]iaspe.s  on  like  a  fiaming 
meteor,  to  her  final  doom.     Sti'ikes  n])OTi  Cull  isl- 
and ;  swings  around,  aM-fnlly  shattered  by  the  Ci  n- 
tlict,  the  flame"  rolling  on  f  >r  a  moment,  not  al'irmc  d. 
l)y  Niagara's  roar,  but  as  if  detoiTnined  not  to  bo 
encircled  v'thin  its  cold  embrace,  or  bo  h'^'it^'u  hv 
its  mighty  and  terrific  povrer.     The  war  of  tlu?  ele- 
ments continues  for  an  instant  —  tho  Caroline  liaa 


DOUNDAUr    LINK. 


W 


disrippc.irci], leaving  "not  a  wrcclc  bcliIn(];"anJ  Ni- 
nc^.im  is  victor,  procLiiiiiiiig  to  tlio  vorld  thiit  its 
jxAVor  i.s  not  lessened  l»y  tlio  stiifo  of  men,  or  any 
cu'wiii]  ilo.'itiiic^  suLstniico  ii['on  its  bosom.  Vory  few, 
Lowever,  beheld  this  fijnuid  speetnelc,  na  it  v/as  in 
tlio  ii'i^'ht,  and  motjt  of  tiio  iiihabit;iutii  had  retired 
from  tile  frontiers.  It  U  liot  our  purposo,  at  this 
time,  to  enter  into  the  ininu[i;c  of  this  aO'alr;  sullico 
it,  the  boat  w:ls  charged  by  tho  liritisli  Avith  aiillng 
the  refugees  by  cairyitig  jtrovisions  and  anna  to  Navy 
Lslan'l,  which  doubtless  was  true.  Tliis  specification 
w;usbr. night  before  tho  court  by  tho  Ihitish  con?ul  rX 
tJio  trial  of  MeLerjd  for  the  iinirder  of  a  gt'ntleman 
from  Buiialo  who  was  shot  on  boai'd  tho  Ciu'olino. 
It  will  be  rccolleeted  MeLeod  was  a<^]niiteiL 

The  fragments  of  the  boat  that  lotlged  on  (»ull 
T.-land  remained  tliero  initil  tho  next  s[iring.  V»'luit 
wjLi  left  of  her  afler  passing  llio  rapids,  went  over 
tlio  point  of  tho  TIoi-so  Shoo  lall.  No  pei'son,  v/o 
bclifive,  -wius  on  bo.u-d.     I^eeember  29,  1831/'. 

As  agreed  upon  by  the  Comnn'ssion(>rs,  (fton.  P. 
'  Vi.  Porter  was  onn,  on  lu-lialf  of  the  U.  S.  govcrn- 
'^UiGut,)  is  in  tho  center  of  tho  river,  or  (leepe.st  elian- 
helj  pas.sing  through  tho  point  of  tho  Horso  Shoo, 
thVorjh  tlie  center  of  Lal.o  Erie,  Lako  Superior, 
and  }^  ^n  to  the  northovn  boundiu-ies  of  the  UnitL-J 
Btatcs. 


t. 


56 


ET^KT   MAN   HIS   OWN    GUIDB. 


ili 


u 


I 


■,  t'' 


'  ■ 


'if 


lliis  boat  was  attached  to  a  rale  of  sjuv-Iogs,  and 
used  for  cookinor  and  as  a  lodffinij-rooni  for  tlie 
liands ;  but  wbile  attempting  to  tow  this  nift  up  the 
river  from  Chippewa,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  it 
on  tlie  American  siilo,  the  rope  broke,  and  the  logs 
went  over ;  but  the  boat  was  carried,  by  the  force  of 
the  current,  on  to  a  rock,  the  lower  side  nearly  out 
of  water.  It  remained  so\eial  months,  but  when 
the  last  poilion  of  Table  Rock  fell,  it  went  over. 

loH   §cl)i0S3Cl' 

la  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Falls,  on  the 
American  side.  It  is  memorable  for  its  antiquity, 
and  associations  of  the  British  and  French,  each 
holding    Iternately  the  possession  as  early  as  1775. 

Scarcely  a  vastige  of  the  ruins  marks  the  place 
"where  it  once  stood.     It  is  not  visited  by  travelers, 

IpSUi)  OffeHpg  fo  f()e  Ij^IIs. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1851,  the  writer  accom- 
panied a  party  of  Indians  from  the  northwest  wilds 
of  Minesota,  (on  their  way  to  Washington,)  to  the 
foot  of  the  American  Falls.  The  wind  was  favor- 
able, and  we  approached  within  a  few  feet  of  tha 
falling  sheet  They  gazed  in  rapt  wonder  on  the 
mighty  flood,  as  it  rolled  its  angry  waters,  r^d  fall 
upon  the  resounding  rock*  below     For  a  loug  time, 


INDIAN    OFFERING    TO    THE    FALLS. 


57 


V'.ivy  si  nscle  of  tlnMr  countenances  imlicitcd  a 
Wiiglovs  awo,  and  tlicir  tiiouLdits  a}'p(are(l  to  bo 
communing  with  r-ome  superior  power.  At  asign;d 
from  tlioir  cliief,  tlioy  drew  a  fsmall  rod  ]>!po  from 
tlieir  o'irdio,  and  'willi  a  o;reat  deal  of  solomn  ir-^stur- 
ing,  each  tln-cw  his  ]iipo  und^'r  tlio  Falls.  This,  I 
was  told  hy  the  interpreter,  wa>  a  religious  offcj'ing 
to  the  Great  Spirit,  that  he  would  be  pro}iitious  to 
them,  on  their  journey,  and  return  thorn  in  safety 
to  their  homes.  Was  this  superstition,  or  was  it 
true  devoti(^n  ?  "We  thon  conduct(^d  tliem  to  tho 
Tower,  on  the  west  side  of  (xoid  Island.  Tliey 
were  induced,  by  some  ladies  and  gentlemen  present, 
to  give  their  views  of  what  they  saw.  They  did  so, 
in  the  followinrj  words,  ?is  far  i\s  their  lan^ruaire  could 
be  interprete  1. 

"Brothers,"  said  tho  chief,  "we  live  in  tlie  woods, 
far  toward  the  setting  sun.  Our  Fathers  once 
owned  these  lands,  and  this  river;  they  have  told 
us  of  tliese  Falh,  but  now  we  see  them.  Brothel's, 
you  are  great,  but  you  cannot  stop  this  water;  you 
cannot  put  your  hand  on  its  mouth  and  make  it 
still.  Yonder,"  pointing  to  tho  clouds,  "is  the  gre^at 
Spirit;  he  male  these,  and  this  is  liisAvork;  and 
yonder,"  pointing  to  tho  rainbow,  (which  at  the 
time  shono  most  brilliantly,)  "we  see  his  face  —  we 
see  him  smile.  We  shall  tell  our  cliildren  what  wo 
have  seen.     Brothers,  our  beaiti  are  glad,  that  we 


1  f 


¥^ 


68 


EVEIir    MAN    HIS    own    GUIDE. 


I 


1 


is.  ■  Ui 


Hi 


ti  ' 


turned  a&ido  from  our  patli,  to  see  tLIs  great  wonder 
BroiLers,  we  tLank  the  uliitcs  for  our  good  treat 
ment."  The  cniotions  of  Hod  Jacket,  the  cele- 
brated Indiiui  Chief,  wliilo  ^•i.siting  tlio  Falls  some 
ycai"s  tdnco,  wero  of  a  very  different  character.  llf> 
admii'ed  tlio  grandeur  vi  nature's  work,  but  not 
witli  that  religious  awo  and  devotional  feeling,  ty 
did  tliosG  wild  untutored  sons  of  the  forest,  men 
tioned  above.  Envy  and  jealousy  rankled  in  his' 
bosom  against  tho  white  man,  the  destroyer  of  hi^ 
nice.  Ho  saw,  at  a  glance,  the  su]>eriority  of  the 
wliitos  over  the  red  man  of  the  woods,  and  ho  haled 
|jim  for  that  ho  Lad  not  tho  power  to  become  his 
equal. 

Is  a  few  rods  to  tho  riMit  of  the  Ferrv  IIouso,  on 
tho  American  side.  This  w:is  the  hust  residence  of 
Francis  Abbot,  tho  Hermit  of  Niajxara.  On  this 
spot,  a  Pa.goda  w^^s  raised,  which  placed  the  specliv 
tor  at  an  elevation  of  more  than  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  cataract,  and  two  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  above  tlie  river;  but  it  ^\i^s  taken  down  about 
two  years  since.  Nevertholess,  the  view  from  this 
point  is  grand  and  imposing.  'J'liG  American  and 
Ho)"se  Shoe;  Goat  Island  with  its  stately  oaks  and 
dark  waving  forest;  the  opposite  iron-bound  shore; 
the  river  below,  with  the  FeiTV  Boats,  dancing  like* 


STA  .-TZAS. 


69 


ttiings  of  life  apon  tho  agitated  waters;  all  rendei 
it  «  place  of  much  attractiveness. 

Aildrpsscil  to  tho  sojourners  at  Niagara  I-'alls,  on  commencing  tbe 
building  of  tho  Pagoili,  Auyfust  11,  IbKJ. 

Thoso  who  Iiavc  rambled  o\'or  tlio  wild  domain, 
And  still  doftiio  to  view  it  once  a^ain. 
Enter  tho  fi;nrdon  where  an  Abbott  dwelt. 
And  roam  whore  he,  enraptured,  c;a7ed  and  hnclt 
Si'ili  even  \rt  those  plaintive  strains  I  hear, 
Ti'Iuch  once  he  wakened —  and  the  pensive  tear 
Steals  softlj  o'er  my  cheelc,  while  tho  full  heart 
Essays  to  know  what  sorrow  wlng;cd  the  dart 
"WHiich  r-e»it  liim  forth  a  wanderer  from  his  home, 
'Mid  tiiesu  majestic  scenes  in  silent  grief  to  roam  I 

Say,  wanderers  1  wmdd  yo  dare  the  wild  excess 
Of  joy  and  wonder  words  can  ne'er  express  ? 
Would  ye  fain  steal  a  glance  o'er  life's  dark  sen. 
And  gaze,  though  trembling,  on  Eternity  ? 
Would  yo  look  out,  look  down  where  Ood  liath  set 
Hia  mighty  signet  1  Come  —  come  liigher  yet, 
And  from  the  unfinished  Btmcturo  gazo  abroad. 
And  wonder  at  the  power  of  God  I 
To  the  Pagoda's  utmost  height  ascend, 
And  sec  earth,  air  and  sky  in  one  alembic  blend  I 

Up  —  though  the  trembling  limb,  and  nerveless  hand, 

Strive  to  detain  thee  on  the  solid  land  ; 

Up  —  though  the  heart  may  fail,  the  eye  grow  dim. 

Soon  will  the  spirit  neiwe  the  quivering  hmh. 

Up  the  mde  ladder !  gain  tho  utmost  verge  — 

Far,  far  below,  behold  the  angry  sorgo  ; 


.  i ' -1' 


«  '•■ 


ii 


60 


EVERY"    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


mi 


':i-n 


! 


iflP 


Btfncatli  \-onr  feet  ^ic  niiiibow'starch  docliues, 
GIcaniiDg  wiih  rii'lior  yomslliiin  Iiidin'.s  luiuejs; 
And  dffp  witliiii  the  gulf,  yot  farther  down, 
'^id  uii.st  and  foam  and  .spray,  bubold  Niagara's  crown. 

Addressed  to  tlie  same  on  coiDiilotini;  the  cdiricf,  October  2.'s  ICli 

*T  is  finislicd,  and  llie  steps  I  now  ascend, 
"Wliilo  jv.'oud  Xiiitrara's  waters  round  nje  bond  ; 
Tho'  nerves  may  trcinblc,  fears  may  fear  alarm, 
Yet  tlic  Pnfjoda  stands  secure  from  harm  : 
And,  while  1  trembling,'  wintl  ils  Iwfty  Jiei^dit, 
I'stop  to  rest  and  rr.pturc  tills  the  sii(lit  — 
The  trembling  limb  gives  place  to  lirmer  step, 
Tile  summits  gained  !  maj:'>tlc  nature  's  met ! 
Ob  rapttirons  trv.ze,  yet  had  I  SIiaksp(!aru's  }>cn, 
1;  would  not  —  couid  not  take  the  prospect  in. 

Wondrous,  sublime,  transcending  all  I  -vc  seen  — 
There's  sonuHliini,'  more  than  languJi^je  can  explain 
Thoisc  sparkHn':^  torrents  froni  those  dizzy  heights, 
Oildc'l  ^^ilh  Sun  bv  dav,  and  Moon  bv  nii'-ht : 
That  WiUery  mist,  that  f>»rms  the  radiant  bow. 
Then  fertilizes  all  tlie  land  below  — 
That  noble  livcr,  studded  thiok  with  green  ; 
Tliose  roaring  I\aj>ids  ru.shing  fiist  between  — 
The  tranquil  Lake  above,  in  foliago  rich  I  view, 
Following  the  scene,  the  Whirlpool  rapids  too  — 
My  eye 's  exhausted  with  the  rapturou3  gaze, 
My  heart's  expanded  giving  God  the  praise. 

The  above  remarks  of  tho  poet,  except  tlioso 


A    6ABBATII    AT    NIAGARA. 


61 


alliifling  to  tlio  Pagoda,  arc  still  applicable  to  the 

place.  TliE    AUTUOIU 

The  followino:  fniirmcnt,  written  in  tlio  Roo-ister 
of  tlio  Point  View  Gai'don,  at  Nia'^ara  Falls,  on 
Sunday,  August  1st,  1847,  bj  Dr.  Baxlev,  <;f  Bal- 
timore, illustrates  tlie  profound  impressions  produced 
on  the  mind  and  lieait  by  this  i:iost  \YonderfuI  work 
of  Nature. 

Here,  near  tlic  temple  of  Alniiglity  God, 

The  soul  wrapp'd  in  luiiuility,  bows  down 

In  awe,  and  reverence.     'T  is  meet  tliat  man, 

T)ie  cn^iture,  bcholdinj*  tlie  b(tld  displays 

Of  pow'r  stupendou.s,  wisdom  inlinite. 

Should  look,  tlirougli  nature's  grandest  witness,  up 

To  nature'3  God.     And  deeming  here  all  time 

A  Sabbath,  yet  on  this  day  appointeAl 

Holy  to  Him  who  rear'd  these  rocky  walls, 

ButtropsM  bi'low  by  tide-waslied  massive  piles, 

Entablatur'd  witli  beetling  baltlemcntf?, 

And  cornic'd  with  a  waving  wilderness 

Of  verdure  —  who  outspread  yon  iizure  roof. 

Now  softly  mellow M  with  ethereal  tint. 

Or  darken 'd  by  the  tliunder's  mu-ssuiiger 

Gilded  anon  by  lig])tning"sgleams  ;  or  now 

Radiant  witli  st.arry  liost.s,  who^e  mirror'd  Iwiama 

Carpet  the  billowy  iloor  with  silv'ry  light  — 

Who  raised  yon  alUir,  and  i!p')n  iLs  brow 

Of  emerald,  in  characL'TS  of  l:i;ht 

Insaib'd,  e'en  witii  his  o'-'iu  vl^'.ii  haad,  "To  God  1  '• 


,'-^i 


4 


mmmm 


62 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


%  I 


^'1; 


"Where  mliiistcrii),!:^  Lirils  with  notes  nttuu'd 

To  an  etcniJil  iiiithcrn,  liyinn  His  praise, 

And  bear  on  dewy  wings  a  jicarly  cloud 

Of  incense  up  toward  the  Alinii^dity's  throne, 

Fit  wors^hipers  in  nature's  hohcst  fane  — 

Who  guards  the  ported  of  this  sacred  place. 

With  ever-heaving  sea  of  snowy  foam, 

Whose  tempest  voice,  to  man  presumptuous,  callfl 

"  Thus,  and  no  farther  shalt  thou  go,"  and  points 

To  ceiiseless  wliirling  tides,  the  awful 

Maelstrom  of  Niagara,  dread  emblem  of 

Th'  eternal  doom  of  man,  v^'n  man,  who  seeks 

To  pass  the  limit  of  assigned  command, 

And  moral  law  — 

E'en  on  this  Sabbath  day, 
Here,  near  God's  own  great  temple,  would  we  bow 
In  humble  praise,  and  prayer ;  and  while  the  lip 
Rests  silent,  would  the  soul  its  homage  give. 
And  favor  seek  ;  petitioning,  that  in 
The  devious  path  of  life,  so  may  we  move, 
That  when  these  rocks  shall  melt  with  fernd  heat;, 
When  the  rich  garniture  of  teeming  earth 
Shall  vanish,  leaving  no  trace  of  brightness 
Or  of  beauty,  to  tell  that  it  once  was  ; 
This  restless  tide  no  longer  flow,  and  its 
Deep  cadence  cease  ;  when  the  blue  dome  that  spani 
The  earth,  shall  pale  away,  and  radiant  spheres 
No  longer  shed  abroad  their  hallow'd  light ; 
Then  may  the  hope,  that  rests  upon  His  word 
Who  ne'er  was  false  to  man,  who  hangs  his  bow 
Upon  the  cloud,  and  spreads  it  night  and  day 
Upon  His  altar's  incense,  token  to  man 
Aliko  of  his  redeeming  power,  and  will; 


TO    NIAGARA. 


68 


Thon  may  the  hope  that  on  His  word  relies, 
Nurtur'd  by  love,  and  rectitude*,  grt)W  strong 
In  trust,  and  prescience  of  a  home  "  not  mado 
With  hands,  eternal  iu  the  Heavens!" 
Al'uust  1,  1847. 

Jo  !(iJi0J^M. 

WRnTK.V  AT  TIIK  FHtST  SIGHT  OP  ITS  FALLS,  1833,    BY  J.  8.  BnCKISOIlAM. 

Hail  I  Sovereifjn  of  the  World  of  Floods  I  whose  majesty 

and  might 
First  dazzles  —  then  enraptures  —  tlicn  o'erawes  the  aching 

sight ; 
The  pomp  of  Kings  and  Emperors —  in  every  clime  and 

zone, 
Grows  dim  beneath  the  splendor  of  tliy  glorious  watery 

tlirone. 

No  fleets  can  stop  thy  progress  —  no  armies  bid  thee  stay — 
But  onward  —  onward  —  onward  —  thy  march  still  holds 

its  way ; 
The  rising  mist  that  vails  thee,  as  thine  herald  goes  before,, 
And  the  music  that  proclaims  thee,  is  the  thundering 

cataract 's  roar. 

Thy  diadem  is  an  emerald  green,  of  the  clearept,  purest  hue, 
Set  round  with  wavciS  of  snow-white  foam,  and  spray  of 

feathery  dew, 
TVTiile  tresses  of  the  brightest  pearls  float  o  'er  thy  ample 

slieet, 
And  the  rainbow  lays  its  gorgeous  gema,in  tribute  at  thy 

feet 

Thy  reign  is  of  the  ancient  days  —  tliy  scepter  from  on 
high  — 


1*1 


'!4 


I 


! 


^    1 

i 
i 


64 


EVKUY   MAN   HIS    OWN    OUIDB. 


Thy  birth  was  wlicn  the  morning  stfirs  (ogctlior  sruig 

with  joy; 
TJio  Kun  —  the  moon,  and  all  tho  orbs  tliat  sliijio  upon 

thi'e  now, 
Saw  the  first  wreath  of  glory  which  twined  thino  iutuit 

brow. 

And  from  th-^t  hour  to  this  —  in  which  I  gaze  upon  thy 

Btrcam, 
Frr)m  ag3  to  a*o  —  in  winter's  frost,  or  Bumrncr's  sultry 

l)cvi  m  — 
By  day,  by  night  —  without  a  pause  —  thy  waves  with 

loud  acclaim, 
In  coaaek'ss  sounds,  have  still  proclaimed,  tho  Groat  Etor« 

nal  name. 

For  whether,  on  thy  forest  barks,  the  Indian  of  the  wood, 
Or,  since  his  days,  the  red  man's  foe,  on  his  fathcr-j;irul 

lias  stood  — 
Wlioe'er  h;is  soon  thine  incense  rise,  or  heard  thy  torrent's 

roar. 
Must  have  bent  before  the  God  of  all,  to  worship  and  a  lore. 

Accept    tlion,  0   Supremely    Great  1  —  0   lufiuile  I  —  0 

God  I 
From  tliis  primeval  altar  —  the  green  and  virgin  sod  — 
TJie  humble  homage  tliat  my  soul  in  gratitude  would  pny 
To  Thee!   whose  shield  has  guarded  nie  thro'  ad   rny 

wandering  way. 

For,  if  the  ocean  be  as  naught  in  the  hollow  of  thy  Lan  I, 
And  the  stars  of  the  bright   firmament,  in  thy  baia.'ii;^, 

grains  of  Hand, 
If  Niagara's  flood  seem  great  —  to  ns  who  lowly  bow  — 
0  I  Great  Creator  of  the  whole  I   how  passing  great   art 

Thou  I 


III' 


CATLIN  8    CAVE. 


C5 


Tet,  tho'  thy  power  is  greater  here 

Tlii'in  finite  mind  may  Bcan, 
Still  greater  is  thy  mercy, 

Shown  to  weak  dependent  man. 

For  him  tliou  cloth'st  tho  fertile  fields 

AVith  herb^,  and  fruit,  and  seed, 
lor  him  the  wood.-!,  tho  Jakes  supply 

Ilis  hourly  need. 

Around,  on  lii;^li  —  or  far  or  near  — 

Tlio  universal  whole, 
rrnolaim  thy  glory,  as  tho  orha 

In  their  fixed  courses  roll. 

And,  from  creation's  grateful  voico, 

Tliy  hymn  ascends  above, 
While  Ueaven  re-echoes  back 

The  choiais,  God  is  !ovc 

Is  on  tlio  Ainorlcan  side,  uLout  sixty  rods  below 
the  Forry,  nnd  this  is  tlio  only  wnj  of  goltino;  to  iL 
The  hnuk  is  steep  and  preci])itous,  nnd  dillieult  of 
access.  It  is  about  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  ten  high. 
Except  as  containing  a  few  sp(3ciniens  of  petrified 
moss,  it  is  not  an  object  of  interest,  and  is  seldom 
visited  bj  strange i-s. 


CHAPTER  111. 


Hi. 


w 


w 


L 


J^i  1^0!(fij  U  Cqi)r|i){),  (LiMc  ilo:!;,)  Oq  i[)t  f'i(S- 

TliG  time  of  sUvrtiiig  on  tliis  excursion,  fcr  visi- 
tors ^.jiierally,  is  after  brealifu.st.  Tliis  <^ivos  Jinijilc^ 
tiniG  to  view  Jill  the  places  of  interest  in  Canahi, 
and  return  before  dinner,  and  be  ready  for  the  after- 
roon  train.  Most  of  visitors,  wo  think,  in  tnhing 
tliis  route,  prefer  getting  a  carriage  on  this  side,  to 
take  them  all  round,  and  return  when  thov  p]l^^!■^2. 
The  drivers  will  say  that  tliey  will  take  you  to  Tal'lo 
Rock  for  two,  three,  and  sometimes  four  dt.l'.ars. 
But  the  regular  \  at  the  Livery  Stable,  for  a 
f^ood  carriaixe,  is  one  dollar  an  hour.  Others  airain 
prefer  ridino*  to  tlie  Suspension  Brido-o,  and  trettlDf; 
a  carriage  on  that  side,  to  take  them  to  tlie  llock  or 
elsewhere.  I  can  only  say,  if  I  were  going  myself 
with  a  party,  I  should  g\:t  a  carriage  on  this  side, 
for  it  is  sometimes  the  case  you  cannot  get  a  good 
one  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bridge.  The  dilKr- 
ence  in  the  expense  is  but  trifling,  and  froqucjitly  it 
costs  the  visitor  mf)re,  by  d''pendiug  on  that  side  for 
his  conveyance.  One  thing  further  before  we  sfart^ 
the  vi.sitor  will  understand,  and  that  is,  whether  ho 


SUSrENSION    CniDdE. 


07 


y{« 


L() 


pncjni^rr'.s  a  carri;i(ro  by  tlio  lionr,  or  l»y  tlio  jcb;  it 
(loos  not  iiu'ludo  tlio  ti)ll  .-it  tlio  IJiilLjo,  iuili'.>s  a 
Kpf'^iiil  liriri^iiiii  is  iiKi'lo  to  tliut  elVeot.  Tho  tolls  .'iro 
ns  follows:  at  the  <r:iU^  on  tlio  Pl:inl<  lloail,goini;  and 
returninrr,  for  a  cirriaf^o  5  cents;  at  tho  Sii?|tcn,si()n 
]lri  !gn,  for  each  pji.'ison'j^or  goinp;  over  and  reiurninc^ 
(if  it  is  tbo  saino  day,)  25  cents,  or  12  1-2  centa 
each  way.  If  ho  does  not  return,  tlio  cliargo  is  tho 
Eanic.  For  each  carria<j^o  drawn  by  two  horses,  go 
iii;jj  and  returning,  is  50  cents  —  if  he  does  not  re- 
turn, it  is  tho  same,  (i.  e.)  25  cents  for  each  passen- 
ger, and  50  cents  for  tho  carriage  besides.  Tho 
above  remarks  aro  deer..L-d  necessary,  because 
strangers  aro  sometimes  deceived. 

S  l|  ?  p  C  I)  i^  I  0  1]   £  »•  i  i)  CJ  iJ 

Is  two  miles  b(.'low  the  Falls  with  a  good  Pl.uik 
Koad  leading  from  all  tho  Hotels  on  this  side  to  it. 
Tlh'  l^ridgo,  whtMi  completed,  will  not  be  surpassed 
for  bold  dariii:::,  ami  magnificent  grandeur,  by  any 
work  of  a  similar  character  on  this  continent,  or 
perhaps  on  the;  globe. 

Tho  following  table  sliows  tho  Basket  Ferry,  and 
(lie  temporary  towers  of  tho  Foot  r>iidg(^,  whon 
Mr.  Elliott,  his  lady,  and  many  of  our  citizens,  both 
gentlemen  and  ladies,  crossed  over  the  river  in  a 
Basket,  on  a  singlo  wire,  about  an  inch  in  diameter, 
tv;o  hundred    and    thirty    focit   above  ono   of  th"o 


C8 


EVERT   MAN   III9    OWN    GUIDE. 


!M 


ni.'uMost  stroaiiiR  on  tlio  globe.  The  Basket,  with  two 
and  somethnea  three  persons  in  it,  was  suspended 
under  the  wire,  and  rundown  on  an  inclined  piano, 
by  means  of  wdieels,  very  much  at  such  an  anL,de  as 
the  wires  now  arc.  They  would  pass  from  the  hi!.i;h 
towers  to  the  center  of  the  course,  and  then  woul(J 
bo  drawn  np  by  a  windl.-iss  on  the  opposite  sid^s 
and  so  vice  versa.  The  usual  time  in  erossini^  w;n 
from  three  to  four  minutes.*  The  work,  under  the 
supervision  of  tho  enterprising  engineer,  Mr.  Elliott, 
was  ra])idly  progressing,  when  tlie  plank  on  the 
Foot  I'ridge,  which  wero  not  bolted  down,  were 
blown  otr  by  a  tremendous  tornado  into  the  rajmU 
Six  men  wero  at  work  on  the  bridge  at  the  tim^'v 
two  made  their  escape  to  tho  shore  —  the  fnnl 
structure  next  the  tower  was  gone  —  four  men  wei  o 
left  at  the  mercy  of  the  tempest,  hanging  with  but 
two  strands  ofyNo.  10  wire  to  support  them,  and  pre- 
vent their  falling  into  tho  rapids  below.  The  wires 
to  which  they  clung,  with  the  tenacity  of  despair, 
oscillated  with  the  utmost  velocity  sixty  or  seventy 
feet.  The  wind  increased,  and  for  a  moment  no 
power  short  of  Omnipotence  appeared  capable  of 
afibrding  thera  the  least  relief.  Their  cries  for 
assistance  were  becoming  more  feeble  and  indistinct, 
until  they  died  away  and  were  entirely  lost  amid 

•  The  Basket  is  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  Bridge,  kep' 
fo?  viiiitors  to  look  at 


BrsrzNsioN  duidge.  C9 

?he  liowllnor  totnpost;  their  hold  on  life  more  and 

iiioro  enfot'blo'l,  an<l  it  was  cxpoctod  by  tlioso  >vho 

liclield    tliis  licart-rendinG;  sceiio,  evory  instant  to 

p(;o  tlioin  make  tho  headlong  phingo.     Tho  wind 

lulled  fur  a  moment,  tlio  IJasket  was  instantly  lot 

''.own,  with  ono  mini,  carrying  a  small  ladder,  rost- 

in:r  on  tho  bottom  and  extending?  to  tlio  wires  to 

vliich  thoy  hung,  and  thus  ono  of  tho  men   do 

.^-..'ended  and  was  drawn  to  tho  shore.     IxeturnincT 

t!ic  second  time,  for  tho  others,  ono  of  them  c.\- 

(liiiincd,  "bo  quick,  my  strength  is  most  gone,  I 

(•'lall  fall  inl"  but  fortunately  tlioy  wero  all  saved; 

r.no   of   tliem,  however,  coidd  not   stand    for  two 

hoars  after  ho  got  to  tho  shore.     AVheu  the  I'oot 

Ilri'lgG  was  laid  down,  before  thero  was  any  railing, 

Mr.  Elliot  drovo  a  liorso  and   buggy  across,  and 

r.'turned. 

The  fallowing  arfj  tlio  dimensions  of  tho  Gr<:jat 

Itailroad  Suspension  Uridge: 

I-(Miu'ih  of  spiiii  from  centre  to  centre  of  Tou'ors  800  fcot 
li. i.,'iit  of  Tower  above  rock  on  tlio  Ain'n  si'lo    bS  " 
"         .<  <<  it        ;      Canad'u  "     78  " 

"       "        "  "        Floor  of  Hallway....     CO" 

"        "  track        "        Water 258  '* 

.V  .rrihcr  of  Wire  Cables i 

l>i.iincter  of  each  Cable lO.Jin's 

Ki'.niber  of  No.  1)  wires  in  each  Cable 3C)'}'J 

t  iLiinatc   af;t:;re{^ato    strength    of    Cables..  ixJ.lOOt'na 

VVrir^ht  of  Superstructure 800  " 

"       •*  "     and  maximum  loads 1250  ** 

Maximum ',rci;^l:t  tlie  c;'ble  and  Gtay^^'ill  nu]^- 
wrt.... !.7n(iO  " 


'5 


;i.:f: 


m 
H 


W 


SI:! 


I 


r 


70  EVERT   MAN   HIS   OWN    GUIDE. 

rn.sr  of  Towrr? 1  ft  fl  f/j , 

Top 8      " 

Loi;t,'lli  of  each  lij^ptT  Cfiblo l-"**^^  '"<'f  t* 

«'         "         "        IcWtT         "       llliO      " 

Dppt.h  of  nndicr  pits  holow  si!rf;i»x>  of  rock.. .21)  to  30  " 

Omsi.le  wiiltUof  Rail  Road  floor 21     " 

iDKido        "      "      "        "         "    'J'3    " 

Total  length  of  Wire  in  mllrs 'ICUO 

Tlie  novelty  of  crossinjj  nnd  coimectinc'  Iho  two 
Governments,  by  an  Iron  cliain/'-'  was  the  bridj^'a 
first  used  irjtii  of  Marcli,  1848,  built  by  Mr.  Chas. 
EllioL  It  was  a  liijlit  <ind  airv  structure, — a  mero 
epider  web,  compared  with  the  present  substantial  \l 
R.  bridi^e.  The  first  one  cost  less  than  ^50,0(»(».  The 
bridge  as  it  now  stands, — one  of  the  greatest  engi- 
neering achievements  in  the  world,  was  built  under 
the  control  of  John  A.  Roobling  as  EngiufT,  and 
Architect,  at  a  ct>st  of  about  8">00,0&().  It  w;is  a 
proud  (lay  for  Mr.  Roebling,  Thursday,  March  Stli, 
185'),  wlicn  he  crossed  by  steam  for  tho  first  time, 
this  wonderful  structure.  The  carriage  floor  which 
will  ;dso  be  used  for  foot  passengei-s,  is  suspi  nded  23 

feet  below  the  R.  11.  track ;  it  is  therefore  r.n  encliv 
sure,  securely  railed  in,  atlbrdiug  to  visito)s,by  wrdk- 

ing  across,  (which  is  usually  preferred)  the  finest  op- 

]iortunity  of  viewing  the  scenery  both  up  and  down 

the  river,  and  giving  ample  tiino  to  fully  appreciate 

the  astonishing  mechanism  on  which  they  are  stand- 

•I'lio  wires  were  first  got  across  by  inoaiip  of  a  Kite. 


^ 


BENDERS    CAVE. 


71 


If,  n  f/(, 

!K)     " 

/)  :<o  " 

•ua 

bo  bvo 

r.  Ch;i8. 
ha  mere 
iiiti:;l  li. 
K>.    The 
est  enu'i- 
It  iiTider 
icer,  .'vii'l 
It  w.-i.-  a 
.vch  Stii, 
Irst  time, 
lor  Mliich 
nilcd  23 
nil  PiioI'V 
by  waik- 
(inest  o{>. 
,nd  down 
,]>preciato 
iro  stiiud* 


^ 


iiiLT  over  tiio  awful  Lrulpli  bciicalli.  TIic  R.  R.  Brido'o 
is  cciistrueted  to  iiicei  tlio  wants  of  all  the  lines  cf 
II.  11.  tliat  centre  liore.  A  G  foot  fnia'-'o  u  laid  r.crosa 
f'r  liio  Eric  Road — a  4  foot  8.}  inch  for  tlio  Nlw 
York  Central,  and  a  5  foot  G  inch  iov  the  Great 
Yv'e,-ti'rn  Canada  Road.  Thus  althouirh  there  arc 
three  distinct  tracks  laid  HQvoea  tlie  brid';e,  onlyono 
train  can  occnpy  tlieni  at  once  —  all  being  within 
the  coiu|i;v;S  of  a  G  foot  guago,  and  by  au  higenious 
Ci':'tri\ancoof  switches,  all  possibiUty  of  danger  from 
ojlli.sion  is  avoided. 

Afler  crossinu:  the  bridixo  take  (ho  left  hand  road ; 
tlii:>  gives  you  a  better  view  of  the  deep  greeu  river 
bt'luw  you,  the  |)erpcndicular,  rocky  banks  for  two 
miles,  and  you  arrive  at  the  Clifton  House.  For  a 
dosoription  of  the  several  places  you  will  visit,  see 
Appendix. 

Ls  on  the  Canada  side,  about  half  way  between 

tliti  Clifton  Houi^o  and  the  Suspension  liridge.     It 

*s  a  cavity  in  the  bank,  about  six  feet  high,  and 

wenty  long,  formed  by  a  decomposition  of  the  lirne- 

■t:)no.     It  is  not  a  placo  of  much  resort. 


Ill 


i!i 


ffi'i 


r 


i,  i 


CHAPTER  IV. 

"WiiiRLrooL,  on  tlio  Aiiiorican  side,  Is  tlireo  miloM 
bolow  tlio  Falls;  there  is  an  excellent  carriage-road, 
planked  tlio  iii(-''st  of  tlie  way.  Expenses  for  car- 
riage, one  dollar  per  lionr.  Passing  tbrougli  the 
gate  near  tlio  Lank,  twenty-five  cent^  f(^r  cacli  per- 
pon.  This  is  entirely  different  from  any  thing  which 
lias  been  seen  about  Niafjjara.  After  viowinix  this 
wild  freak  of  nature's  work  from  above,  let  the  visi- 
tor, by  all  means,  go  below.  From  a  bench  placed 
for  the  accommodation  of  travelers,  let  him  stop 
about  thirty  f^et  up  tlio  ri\'.cr.  ITore  commences  tho 
v.-indinir  circuitous  st'iirwav  that  leads  to  tho  water's 
edge.  There  is  no  place  about  Niagara  .'is  wild  and 
terrific  as  thin. 

About  half  way  down  tlto  bank  is  a  smooth,  flat 
rock,  projecting  over  his  path  some  ten  fee.t.  This 
M  called  the  lialf-way  house.  Parties  of  pleasure 
frequently  drink  a  bottle  of  champagne  here  in  honor 
of  the  plac<?.  At  the  foot  is  a  small  tree  leaning  to- 
ward the  bank ;  it  would  bo  well  to  mark  this,  as  it  is 
the  only  place  where  you  can  ascend.  While  stand- 
ing upon  the  rocks  near  the  water's  edge,  cast  yoia 


H 


01 

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33 

H 

O 

o 

ri 

'»i 

33 
O 

35 

> 
> 


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3: 

o 
o 

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38 
O 

ffl 
en 

> 

> 

> 
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wmmmmmmH 


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!. 

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1 


A    TOUR    TO    TIIi:    V.'IiinLroOL. 


73 


eyes  up  tlio  livei'  toward  the  Cnnada  shore;  you 
'.vill  at  onco  jXTCoivc  the  river  is  vciy  consiJerably 
high.or  ill  the  center  than  it  is  on  each  side.  It  is 
e.siiiiiatcd  by  the  Eno-inecrs,  to  bo  eleven  and  a  lialf 
fvct.  If  two  men  stand,  the  one  -with  his  feet  in 
the  water  on  the  American  s:\d(},  and  the  other  on 
tl;e  Canada  shore,  and  extend  their  hands  as  hia'h 
f\i  tlioy  can  reach,  with  a  handlcercliief  or  any  thing 
of  the  kind  in  it;,  it  cannot  be  seen  by  either.  \\q 
know  of  no  way  to  account  for  tliis  wonderful  freak 
of  nature,  unless  its  being  compressed  v.ithin  tho 
bfuiks,  fi'.i.l  meeting  with  such  resistance  on  tho 
Canada  sido,  having  to  turn  almost  an  acute  angle, 
that  it  cannot  find  its  way  out  as  fast  as  it  accumu- 
lates abo\e.  Our  business,  however,  is  not  to  phi- 
losophize, but  to  slate  facts.  Tho  "Whirlpool  is 
visited  by  thousands  for  the  wild  and  magnificent 
grandeur,  of  its  scenery.  The  li^'or,  in  its  wildest 
fuiy,  THshes  against  a  perpendicular  bank  about  three 
liundr'-i  feet  high,  producing  a  re-action,  roaiing 
and  swelling  like  some  enraged  giant  strn^.rgling 
to  bo  free.  Logs,  and  other  bodio?.,  have  been 
known  to  float  in  this  whirl  of  waters  for  forty,  and 
sometimes  ninety  days,  before  they  could  lind  their 
Tvay  out. 

Tho  following  are  among  the  many  questions  usu 
ally  aeked  by  the  vi^^itor  before  descending  the  baok. 


urn 

m 

re- 


r 


74 


EVER?   MAN   HI3   OWN   GUIDE. 


pi 

lit,' 

¥\ 

I! 

h 

m 

nf 
L>t. 


I;* 


Q.  St.  Mary,  what  a  scene  is  tliis !  Where  doea 
the  river  go  ?  .... 

A.  There  is  no  internal  outlet.  Step  a  few  roda 
below  —  now  look! 

One  of  tIie  Ladies.  How  beautiful  and  clear, 
and  yet  how  powerful  and  rapid!  With  what 
commotion  it  bounds  away  I  Is  this  a  branch  of 
Kiagara  ? 

A.  No,  Madam,  this  is  the  whole  of  the  river 
—  all  the  Niagara  we  have. 

Lady.  Oh !  wonderful,  subHme,  and  mighty 
river! 

,    A.     It  is  truly  a  wonderful  river. 
'    Three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  Falls  is  the 
Whirlpool ;  and  here  a  man  by  the  name  of  Samuel 
Whitmore,  of  this  township,  threw  a  stone  across  to 
the  Canada  shore. 

Note. — In  June,  1841,  three  young  men,  desert- 
ers from  the  British  Ai'my,  in  attempting  to  cross 
the  Niagai-a  River  in  the  night,  below  the  Falls,  were 
drowned,  and  their  bodies  were  carried  into  the 
Whirlpool.  For  nearly  two  weeks  they  were  float- 
ing round,  amid  the  wrecks  and  floating  timbers. 

The  following  remarks,  by  a  gentleman  who  saw 
them  several  days  afterward,  are  descriptive  of  the 
■cene,  and  we  ragret  the  writer's  name  is  withheld* 

The  Author, 


SCENE   AT   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


76 


From  far  abovo,  iinpotuouslj 

The  raging  waters  sweep ; 
They  come  in  their  sublimity; 

Descending  leap  o'er  leap  ; 
In  wrath  and  foam  they  rush  along  — 

Through  cavern'd  rocks  they  flow, 
And  high  toward  the  rairror'd  skies, 

The  feathery  mist  they  throw. 

Legend  of  the  WureLPOOi- 

Drive  on,  Drive  on  ye  ever  curling  waves.  Still 
fall,  rebound,  and  sink  away,  in  deafening  notes; 
let  your  AviJd  cliorus  peal,  while  from  the  shore, 
the  trembling  rocks  give  way,  and  roll  destruction 
to  tbe  cavernod  deep.  Amazement  fills  my  mind 
while  I  behold  these  awful  depths,  doomed  to 
perpetual  strife,  to  agitation,  and  unceasing  war. 
Those  barriers  firm,  the  rolling  waves,  within  the 
bounds  prescribed  by  Him  who  made  them  for  his 
pleasure  and  at  his  word  piled  -high,  those  monu- 
mental rocks.  The  powerful  stream  has  rent  aside 
he  earth,  and  far  below  the  hills,  and  the  surround- 
ng  plain  has  sunk  its  course,  sweeping  resistless  on 
ta  way,  till,  where  old  time  on  yonder  lofty  point 
has  raised,  for  ages  past,  his  throne  of  massive  rocks, 
he  bids  the  waves  be  stayed ;  receding  back  affrightxjd 
from  their  course,  adverse  they  flow  to  nature's 
general  law.  The  mighty  flood  reels  like  a  dmnken 
man,  it  wreths  and  foams.    The  angry  Whirlpool 


.■<i§ 


i-i: 


I  i    ;) 


76 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GL'IDE. 


I 


if: 


m 


81 1 


M 


ronrs,  till  forced  bcue:itli,  tlio  rusliiiig  eddies  sink, 
and  nil  .-ibove  tlte  torrent  ovt}r^vllel^lino•,  spreads 
abroad.  Forced  from  below  tlie  imprisoned  waters 
gush,  and  pluncje  exultino;  on  tbeir  course.  Teri'or 
Ler  ever  w:il\oful  vio-ilr,  kccp>!,  find  frig-btful  death 
presents  liis  Joatbsome  front.  E'en  now  liis  work 
is  I'iding  on  (lio  deep,  in  mystic  maze  around,  submis- 
sive Iicre.  And  tlicre,  liideous  to  siglit,  amid  broken 
wrecks  three  human  forms  appear  as  in  liA^;  ^^!lh 
arms  outspread  upon  the  tossing  v/aves,  tliey  whirl 
in  the  teriific  da'.u'e  of  dt.'illi;  in  waving  unison 
above  ihr.'w  licads,  in  snovr-wbile  ]>]umes  the  screech- 
ing gulls  repeat  their  cry,  s'i:l,  sliiill,  and  dissonant. 
It  is  their  banquet,  r,nd  to  them  their  notes,  amid 
their  feast  is  sweet  and  iv.usical.  It  even  was 
voluptuary's  song.  Lnte,  in  t]ic?c  forms  high 
expectations  bhized,  of  hi  v'lfy,  of  hope,  of  liappi- 
r.G.-v,  the  i)rom!sed  hmd  in  view,  comfort,  long  life, 
freedom  and  all  the  aspirations  which  man's  fond 
heart  revels  rejoicing  in,  Avhcn  the  rapt  mind  tho 
glorious  future  paints.  Thy  stream,  Kiagara,  Jay 
midway  between  the  prospect  of  their  visionary 
joys.  They  trusted  to  thy  cold  embracing  waves, ' 
and  they  arc  thine;  cut  off  from  hi*c  they  perished 
while  hope's  bewitching  flowers  were  blossoming  for 
them.  Thou  ruthless  stream  upon  whc;;o  ];eavi:^.g 
bosom  they  are  borne,  night  after  night  its  lonely 
darkness  spreads,  and  day  succeeds  to  day,  still  thou 


DEVILS    HOLE. 


77 


cradlCvSt  tliem  in  cruel  mockery  of  this  world's  hope. 
How  did  they  give  up  life;  and  villi  cold  death, 
with  wli;iL  strong  nguny  did  tliey  eontend!  ^VIlat 
prayers  arose,  what  thoughts,  what  words  were 
theirs!  How, 'mid  tho  w.nes,  they  cheered  each 
other  on.  Hold  on,  the  shore  \a  near!  I  see  it 
there.  Help,  my  strength  fails,  I  slide  —  have 
mercy.  Lord  !  "Who  knows  hi.s  lot,  A\hen  will  death 
strike  his  blow;  'mid  gurgling  Hoods  shall  our  hibt 
struggles  ho,  or  shall  our  doom  in  instant  vengeance 
fall,  our  bodies  riven  by  the  Hash  of  Hea\en  ?  Vv'ho 
formed  us  men,  will  work  his  own  good  en<j,  and 
to  his  will  lot  all  submis.sivo  bow. 

On  returning  to  the  plank-road,  through  a  delight- 
ful grove,  if  the  visitor  wishes  ho  can  ^i>il  the 
Bloody  Run,  or  the  HovilH  Hole.  It  is  about  a  milo 
below,  and  Chasm  Tower  in  the  ueiglibcrhood. 

Is  three  and  a  half  miles  below  tho  Falls  on  the 
American  side,  formed  by  a  chasm  in  ihe  ea.-torn 
bank  of  the  river  one  hundruj  iifly  or  two  liundi-ed 
feet  deep.  An  angle  of  this  gulf  is  witliin  a  few 
feet  of  the  road,  oflering  the  tiateler,  ^\khout  alight- 
ing, an  0]>p(n'tuni!:y  of  looking  into  tho  yawning 
abyss  beneath.  During  the  French  wai-,  a  detach- 
ment of  the  Ihitlsh  armv,  while  i-etreatlno;  from 
Fort  Sehlosscr,  (about  ii\'e  miles  soutli,)  were  decoyed 


Nl 


'  m 


78 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


f: 

m 

1 

1    -r 

i'l  .  . 

1 ' 

t         :    ',      *    r 

1 

;  ■    1        ■ 

ii    ^ 

iuto  an  ambush  of  Fiendi  and  Iiuliaiis.  The  yell 
of  tho  savage,  jus  it  rung  out  upon  the  luklnight  air, 
was  tho  first  indication  of  their  attack.  Baggago- 
wjigons,  oiHcera,  men,  woinfn  and  children,  were  en- 
circled and  pushed  over  tho  bank,  and  plunged  into 
the  awful  chasm  below.  I'y  the  most  authentic  ac- 
count, tho  number  who  perished  is  two  hundred  and 
fifty.  Their  bones  lay  bleaching  for  yeai-s,  and 
some  of  thcra  aro  to  be  seen  to  this  day.  Two 
persons  only  escaped ;  a  drummer  who  was  caught 
in  the  branch  of  a  tree  in  his  descent,  and  a  man 
by  the  name  of  Stedman,  (the  same  who  put  the 
goats  upon  Goat  Island ;)  while  attempting  to  flee, 
tlie  biidle-reins  were  seized  by  the  savnges;  he  in- 
stantly cut  them  loose  and  escaped.  The  Indians 
afterward  gave  him  all  the  land  he  encircled  in  his 
flight,  which  was  the  point  between  the  Devil's  Hole 
and  Fort  Schlosser,  including  tho  Falls.  The  visitor 
can  descend  tho  stairs  to  tho  water's  edge  if  he 
chooses,  but,  like  tho  "Indian  gun,  it  costs  more 
than  it  comes  to."  What  has  produced  this  wonder- 
ful chasm,  is  left  much  to  conjecture  to  dotermine. 
Professor  Lyell  thinks  the  small  stream  that  pours 
over  into  the  gulf,  hear  an  old  saw-mill,  would  have 
been  "perfectly  competent  to  have  cut  the  ravine, 
and  we  need  look  for  no  more  powerful  cause." 
The  battle  above  mentioned,  occurred  1 7  65.  Charges 
for  going  on  to  the  rock,  and  descending  the  stairs 


CHASM  TOWER — MATD  OF  THE  MIRT,  AC. 


79 


Itelow,  twelvG  .'uul  n  lialf  cents.     Chasm  Tower,  or 
Mount  Eagle,  is  a  few  rods  below. 

Is  three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  Falls,  Amer- 
ican side.  A  panoramic  view,  the  specular  medium 
on  the  top  of  the  Tower,  through  which  the  land- 
scape is  viewed  in  varied  and  glowing  colors,  the 
deep  gulf,  the  infuriated  river,  as  it  roai"s  and  rushes 
with  the  velocity  of  light,  the  Canada  shore, 
Brock's  monument,  make  it  attractive,  and  visitors 
are  generally  interested.  Charges  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  for  ascending  the  Tower,  seventy-five  feet 
high. 

5)J^I()  of  i[)e  ?tflsf, 

Two  miles  below  the  Falls,  usually  makes  three 
trips  a  day,  passing  American  Fall,  Goat  Island, 
Horse  Sh-  I'till,  and  returns  to  her  landing  just 
above  ihe  r  pension  Bridge.  Tho  boat  makes  her 
trip  m  about  tiiirty-five  or  forty  minutes. 

If  i|  C  I(  iT)  e  i|  ^l)b  G  l|  I  ()  C  3 . 
There  is  generally  carriages  to  be  had  at  any 
time,  and  at  all  places  that  you  may  be;  for  the 
hackmen  make  ijfc  a  business  to  hunt  up  parties,  and 
carry  them  who.sver  they  m  ^y  want  to  go.  There 
arc  also  persoLs  who  act  as  guides,  and  who  go  with 


|v,r 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


bilM    12.5 


12.2 


^  "^  lllls£ 


I-    I. 

Wuu 


im 


Hill— 

1.4  mil  1.6 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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WIBST{<K,N.Y.  14SS0 

(7l6)t72-4S03 


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80  EVERY  MAN  ms  OWi\  Guioa 

parties.  Tlioy  arc  very  useful,  esijoclally  if  you. 
havo  but  a  sliorfc  time  to  stay,  and  want  to  mako 
tlio  most  of  tLo  timo  you  can. 

From  Cataract  House  to  Ferry 90  rods 

"      tho  Ei-gle  Itotel 85     " 

"       "    Falls  Hotel 80    " 

"       "     St.  Lawrence 75     " 

*'      "     ^^•l-ara  House 79    " 

From  the  hotels  to  the    „  ...^ -.  ^;'-4♦w■. 

Suspension  Bridge 9      miles 

Maid  of  the  Mist 2         " 

■Whirlpool 3 

Devil's  Hole,  or  Bloody  Kun 3>^     " 

Indian  Village 9  ~      ** 

Lewiston 7         '* 

Fort  Niagara It         *» 

IS^urabcr  stops  a t  the  Ferry 290 

"  "      "     "    Whirlpool 85 

"      "     "    Devil's  Hole 64 

'*  '♦      "    Chasm  Tower 90 

Is  ulne  miles  from  tiro  Falls,  American  side. 
There  is  nothing  here  that  has  the  shape  of  a  village. 
A  few  scattering  huts,  most  of  them  log-houses,  arc 
all  that  can  be  seen.  A  ride  to  the  meeting-house 
on  the  Sabbath  is  frequently  made — pleaching  in 
English  by  a  missionary,  and  interpreted  into  tho 


[I 

if  ' 


•fwTl 


Ci 
'A 


X 

< 


o 

Cm 


CO 

i 

< 

< 


1 1   :'1 


HEALTH  OF  THE  FALLS  —  GAME. 


81 


ji  idian  language  bj  the  chief,  or  one  of  the  tribe. 
Itey  are  the  Tuscaroras,  formerly  from  North  Car- 
olina, once  a  powerful,  warlike  tribe,  but  are  dimin- 
ished away  to  a  mere  handful.  Their  women  are 
at  the  Falls  nearly  every  day  during  the  visiting  sea- 
6on,  and  are  very  ingenious  in  making  bead-work, 
which  they  offer  for  sale.  Charges  for  a  cai-riage  to 
the  village,  there  i*^  no  definite  price ;  generally  from 
three  to  four  dollars. 

ifeqlfft  of  l()e  I^\\$. 

No  place  in  the  United  States  can  boast  of  a 
greater  degi'ee  of  uninterrupted  health  than  the 
Falls.  Not  an  epidemic,  or  case  of  cholera  has  ever 
originated  here,  though  the  fell  destroyer  has  laid 
low  many  citizens  at  Buflfalo,  Tonawanta,  Lockport 
and  Lewiston ;  yet  wo  have  escaped.  This  is  attrib- 
utable, doubtless,  in  some  degree,  to  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  river,  and  the  pure  and  exhilarating  state 
of  the  atmosphere.     Whatever  may  be  the  cause, 

nch  is  the  fact;  and  it  is  acknowledged  by  every 

ne. 


i'i] 


Some  strangers  visit  the  Falls  with  all  the  imple- 
ments for  a  long  and  successful  chase  among  the 
buffalo,  bear  and  deer ;  but  nothing  of  the  kind  ia 

foui^d  in  our  woods,  though  they  miglit,  in  former 
11 


82 


EVKRr   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


1. 


Iff! 


ages,  Iiavo  roamed  fearless  tbroiigli  tlie  forest  here; 
but  now  tliey  are  all  gone  —  a  few  squirrels,  pheas- 
ants and  duclis  are  only  to  be  met  with.  Ooeasiou- 
ally  a  bald  e;iglo  is  seen  sailing  high  in  air,  whose 
eye  is  not  dimmed  by  the  noontide  blaze,  aijd  dai't- 
ing  its  fiery  look  upon  the  multitudes  who  congn> 
gate  upon  the  banks  of  this  mighty  river,  and  with 
a  piercing  scream,  soaring  away  to  the  lands 
unknown. 

At  Fort  Schlosscr,  two  and  a  half  miles  above  the 
Falls,  a  few  Avhitc  and  black  bass  are  taken,  and 
those  who  arc  expert,  often  catch  the  pickei'cl  and 
the  pike,  and  considerable  quantities  of  dillerent 
kinds  are  sometimes  taken  in  nets.  The  angler  is 
frequently  more  successful  below  Biddlo  Stairs,  west 
side  of  Goat  Island. 

?\  h)  i(  ?  e  h}  e »)  f  S . 

Nature  has  done  much  to  arause,  art  but  little. 
A  ball-alley,  billiard-table,  cotillion  parties  are  the 
principal. 

G  I)  n  l'  c  ()  e  3 . 

There  is  a  Presbyterian,  an  Episcopahan,  a 
Methodist,  a  Lai)tlst  and  a  Catholic  church. 


HOTELS  —  INDIAN    CURIOSITIES. 


82 


ire; 

|.'l.S- 

:)ii- 
liit- 

■10- 

[ith 
huh 


a 


if  0  f  e  I  ,s . 

Tho  Cataract  House  lias  lone:  t)een  consideied 
Rinong  the  first  cIjlss  bouses  in  tlio  United  States. 
The  International  Hotel  is  also  a  new  and  first  class 
house,  centi-ally  located,  with  spacious  rooms  and  ele- 
g-ant  a]»pointraent8.  Tho  Eagle,  the  Empire,  tho 
Falls  Ilotid,  tho  National,  the  Franklin  House,  tha 
Ningara,  tho  St.  Lawrence,  tl  i  Averil  House,  tho 
Chir(;ndou,  tho  Rochester  House,  and  *he  AVestom 
Hotel,  are  all  Houses  well  patronised  during  tho 
Visiting  Season. 

The  Monteagh)  House,  located  at  tho  Suspension 
Bridge,  is  considered  ono  of  the  finest  Hotels  in 
tho  country. 

'Jbe  ^6  ileqijx  College, 

Situated  at  tho  Falls,  was  founded  by  the  bequest 
of  tho  person  whose  name  it  bears,  for  tho  educa- 
tioii  of  orphan  children  of  parents  belonging  to 
the  Episcopal  Church. 

The  great  Indian  store  directly  opposite  the  Cat- 
aract House,  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  state.  At 
the  old  Curiosity  shop,  toll-gate,  and  on  Goat  Island, 
are  also  largo  assortments  of  Indian,  moose-hair, 
Quaker  and  other  kinds  of  work  for  sale. 


1.? 


!?1 


I    ' 


h: 


CHAPTER  V. 

1^ece33ioi)  of  f()e  fqll3. 

Professor  Lyeli  says :  — "  The  fii-st  feature  which 
strikes  you  in  this  region  is  the  escarpment,  or  line 
of  inland  cliffs,  one  of  which  runs  to  a  great  distance 
east  from  Queenston.  On  the  Canada  side  it  has  a 
height  of  more  than  three  hundred  feet  The  fir«l 
question  which  occurs  when  we  consider  the  nature 
of  the  country,  is,  how  cUfFs  were  produced ;  why  do 
we  so  suddenly  step  from  this  range  to  the  gypseous 
marls,  and  then  so  suddenly  to  the  subjacent  shale 
and  sandstone.  We  have  similar  lines  of  escarpment 
in  all  countries,  especially  where  the  rock  is  limestone ; 
and  they  are  considered  to  be  ancient  sea-clifFs,  which 
have  become  more  gentle  in  their  slope,  as  the 
country  has  emerged  from  the  ocean.  You  may 
perhaps  ask  if  the  Ontario  may  not  once  have  stood 
at  a  higher  level,  and  the  cliffs  been  produced  by  it 
action,  instead  of  that  of  the  ocean.  Some  of  you 
may  have  rode  along  the  ridge  road,  as  it  is  called, 
that  remarkable  bank  of  sand  which  exists  parallel, 
or  nearly  so,  to  the  present  borders  of  Lake  Ontario, 
at  a  considerable  height  above  it.  I  perfectly  agree 
with  the  general  opinion  respecting  this,  that  it  was 


^TT 


EECE88ION   OF   THE   PALLS. 


85 


the  ancient  boundary  of  Lake  Onturio.  In  somo 
parts  of  it  fresh  water  shells  have  bi^en  found.  You 
cannot  explain  the  escarpment  hy  the  aid  of  the  ac- 
tion of  the  lake,  ft^r  it  extends  f;irther  and  not  in  the 
Barae  direction.  When  the  land  emei-god  gradually 
from  the  sea,  as  it  is  now  doing,  the  sea  would  natu 
rally  create  those  sea-clilFs,  and  during  the  upheaval 
they  would  of  course  become  inland.  In  Europe, 
proofs  that  limestone  rocks  have  been  washed  away  are 
abundant.  In  Greece,  in  the  Morea,  this  is  especially 
conspicuous.  We  have  tiiere  tlireo  limestones  one 
above  the  otlier,  at  various  distances  from  the  sea. 
Along  the  lino  you  may  see  literal  caves  worn  out 
by  the  action  of  the  waves.  The  action  of  the  salt 
spray,  which  has  also  effected  a  sort  of  chemical  de- 
composi'jon,  is  also  easily  to  be  observed.  So  com- 
pletel)  s  this  the  case  with  eacli  of  these  lines  that 
you  cannot  doubt  for  an  instant  that  hei-e  is  a  series 
of  inland  cliffs;  and  this  phenomenon  being  so  cer- 
tain in  the  Morea,  leads  us  by  analogy  to  infer  that 
these  escarpments  of  the  distiict  were  produced  by 
a  similar  cause. 

It  is  not  disputed  that  there  is  some  change  going 
on  at  the  falls,  even  now.  There  occurs,  us  we  know, 
occasionally  a  falling  down  of  fi'agments  of  rock,  aa 
may  be  seen  at  Coat  Island.  The  shale  at  the  bot- 
tom is  destroyed  in  consequence  of  the  action  of  the 
epray  and  frost ;  the  limestone  being  thus  undermined, 


66 


EVERT    MAN    illS    OWN   GUIDK. 


sUmI' 


%. 


r: 


falls  down ;  and  it  has  beeii  belioved  that  m  this  way 
thero  has  been  a  recc^sfeion  of  about  fifty  yards  in 
about  forty  years;  but  this  is  now  generally  admitted 
to  have  been  o\'erstated.  I'here  is  at  least  a  probable 
recession  of  about  ono  foot  every  year :  though  part 
of  the  fall  may  go  back  fjister  than  this ;  yet  if  you 
regard  tho  whole  river,  even  this  probably  will  be 
soraethinjx  of  an  exarjinjeration.  Our  obsen'ations 
upon  this  point  are  necessarily  imperfect;  and  when 
wo  reflect  that  fifty  yeai-s  ago  the  country  was  per- 
fectly wild,  and  inhabited  by  beai-s,  wolves,  and  here 
and  there  a  hunter,  we  shall  think  it  surprising  that 
we  have  any  observations  at  all,  even  for  such  a 
period  back.  Wo  have  an  account  of  tho  faUs,  given 
by  Father  Hennepin,  a  French  Missionary,  who  gives 
an  exaggerated  description  of  them,  and  yet  one 
which  is  tolerably  correct.  He  represents  a  cascade 
as  falling  from  the  Canada  side  across  the  other  two. 
He  says  that  between  Lake  Erie  and  Lake  Ontario, 
there  is  a  vast  and  wonderful  waterfall ;  after  speaking 
of  this,  he  says  there  is  a  third  cascade  at  the  left  of 
the  other  two,  falling  from  west  to  east,  the  other 
falling  from  south  to  north.  Ho  several  times  alludes 
to  the  thu'd  cascade,  which  he  says  was  smaller  than 
the  other  two.  Now,  those  who  consider  that  be- 
cause Father  Hennepin  gave  the  height  of  the  falls 
at  six  hundred  feet,  small  value  is  to  be  attached  to 
his  testimony  respecting  any  part  of  the  country,  do 


h 


RECESSION   OF   THE    FALLS. 


87 


biiu  injustice.  I  tliink  it  perfectly  evident  tliat  there 
must  Lave  been  such  a  third  ciiscade,  falling  from 
we.st  to  eiLst,  jls  that  to  which  he  alludes. 

A  Danish  naturalist,  in  the  year  1750,  who  came 
to  this  country  and  visited  tlie  falls,  of  which  he  has 
also  given  us  a  description,  which  was  published  in 
the  Gentleman's  Magazine,  in  1751,  also  gives  a  view 
of  the  Falls.  In  its  general  features  his  description 
agrees  well  with  that  of  Father  Hennepin.  He  went 
seventy-three  years  after  liim,  and  there  was  then  no 
third  cascade.  But  the  point  where  Father  Hennepin 
had  put  liis  cascade,  he  had  marked,  and  says  that, 
"  that  is  the  place  where  the  water  was  forced  out  of 
its  direct  course  by  a  prodigious  rock,  which  turned 
the  water  and  oblijxed  it  to  fall  across  the  falls."  Ho 
goes  on  to  say,  that  only  a  few  years  before,  there 
had  been  a  downfall  of  that  rock ;  which  was  un- 
doubtedly part  of  the  table  rock ;  and  after  that  the 
cascade  ceased  to  flow.  Now,  it  does  not  appear 
whether  he  had  ever  seen  Hennepin's  account  or  not, 
he  only  mentions  the  fact  that  there  had  been  a 
thirl  cascade;  and  it  is  a  striking  confirmation  of 
the  accuracy  of  Father  Hennepin's  description.  We 
find  these  two  observers,  at  an  interval  of  seventy 
years  apart,  remarking  on  the  very  kind  of  change 
which  we  now  remark  as  having  taken  place  within 
the  last  fifty  years;  an  undermining  of  the  rock,  and 
a  falling  down  of  the  hmestone,  and  a  consequent 


i 


88 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


obHtcrfition  of  tlio  fall.  Every  one  wHa  hafl  vis- 
ited the  Falls,  on  irKiulriiisj  of  the  ^uik-s  about 
the  ohaiigos  that  have  taken  place,  may  have  been 
told  t'ittt  the  American  Fall  has  become  more  cres- 
cent shaped  than  it  was  thirty  years  ago,  when  it 
was  nearly  straight.  The  center  has  given  way,  and 
now  tl  ere  is  an  indentfition  of  nearly  thirty  feet. 
The  Horse  Shoo  Fall  also  has  been  considerably  al- 
tered. Jt  is  not  of  so  regular  a  crescent  shape  as 
formerly,  lut  has  a  more  jagged  outline,  especially 
near  Goat  Islund ;  it  has  ^ess  of  the  horse-shoe  shape, 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  than  when  it  wjis 
given.  It  is  qui^o  certain  that  things  there  are  not 
stationary ;  and  t  .10  great  question  is,  whether,  by 
this  accion,  tbo  v/holo  Falls  have  been  reduced  in 
this  manner.  Fi'om  representations  made  by  other 
travelers,  I  was  desirous  of  ascertaining  whether 
fresh  water  remains  were  found  on  Goat  Island,  as 
had  been  said;  for  it  would  bo  striking,  if  on  this 
island  there  should  be  a  stratum  of  twenty-five  feet 
of  sand  and  loam,  pebbles  and  fresh  water  shells. 
They  were  found  there,  and  I  made  a  collection  of 
several  species  of  shells  found  on  the  island ;  among 
them  were  the  planorhis^  a  small  valvata  and  sev- 
eral other  kinds.  They  were  of  kinds  generally 
found  living  in  the  rapids,  in  the  river  above,  or  in 
the  lake. 

In  digging  a  mill-raco  there,  only  a  few  years 


II    I 


UECKSSION    OF    THE    FALLS. 


89 


since,  tliere  were  found  a  great  number  of  sluills,  and 
al.so  a  tooth  of  a  mastodon,  sonvo  twelve  or  thirteen 
feet  below  the  surface.     It  waa  the  comii;on  Ohio 
mastodon,  and  must  have  been  buried  beneath  these 
twelve  or  thirteen  feet  of  fresh  water  deposit,  one 
layer  at  a  time,  each  containing  dillerent  shells.     In 
answer  to  my  question,  whether  similar  shells  were 
ever  found  lower  down  ?  the  guide  said  he  would 
take  mo  to  a  place,  half  a  niilo  below,  where  the 
strata  had  been  laid  open.     Wo  found  there  depos- 
ited in  the  rock  a  small  quantity  of  fresh  water  shells, 
showing  that  this  old  deposition  extended  down  to 
that  distance.     Here  we  have  proofs  that  the  river 
once  stood  at  a  higher  level,  and  in  a  tranijuil  state; 
and  there  is  every  appearance  of  the  rock  having 
been  like  a  solid  barrier  to  iiold  the  waters  back  in 
a  lake-hke  state,  so  that  they  might  throw  down 
those  fresh  water  deposits  at  that  height.     You  will 
understand  this  better,  if  you  consider  that  if  tho 
Falls  go  on  receding,  no  matter  at  what  rate,  —  an 
inch,  a  foot,  a  yard,  a  year,  —  in  the  course  o^  time 
the  whole  must  recede  considerably  from  its  present 
condition.     "What   proofs  should  we  have  of  this 
afterward?     You  will  easily  see  that  if  the  river 
should  cut  its  way  back  to  a  certain  point,  the  effect 
would  be  to  remove  the  rocky  barrier,  the  limestone 
of  the  rapids,  which  has  been  sufficient  to  pond  the 
nver  back.    But  if  the  river  cuts  ita  way  back,  this 


;■  ii  ^i 


'a%^¥ 


90 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDK. 


:{ 


i,i-i* 
'n 


vii 


! 

i 

1' 

:  , 

lUI 

barrier  could  no  longer  exist;  the  channel  would  be 
deepened,  and  tlie  deposits  existing  high  and  dry 
upon  the  land,  would  become  proof  of  the  recession. 
This  kind  of  proof  we  have,  that  the  Falls  have  re- 
ceded three  miles  from  the  Whirlpool,  the  limestone 
having  been  higher  at  the  Whirlpool  than  the  river 
at  the  Falls.  It  may  be  well  to  say,  that  the  beds 
all  dip  to  the  south,  at  the  rate  of  about  twenty-five 
feet  in  a  mile.  In  seven  miles  the  dip  causes  a  gen- 
eral rise  of  the  platform  to  the  north,  so  that  when 
at  the  top  of  the  cliff,  you  are  at  a  gre."*er  height 
than  the  level  of  Lake  Eric;  and  if  the  Falls  wore 
formerly  at  Queenston,  their  height  was  probably 
near  double  what  they  now  are. 

Mr.  Hall  suo^jxested  that  at  that  time  the  whole 
fall  was  not  at  One  place,  and  I  think  it  quite  likely 
that  such  was  the  case.  There  is  reason  to  believe 
that  one  fall  was  upon  the  quartzose  sand  below, 
and  the  other  on  the  Protean  bed.  The  upper  part 
would  of  course  recede  ftister  than  the  lower,  because 
it  is  softer,  as  is  seen  to  be  the  case  at  Rochester; 
but  the  limestone  becoming  thicker  and  harder, 
would  recede  more  slowly.  There  may  have  been 
several  falls,  as  at  Rochester,  each  one  of  them  being 
le^s  high  than  at  present,  and  yet  the  whole  being 
nearly  double  its  present  height. 

I  told  you  that  the  river  fell  about  one  hundred 
feet  between  the  base  of  the  Falls  and  Lewiston,  so 


yn 


RECESSION    OF   THE    FALLS. 


91 


that  the  bed  slopes  at  that  rate.  This  slope  of  the 
river,  and  then  the  upward  slope  of  the  platform, 
are  the  reasons  why  the  Falls  are  now  of  less  height 
than  formerly ;  so  when  we  carry  ourselves  back  in 
imagination  to  the  time  when  the  river  had  not  i;e- 
C€ded  so  fur,  we  have  a  barrier  of  limestone  much 
higher.  The  valley  in  which  the  river  then  floved 
must  have  been  much  narrower  than  its  present  ra- 
vine. The  distance  now  from  the  Canada  to  the 
American  side  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
whereas  at  half  a  mile  below,  it  is  only  half  that 
distance. 

Farther  investigations,  by  tracing  the  fresh  water 
deposits  lower,  will  give  more  precise  information. 

You  might  suppose  that  if  we  find  the  remains 
of  a  mastodon  in  a  fresh  water  deposit  so  lately 
laid  dry,  as  th;it  near  the  village  of  Niagara,  and 
only  twelve  feet  below  the  surface,  the  mastodon 
has  lived  in  the  country  at  a  modern  period;  you 
might  think  that  a  few  centuries  would  have  been 
sutlii-'iont  for  the  accumulation  of  twelve  feet  of 
shelly  sandstone  and  limestone,  and  that  it  may 
have  been  recently  that  this  mastodon  was  buried, 
when  the  barrier  was  at  the  Whirlpool,  before  this 
twelve  feet  of  fluviatile  strata  were  deposited.  Yet 
these  strata  are  older  than  the  Whirlpool. 

Among  the  ol)jections  to  tlie  supposition  that  tha 
ravine  was  cut  out  by  the  Niagara,  one  is,  that  at 


4 


m 


92 


EVERY   MAN  HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


W' 


it 


I   '( 


;  1? 


the  place  called  the  Devil's  Hole,  or  the  Bloody  Run, 
the  ravine  roust  have  been  cut  by  some  more  power- 
ful cause,  than  by  a  slight  stream. 

But  this  I  regard  as  no  objection  at  all,  for  on  ex- 
amining the  nature  of  the  soil,  &c^  I  am  convinced 
that  even  the  small  stream  which  now  flows,  wouU 
have  been  perfectly  competent  to  cut  out  the  ravine^ 
and  that  we  need  look  for  no  more  powerful  cause. 

Suppose  the  Falls  once  to  have  been  near  Queens* 
ton,  they  would  recede  differently  at  different  times; 
faster  when  the  soft  shale  was  at  the  base,  at  other 
times  slowly,  when  the  hard  sandstone  was  to  be  cut 
through.  First  of  all  comes  the  quart  zoso  sand- 
stone for  a  certain  distance;  then  the  falls  recede 
slowly,  but  more  rapidly  when  it  came  to  the  soft 
shales.  Then  comes  the  sandstone  again  at  the 
base,  which  now  extends  to  the  Whirlpool,  and  here 
the  movement  was  slow.  It  piobably  stood  for 
ages  at  the  Whirlpool.  Then  for  another  period  it 
receded  more  rapidly ;  and  it  is  probable  that  for 
the  last  mile,  its  recession  has  been  comparatively 
slow,  because  the  Protean  group,  and  about  twenty 
feet  of  sandstone,  making  about  fifty  feet  of  hard 
rock  at  the  base  were  to  be  cut  through.  It  is  cer- 
tain that  the  movement  now  is  at  a  faster  rate,  as 
the  shale  is  exposed." 

The  above  reasoning  perfectly  coincides  with  the 
Dpinion  of  Dr.  Dwight,  and  others  who  have  devoted 


IS,* 

m 


NIAOAHA. 


03 


any  time  to  the  subject,  and  strangers,  as  far  as  the 
author  has  been  enabled  to  learn,  have  come  to  the 
saiPQ  conclusion. 

Is  an  Indian  word,  from  Onyakarra,  supposed  to 
be  the  Iroquois  language,  as  they  were  the  first  who 
dwelt  here,  as  far  as  we  know.  The  meaning  of  the 
term  is  "mighty,  wonderful,"  thundering  water. 
It  lies  in  latitude  43  degrees,  G  minutes  north,  and 
longitude  2  degrees,  5  minutes  west  from  London. 


NIAGAllA   IN   THB   WINTEIl   OF    1855. 

The  almost  unparalleled  severity  of  the  Win'^r  of 
1855-6,  was  not  without  its  eircct  on  the  I' alls,  causing 
a  combination  of  the  rarest  ice  formations,  perhaps,  ever 
presented  in  their  history.  Then  tha  Northern  King 
had  full  sway,  and  the  frost  worked  its  wonders  on  tlie 
water,  turning  the  river  into  hard,  unyielding  granite. 

The  silence  of  the  grave  hung  over  nature,  broken 
only  by  the  eternal  roar  of  that  descending  cataract,  as 
the  torrent  rushed  amongst  the  gigantic  columns  and 
magic  shreds  of  ice.  Facing  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls  rose 
mountains  of  ice,  resembling  the  vast  glaciers  that  re- 
pose on  the  sides  of  the  Alps,  while  in  each  crevice  and 
hidden  nook  were  fairy  scenes  of  loveliucss  and  beauty, 
the  sole  work  of  frost  and  spray.  Strong  as  was  the  iron 
grasp  of  Winter,  petrifying  in  its  power,  that  eternal 
(flood  unchecked  descended,  colder  in  its  aspect,  darker 
'and  more  mysterious  than  in  Summer  is  its  expression. 

Language,  indeed,  is  powerless  to  portray  Niagara  as 
it  then  appealed,  in  its  Winter  di-ess. 


k:] 


W 


i> 


'm 


1  ! 


CHAPTER  VL 
Ifte  b|f)j)ei'  Holies. 

We  will  now  invite  the  attention  of  the  traveler 
to  the  head  waters  of  the  N iagai-a  River. 

Lake  Superior  is  the  greatest  body  of  fresh  water 
in  the  world.  It  is  near  the  north-west  boundaiy 
of  the  United  States.  A  small  riyer  flows  into  it 
from  the  north,  fed  by  the  red  lakes  in  Canada. 

It  lies  between  46  and  49  degrees  of  north  lati- 
tude, and  between  84  and  93  degrees  of  west  longi- 
tude from  London. 

It  is  459  miles  long,  109  wide,  and  800  feet  deep. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Superior  are  the 
greatest  and  richest  copper  mines  in  the  world. 

The  following  are  the  principal  rivers  that  flow 
into  this  inland  sea:  Taquamenaw,  White  Fish, 
Two  Heaii,  Prairie,  Chocolate,  Dead,  Garlic,  St. 
Johns,  Huron,  Keewitiwana,  Misery,  Flint  Steel, 
Octonagon,  Iron,  Camp,  Montreal,  Chippewa,  Wis- 
consin, and  several  smaller  ones,  making  forty-five 
small  and  three  large  rivers  that  empty  into  this 
lake.  On  the  Iron  river  are  perpendicular  falls  of 
more  than  600  feet,  and  some  of  the  rivers  are  large, 
and  navigable  for  hundreds  of  miles.    The  outlet 


!!■ 


\M 


fi* 


Tff 


THE  CTFER  LAKES. 


95 


of  Lake  Superior  is  ine  Straits  of  St.  Mary^s.  It  is 
05  miles  long,  and  pours  its  watera  into  Lake  Huron. 
This  lake  is  218  miles  long,  180  wide,  and  500  feet 
deep.  Tlie  boundary  line  between  Canada  and  the 
United  States  passes  through  the  center  of  this  lake. 
Lake  Huron  receives  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan, 
through  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  which  are  15 
miles  long,  and  10  broad.  The  following  are  some 
of  the  principal  rivera  that  empty  into  Lake  Huron : 
Saginaw,  Ausable,  Thunder  Bay,  Cheboygan,  Cass, 
Tiltibawasse,  and  several  smaller  ones. 

Lake  Michigan  is  300  miles  long,  55  wide,  and 
200  feet  deep.  Some  of  the  principal  rivers  that 
empty  into  Lake  Michigan,  are :  the  Betseys,  Manis- 
ta,  Natipekago,  White,  Mashegon,  Grand,  Kalamazoo, 
St.  Josephs,  with  eight  smaller  rivers.  Green  Bay 
empties  into  Lake  Michigan,  on  the  north-west 
corner.  It  is  100  miles  long,  20  wide,  and  '75  feet 
ieep.  Green  Bay  receives  the  watei-s  of  Fox  River, 
which  is  the  outlet  of  Winnebago  Lake.  Menomo- 
nee,  Peshtigo,  Oconto,  and  several  streams  of  smaller 
size,  discharge  their  watera  into  this  Bay.  All  the 
watera  of  the  upper  Lakes,  the  wonder  and  admira- 
ti"^  of  the  world,  are  united  and  empty  into  the  St 
Clair  River,  40  miles  long,  and  35  feet  deep.  St. 
Clair  River  discharges  its  waters  into  St.  Clair  Lake, 
which  is  about  95  miles  in  circumference.  The 
©uUetof  this  lake  is  the  River  Detroit,  27  miles  long, 


ir 


,;(  ' 


90 


EVERY    MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDK. 


^f 


and  twenty-five  feet  deep,  v  Mch  empties  into  Lako 
Erie,  which  is  three  hundred  and  ninety  miles  long, 
sixty-five  wide,  and  nine  hundred  feet  deep.  The 
Sandusky,  the  Grand,  the  Cuyahoga,  the  Maumee 
and  several  smaller  rivers  empty  into  Lake  Erie. 
Such  are  the  sources  of  Niagara  River — inferior 
for  splendor,  grandeur,  and  magnificence  to  none  on 
the  globe.  The  outlet  of  ten  lakes  and  more  than 
one  hundred  rivers,  it  drains,  from  both,  a  surface 
of  over  150,000  square  miles  of  water.  Lake  Erie 
is  three  hundred  and  thirty-nine  feet  higher  than 
Lake  Ontario,  (distance  thirty-six  miles,)  and  five 
hundred  and  sixty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean.  Niagara  lliver  falls  from  Lake  Erie  to  Goat 
Island,  (twenty-two  miles)  twenty-five  feet;  from 
the  head  of  Goat  Island  to  the  main  fiill,  ( half  a 
mile)  fifty-two  feet;  perpendicular  height  of  the 
Falls  on  the  American  side,  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  feet;  on  the  Canada  side,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  eight;  from  the  Falls  to  the  "Whiilpool,  (two 
and  a  half  miles)  sixty-four;  from  the  Whirlpool  to 
Lake  Ontario,  (eleven  miles)  twenty-five;  total, 
three  hundred  and  thirty-nine.  We  will  now 
briefly  notice  some  of  the  most  important  places  we 
have  passed  from  the  head  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
to  the  Falls,  and  then  start  on  our  northern  tour. 

The  falls  of  St.  Marys  are  between  Lake  Superior 
and  Lake  Huron,  ofiering  great  hydraulic  power. 


THE   UPPER  LAKES. 


97 


which,  when  the  country  becomes  more  settled, 
must  be  extensively  used.  The  Straits  of  Mackinaw 
connect  Lake  Michigan  with  Lake  Huron.  It  is  a 
military  post.  The  Indians  assemble  here  once  a 
year  to  receive  their  annuity  from  the  United  States 
government, 

Detroit  is  eighteen  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  situ- 
ated on  a  riyer  of  the  same  name.  It  was  formerly 
a  miUtary  post  of  the  French,  and  a  great  depot 
for  the  fur  trade.  It  is  now  the  seat  of  an  extensive 
conMnerce.  Population  20,000.  The  Michigan 
Central  Railroad  commences  at  Detroit  for  Chicago, 
Distance  two  hundred  md  sixty-eight  miles. 

Amherstburgh,  (Upper  Canada,)  generally  known 
by  the  name  of  Maiden,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Detroit  River,  where,  during  the  last  war,  a  very  se- 
vere engagement  between  the  British  and  Americans 
was  fouffht.  The  bones  of  seven  hundred  of  the 
bravest  sens  of  Kentucky  lay  bleaching  upon  the 
earth,  the  victims  of  the  most  wanton  perfidy ;  but 
the  British  paid  dearly  for  this  outrage,  at  the  battle 
of  the  Thames.  s:  •^•-•ij^.^i 

Sandusky  is  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  on  a  bay  of  the 
game  name  near  the  head  of  Lake  Erie  —  a  thriv- 
ing, commercial  place.  Cars  leave  daily  for 
Cincinnati. 

Cleveland  is  handsomely  located,  and  has  great 
commercial  advantages  both  by  the  lake,  Ohio  and 
Erie  C&nn]  and  the  Cincinnati  railroad. 


1 1 

;  I 
•f 


'tfl  ? 


98  EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 

AsHTAnuLA,  (Ohio,)  has  a  tolerably  good  harbor, 
but  it  is  diilicult  for  vessels  to  get  iu,  in  time  of  a 
storm. 

DuNKiiiK,  (N.  Y.,)  of  necessity  must  bo  a  place 
of  great  importance,  it  being  the  terminus  of  the 
New  York  and  Erie  Eailroad  —  through  to  Nevr 
York  in  eighteen  hours. 

Buffalo,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie  is  the  great 
commercial  emporium  of  western  New  York.  It 
has  no  rival  in  the  Ertipire  State.  Th^  capital  in- 
vested, the  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants,  the  amount 
of  business  done,  cannot  be  surpassed.  Several  of 
the  buildings  are  grand  specimens  of  architooture, 
and  would  do  credit  to  any  city  in  America.  Pop- 
ulation 50,000.  Seven  trains  of  cars  leave  daily 
(Sundays  excepted)  for  Albany,  Saratoga,  Boston, 
pjissing  through  Rochester,  Canandaigua,  Geneva, 
Auburn,  Syracuse,  Utica,  Schenectady,  &.C. 

Distance  from  Chicago  (111.)  to  Buffalo,  via 
Michigan  Central  Railroad,  is  as  follows: 

From  Cliicago  to  New  Buffalo 50  rallefl, 

"      Xew  BuiFalo  to  Detroit 218      " 

''        "      Detroit  to  Buffalo 250      " 

Black  Rock,  four  miles  from  Buffalo,  possesses 
advantages  from  its  hydraulic  power,  but  does  not 
appear  to  be  much  improved. 

ToNAWANTA,  eleven  miles  from  the  Falls.  The 
railroad  crosses  the  Tonawanta  creek  and  Erie  canal, 
at  this  place. 


CIIAPTEIl  VII. 

Having  accompanied  tLe  tourist  to  the  sources  of 
Ni.'igara,  we  will  now  start  on  our  northern  tour  to 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  see  wlicro  the  mighty 
river  empties.  But  before  wo  leave,  wo  will  count 
up  the  distances,  which  are  as  follows:  (Canada 
side.) 

Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston 9 —    9 

Lewiston  to  Toronto ;  steamboat 43 —  52 

Toronto  to  Port  Hope 65— 1 17 

fort  IIopo  to  Cobourg 7 — 12i 

Cobourg  to  Kingston 110—231 

Kingston  to  Brockville 52 — 2S6 

Brockville  to  Ogdensburgh 1 2— 20S 

Ogdensburgh  to  Cornwall 50 — 348 

Cornwall  to  Coteau  du  Lac 41 — 3^9 

Coteau  to  Cascades 14 — 430 

Cascades  to  Lacliino 24—427 

Lachine  to  Montreal 9—436 

Blonti'cal  to  La  Prarie ;  steamboat !) —  9 

La  Piai'ie  to  St.  Johns ;  railroad li^ — 24 


mm 


m 


m 


m"^ 


H-J 


100  EVERT   MAN   EIS   OWN   GUIDE. 

St  Johns  to  Burlington ;  steamboat 75 —  99 

Burlington  to  Whitehall 75—174 

Whitehall  to  Saratoga ;  railroad 36—210 

Saratoga  to  Troy;  railroad 31—241 

Or  from  Whitcliall  to  Troy  ;  raikoad G5— 306 

Passengers  for  Lake  Georgo  stop  at  Ticoudcroga. 

Ticonderoga  to  Alexandria ;  stage 3 

Through  Lake  George  to  Caldwell ;  steamboat  36 

Caldwell  to  Saratoga ;  stage 27 

Burlington  to  Boston;  railroad 212 

Troy  to  New  York ;  steamboat 1 50 

Troy  to  Boston ;  railroad 20G 

By  tho  Canadian  mail  line,  passengers  go  through 
from  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal,  in  thirty-six  hours, 
passing  tho  Thousand  Islands,  and  the  River  St. 
Lawrence  by  daylight.  A  short  description  of  the 
places  we  pass  on  our  route  from  the  Falls*  to  Mon- 
treal, Lake  Champlain,  Saratoga,  (fee,  will  now  bo 
given. 

Lewiston  is  seven  miles  from  the  Falls,  at  tlio 
head  of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario,  lliis  place, 
together  with  Niagara  Village,  Black  Rock  and  Buf- 
falo, was  laid  in  ruins  in  the  war  of  181 2-1  o. 
"  There  can  be  little  doubt,"  says  Professor  Lyell, 
*'that  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara  poured  its  im- 
mense volumes  of  water  here,  and  by  a  constant 
abrasion  has  receded  seven  miles." 

•  Three  trains  of  cars  leave  the  Falls  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) for  Buflalo  and  Albany.  Through  to  Albany  in 
fourteen  hoxirs. 


KORTIIERN    TOUR. 


101 


QuEEXSTON  is  directly  oi>posito  liOwislon,  at  tlio 
foot  of  tho  heights  generally  known  as  the  "baltlo 
of  Queenston  Heights."  The  banks  below  the  vil- 
higo  are  seventy  icet  high ;  abo\o,  two  hundred  and 
tliirty.  The  river  is  six  hundred  feet  wide.  A  sus- 
pension bridge  is  now  conipletet.!  across  the  river, 
owned  by  a  joint  stock  con)])any  of  Canadians  and 
Americans.  Dimensions:  ten  wire  cables;  distinico 
between  towers,  1040  fett;  tolal  length  of  cables, 
12-15;  length  of  road- way,  eight  hundred  and  forty- 
nine;  width,  twenty  feet;  it  is  estimated  to  bear 
eiglit  hundred  and  thirty-live  tons  without  breaking; 
cost,  £12,000  or  800,000. 

Bkock's  Monument  is  on  Quoonston  Heights, 
(Canada  side.)  Height,  one  hundred  and  tv/ent}- 
six  feet,  and  from  top  to  the  level  of  Kiagaia  lliver, 
three  lumdi'cd  and  ninety-six;  number  of  ste])s,  one 
hundred  and  seventy.  It  was  attempicd  to  be 
blown  up  by  one  Lett,  a  Frenchman,  who  nearly 
lost  his  life,  by  this  savage  freak  of  revenge.  Tho 
following  memorial  is  inscribed  on  the  monument : 

"  Tho  legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated 
this  monument  to  tho  many  civil  and  militaiy  ser- 
vices of  tho  late  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  Kniglit,  Com- 
mander of  tho  most  honorable  Order  of  the  Bath, 
Provincial  Lieutenant  Governor  and  Major  General, 
commanding  his  ^raj(?sty's  forces  therein.  He  fell 
in  action  on  the  loth  of  October,  1812,  honored 


tJ 


If 


102 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


I?; 


I* 


m 

f'ii 


and  beloved  by  those  whom  ho  governed,  and  d^ 
plored  by  his  Sovereign,  to  whoso  services  liis  lifo 
bad  been  devoted.  His  remains  aro  deposiiod  in 
this  vault,  as  is  also  his  aid-do-carap,  liieutenant 
Colonel  John  M'Donald,  who  died  of  his  wounds, 
the  14th  of  October,  1812,  received  tho  day  before 
in  action." 

Fort  Niagara,  seven  miles  below,  (American 
side,)  stands  in  the  angle  made  by  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river  and  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Onta- 
rio. It  is  in  the  form  of  a  triangle :  one  side  com- 
mands the  river,  and  Fort  George  on  the  oj>posite 
bank ;  another  faces  the  lake ;  tho  third  is  to  defend 
the  plain  in  the  rear.  From  the  light-house,  the 
view  of  the  lake  and  the  opposite  shore  is  only  lim- 
ited by  the  power  of  the  human  vision.  Directly 
opposite  is  Fort  Massissaga;  a  little  above  is  old 
Fort  George ;  just  below  is  Newark,  burned  by  Gen- 
eral McClure  in  1813;  directly  across  the  Jake  is 
the  city  of  Toronto;  to  the  west  is  Burlington 
Heights.  If  this  old  fort*  could  speak,  it  would 
tell  of  the  battles  fought,  the  victories  won,  and  a 
tale  of  intrigues  and  horror,  that,  even  at  this  re- 
moved distance,  thrills  even  the  stoutest  nerves.  It 
was  built  by  the  French,  1725;  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  British  by  the  conquest  of  Canada; 

•  This  is  the  place  where  the  celebrated  Mr.  Morgai 
(a  free  mafion)  -was  confiDed  aftar  his  abduction. 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


103 


surrendered  by  thorn  to  United  States,  1706;  t^ken 
and  burned  by  the  British,  1813;  and  surrendered 
again  to  the  Americans  on  the  restoration  of  peace. 

Fort  George,  or  Newark,  is  directly  opposite. 
The  village  was  burnt  during  the  hist  war;  which 
event  was  followed  by  the  burning  of  several  fron- 
tier villages  on  ihe  American  shore,  aa  retaliatory. 
Fort  George,  near  the  village,  is  the  most  prominent, 
nnd  perhaps  the  only  object  of  interest  presented. 
It  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation,  and  has 
generally,  since  the  war,  been  occupied  as  a  gai'rison, 
by  a  small  number  of  British  soldiers. 

Toronto,  the  greatest  commeicial  city  in  Upper 
Canada,  is  on  an  arm  of  Lake  Ontario,  thirty-six 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River.  It  affords 
one  of  the  best  harbors  in  the  world ;  a  thousand 
ships  of  the  line  can  ride  hero  in  perfect  safety. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  independent  military  posts  in 
the  province.  Two  or  three  regiments  of  soldiers 
are  usually  stationed  here.  The  Parliament  House, 
the  governor's  residence,  and  many  other  buildings 
are  fine  specimens  of  architecture:  population 
30,000.  Daily  lines  of  steamboats  cross  to  Hamil- 
ton, Niagara,  and  down  the  lake  to  Kingston,  Mon- 
treal (fee.  The  first  place  the  boat  touches  at,  after 
l€a\ing  Toronto,  is 

Port  hope,  sixty-five  miles.    It  is  a  small  town 
9%  it^  Cfiuzdy  side,  situated  on  a  river  of  the  same 


104. 


EVERY   MAN   III3    OWN    GUIDE. 


lU-i 


I  ■ 
J 'J  I 

I 

a!..'  1 


H: 


1  ''K 1' ' 


Iff  ft: 


name.  Tlio  water-power  is  very  consideraLle.  It  ia 
one  of  tlie  best  harbors  on  the  hike. 

CoBOURG  is  seven  miles  from  Port  Hope ;  a  small 
plac'^  and  it  would  be  diilicult  to  call  it  a  seaport, 
for  nothing  of  the  kind  indicates  it;  population 
al)Out  2000. 

A  steamer  runs  from  Toronto  to  the  month  of 
Genesee  lliver,  (American  side,)  and  touches  at 
Port  Hoj^e  and  Cobouro-.  The  width  of  the  lako 
at  this  point  is  eighty  miles. 

Kingston  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  mostly 
French.  It  is  near  the  outlet  of  Lake  Ontai-io,  one 
hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Cobourof,  and  two  hun- 
dred  and  tliirty-four  from  IsMagara  h\x\\:.  It  is  a 
strong,  and  one  of  the  most  important  military  posts 
in  U})per  Canada.  The  fort  commands  the  entire 
entrance  of  the  harbors  and  the  navy-yard ;  and 
next  to  Quebec  it  is  undoubtedly  the  most  impreg- 
nable fortress  in  North  America.  If  the  tourist  has 
time,  he  would  be  amj)!^  repnid  for  spending  a  few 
hours,  or  a  day  heiT!,  as  there  are  many  things  to 
interest  and  instruct.  The  fort,  navy -yard,  mess- 
house,  barracks,  etc.,  can  ail  be  viewed  by  apulyirg 
to  the  sheriff,  or  commandant  of  the  station.  About 
six  miles  below  Kingston  connnences  the  Tliou&Tind 
Islands;  the  largest  is  Long  Island,  thirty  miles  long. 
The  most  important  cascades  are  the  Lachlne  lia2)ids 
nine  miles  above  Montreal.     The  boat,  like  a  trained 


!^ 


1 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


105 


Iti 


13 


a  small 
seaport, 
)iilatioa 

mill  of 
eh OS  at 
,lio  lako 

raostl}' 
irio,  one 

AVO  1  111  li- 
lt is  a 
\ivy  posts 
le  eiitira 
rd ;  and 
impreg- 
uiist  has 
ig  a  few 
biii-i's  to 
J,  niess- 
ipnlying 
About 
liousTiud 
lies  loiij. 
!  Hap  id  *, 
I  trained 


^rar-horsG,  Gnt':^rs  and  passes  tliroiigh  tlieni  like  an 
arrow  of  light;  nothing  can  be  more  grand  and  tor- 
ritie.  The  an<jfrv  river  dashino:  a<>:ainst  bare  rocks 
within  a  few  foot  of  tou,  th'it  liave  lifted  their 
frowniniTf  heads  for  a2:es  above  the  enrar  .1  waters, 
Bniiliiig  at  its  power,  and  bidding  defiance  to  its 
rage;  but  in  a  few  moments  yon  are  at  tlie  dock  of 
Montreal.  'Visitors  can  take  the  cars  at  Lachine  for 
I^Iontreal  if  they  choose,  or  continue  on  board  tho 
boat;  one,  in  our  opinion,  is  as  safe  as  the  other; 
fare  tho  same. 

Wo  have  passed  so  rapidly,  v,'0  had  not  time  even 
to  note  tho  difterent  places;  between  Kingston  and 
!Nfontrcal,  are  Cananoque,  Brockville,  Prescott,  Wil- 
liamsburg, Cornwall,  Lancaster,  Coteau  du  Lac; 
all  small  places  of  not  much  note,  inhabited  by 
English,  L'ish,  Scotch  and  Canadians. 

?)?  0 11  f  I*  iJ  {|  I 
Is  on  an  isl  aid  thirty  miles  long  and  six  broad. 
It  presents  an  imposiug  appearance;  it  hes  along  the 
St.  Lawrence  nearly  tliroe  miles;  a  heavy  ■wall  sur- 
rounded it,  but  was  thrown  down  by  authority  of 
government.  Tho  Hotel  Dieu,  is  a  huge  mass  of 
stone,  erect'xl  in  1644;  about  thirty  nuns,  unJer  the 
direction  of  a  superior,  reside  here;  acts  of  benefi- 
cence and  charity  occupy  their  time.  It  contains  ... 
cathedral,  the  English  church,  seminary,  convent  of 


hvi 


loa 


EVERY   MAN    1118    OWN    GUIDE. 


m 


I:' 


rv 


ill 


..ft 

'1511' 


Recollets,  and  the  sisters  of  Notre  Dame ;  the  gen- 
eral hospital,  convent  of  Gray  Nuns,  v/as  erected  in 
1753,  under  the  immediate  supervision  of  a  superior 
and  nineteen  nuns.  There  are  many  splendid  pub- 
lic buildings;  the  new  cathedral,  for  its  capacious- 
ness, style,  and  the  grandeur  of  its  decorations,  is  not 
surpassed  by  any  edifice  of  a  similar  character,  in 
America.  Nelson's  monument,  the  museum,  college, 
parade  ground,  are  all  objects  of  interest,  and  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  visitor.  A  ride  round  the 
mountains  of  Montreal  is  most  delightful ;  they  are 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river, 
which  sweeps  its  angry  waters,  in  wild  and  tumult- 
uous fury  post  you.  The  tourist  can  visit  the  nun- 
neries, and  all  the  important  places,  by  having  a 
citizen  to  accompany  him,  or  procuring  a  pass  from 
the  chaplain  or  commandant  of  the  different  stations. 
The  principal  rapids  before  you  reach  '.lontreal,  are 
the  Longue  Sault,  the  Cedars,*  and  the  cascades  of 
St.  Louis;  they  are  nine  miles  in  length,  and  are 
passed  in  less  than  twenty  minutes,  (about  twenty- 
eight  miles  per  hour.) 

•  It  was  at.  the  rapids  of  the  Cedars  that  General  Am- 
herst's brigade  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  men,  on  attempt- 
ing to  descend  in  hoats,  for  the  purpose  of  invading 
Canada,  wero  all  lost,  owing  to  the  inexperience  and  bad 
management  of  the  pilot ;  not  a  soul  survived.  The  first 
intimation  the  citizens  of  Montreal  had  of  the  invasion,  wu 
the  dead  bodies  ficmting  past  the  town. 


NORTnEIlN   TODR. 


107 


We  will  now  invite  the  tourist  to  accompany  us 
ti  Quebec ;  distance  from  Montreal  is  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles.  Splendid  steamers  ply  between 
the  two  cities  twice  a  day.  If  we  take  the  evening' 
boat,  which  leaves  immediately  on  the  arrival  of 
passengers  from  the  lake,  we  shall  arrive  at  Quebec 
about  seven  or  eight  in  the  morning.  We  first  pass 
from  Montreal,  a  foit  on  St.  Helen's  Island ;  we  then 
enter  the  rapids  of  St.  Mary.  Vemess,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  sixteen  miles  from  the 
city,' is  a  place  of  considerable  resort  on  account  of 
the  springs.  At  William  Henry,  or  the  Three  Rivers, 
one  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Montreal,  the  St 
Lawrence  is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three 
branches,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice.  About 
fifteen  miles  up  this  river,  are  the  Falls  of  Shawen- 
negame,  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  per- 
pendicular descent.  Seven  miles  below  the  Three 
Rivers,  are, Richelieu  Rapids;  the  river  is  no* 
mile  wide,  and  rushes  with  great  velocity. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  Gibraltar  of  Amer- 
ica. The  towers  and  lofty  spires  of  this  famed  city, 
situated  on  a  soHd  rock  three  hundi'ed  and  fifty  feet 
high,  bursts  upon  the  view.  Cape  Diamond,  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Que- 
bec, Point  Levi  on  a  high,  precipitous  rock  to  thd 
right — and  here  we  are  at  last 


^,': 


i 


I 


If', 


I. 


108 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


B 


I'!' 


I'il 


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Q  i|  e  b  e  0 

Is  situated  oii  a  lilgli  point  of  land,  formed  by  tlio 
coiitlucnco  of  tbe  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Cliarles. 
Tlio  city  is  divided  into  two  portion!*,  called  the  up- 
per and  lower  towns.  The  npper  pait,  the  im])rcg- 
naltle  fortress,  is  reached  by  five  gates ;  on  the  side 
toward  the  St.  Lawrence  thei'e  is  only  one  way  to 
enter  the  city,  and  tliat  is  tlirough  Prescott  gate; 
through  th's  gate  the  commercial  transactions  of  the 
city  are  carried  on.  Pal:ice  gate  leads  to  the  Ash- 
ley Barracks;  St.  Louis  gate  opens  to  the  plains 
of  Abraham,  where  Wolfe  and  ^Montgomery  fell. 
If  we  have  time  we  Avill  visit  the  catholic  church;  it 
is  open  at  all  hours  of  the  day.  Among  the  pic- 
tures are,  the  Confession ;  the  apostle  Paul  in  his  ex- 
tatic  vision;  the  Saviour  ministered  unto  by  the 
angels;  the  flight  of  Joseph  and  Mary;  the  Pic- 
deemer  and  the  cross;  the  nativity  of  Christ;  the 
Saviour  outraged  by  the  soldiers;  and  the  day  of 
Pentecost.  The  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  V/olfe  and  Montcalm,  sixty-eight  feet  higli,  v>-ith 
two  Latin  inscriptions,  luis  its  attractions.  The  nun- 
nery and  church  occupy  a  space  of  eight  acres,  in- 
closed by  a  high  wall  of  stone;  the  inmates  are,  one 
superior,  foity-tive  aspirants,  and  nine  novices; 
they  are  more  strict  than  any  other  con»  :nt  in  Can- 
ada. Persons  of  high  distinction  only,  are  permitted 
to  exrmirio  the  domestic  arrangements  of  this  place; 


mmmnf 


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NORTUERN   TOUR. 


109 


but  on  application  to  the  Chaplain,  strangers  gener- 
ally get  p«i-mission.  There  are  the  paintings  of 
some  of  the  popes;  the  birth  of  Emmanuel;  the 
Saviour  showing  his  heart  to  the  religeuses;  the 
Saviour  taken  down  from  the  cross;  a  carero  of 
Christians  captured  by  the  Algerines;  Lewis  XIII 
king  of  France. 

Chapel  of  the  Hotel  Dieu.  In  the  convent  the 
sisterhood  reside  —  one  superior,  thirty-five  religi- 
euses,  four  novices,  and  one  postulate  —  every  thing 
in  order.  But  we  must  not  dwell  long  here;  we 
have  other  scones  to  \lsit,  then  hasten  back  to 
Montreal  and  Saratoga. 

Falls  of  Montmorenci  ai-e  eight  miles  from 
Quebec — a  good  caniiigc-road  and  delightful  ride; 
pei-pendicular  height  of  the  Falls  two  hundred  and 
forty  feet;  width,  one  hundred.  They  are  beautiful 
and  grand,  impressing  the  mind  with  sentiments  of 
awe  and  sublimity.  When  viewed  from  below, 
this  mighty  cascade  is  resplendent  with  all  that  can 
be  realized,  by  the  river  pouring  its  angi-y  waters, 
into  the  dai-k,  deep  and  gloomy  precipice.  No  part 
of  these  Falls,  however,  are  as  gi-and,  sublime  or  ter- 
rific, as  the  Center  Fall,  or  Cave  of  the  Winds  at 
Niagara;  after  having  viewed  them  from  the  upper 
window  of  the  mill,  we  cross  the  bridge,  and  passing 
along  under  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  we  are  sud- 
denly directly  in  front  of  the  whole  cataract.     Here^. 


T 


110 


EVERY  MAN   ffiS   OWN  GUIDE. 


in  trio  opinion  of  tlio  wnter,  is  decidedly  tlio  best 
view  wo  bavo  o^  tbis  wonderful  fall.  From  tbo  top 
of  tbis  bill,  Quebec,  witb  its  lofty  towers,  foitlfica- 
tions,  sblpping,  tbe  St.  Lawrence  rolling  toward  tbo 
ocean,  Point  Levi,  Angel  Garden,  and  many  otber 
points  of  interest  are  to  bo  seen.  Tbrco  bundred 
and  sixty  miles  below  Quebec,  at  tbo  nioutb  of  tbo 
St.  Lawrence,  tbo  river  is  one  bundred  and  fifteen 
miles  wide,  pouring  its  waters  into  tlio  Gulf  of  SL 
Lawrence,  (tbree  bundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and 
one  bundi'ed  and  fifty  broad,)  by  tbreo  diilerent 
outlets. 

On  returning  to  Quebec,  we  will  pass  tbo  Loretto 
Indian  Villtige  —  tbe  distance  is  about  tbe  same. 
We  will  now  step  on  boaid  tbe  morning  boat,  wbich 
"will  land  us  in  Montreal  in  tbe  evenin<x. 

Tbo  St.  Lawrence  Ilall  is  considered  tbo  best  in 
tbe  city ;  after  refresbment  and  sleep,  we  will  start 
in  tbe  morning  for  Saratoga.  Tbe  distances  are  aa 
follows : 


k 


By  steamboat  from  Montreal  to 
La  Prairie 9—    9 

By  railroad  to 

St.  Johns 14—^3 

Isle  Anx  Noix 14—37 

RQuse'8  Point ^.10—47 

Cheecy 13—60 


iM 


NOiailJiUN   TOUR,  111 

ri.itlsbijiw .15_  75 

I'ort  K(;iit 15—  90 

Biiiliiiglon 11—101 

Split  Kock 12—113 

Essex 2—115 

Batson  Harbor 12— 127 

Crown  Point 12—139 

Ticondoroga 12 — 151 

Whitehall 15—166 

Suratoga 3G— 202 

At  La  Pr;  airie,  nine  miles  from  Montreal,  wo  leave 
tlie  steamboat,  and  step  aboard  tlio  cars  for  St.  Johns ; 
distance,  fourteen  miles.  This  is  quite  a  thriving, 
but  a  small  place;  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  steam- 
bout  navigation  on  the  northern  bounds  of  Lako 
Chaiiiplain ;  a  \ci"y  important  point  in  tho  French 
and  i-evolul ionary  Avars;  population  about  1500. 

Lake  Ciiamflaix.  The  hno  between  Vermont 
and  Xew  York  passes  through  the  center  of  this 
lake;  it  is  one  hundred  and  forty-one  miles  long, 
and  fifteen  broad.  * 

At  Mount  Lidependenco,  twenty-four  miles  from 
Whitehall,  there  is  scarcely  room  to  tui-n  tho  boat, 
tho  lake  bdng  narrowed  down  to  a  small  river. 
The  ruins  of  the  old  forts  at  Ticonderoga  and  Crown 
Point  are  distinctly  to  bo  seen. 

Isle  Aux  Koix,  fourteen  miles  from  St.  Johns,  as 
a  military  post,  has  alternately  been  in  the  possession 
of  the  French,  the  English  and  the  Americans,    As 


■ 


\\ 


^  OWN   nUIDB, 

early  as  lV75,  General  Scliuyler  and  Montgomery 
passed  down  this  lake  to  St.  Johns,  on  a  flotilla  made 
of  logs. 

Rouse's  Point  is  on  the  outlet  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  ten  miles  from  Isle  Aux  Noix.  It  is  a 
strongly  foilificd  j)laco,  but,  according  to  an  agrec- 
men*i  of  the  British  and  American  commissionoi's, 
to  establish  the  boundary  lino  between  Maine  and 
Canada  this  place  belongs  to  the  British. 

It  is  forty  miles  from  Rouse's  Point  to  Burlington ; 
here  ar<*  two  raih-oad  routes  to  Boston:  the  northern 
passes  through  Mount  Pelica. 

Distance  from  Ogdcnsburg,  on  the  Rircr  St. 
Lawrence  to  Boston,  fia  the  Wbife  MjtitiL!.  i  is 
four  hundred  aai  feu  r\'<\,  .\*  foHci^s: 

By  raihoad  to 

Rouse's  Point 1 118— MA 

EFsex  Junction 47.-.3r..'i 

Westfield 43— 20a 

White  River 42— 2GP 

Concoid 69—329 

Manchester 17—346 

Nassau 18—364 

LoweU 15—379 

Boston 25—404 


ntgomerj 
tilla  made 

ce  Cham< 
It  is  a 

an  anrree- 
riissionc'i's, 
laine  and 


iirlington ; 
3  nortliern 


Riror   St. 


8—?  I« 

3— 90a 
3— 2r,Q 
9—329 
7—346 
B— 3G4 
3—379 
)— 404 


NORTHERN   TOUR.  113 

Distuice  from  Ogdenslnirjr,  on  tho  St.  Lawrence, 
to  Boston,  via  Burlington,  Kutlaud,  Bellows  FaUs, 
(fee,  is  thrco  hundred  and  ninety-tbreo  miles,  aa 
follows : 

By  railroad  to 

Rouse's  Point 118—118 

Burlington 40—158 

Rutland 67—225 

Bellows  FaUs 53-278 

Keono 22—300 

Ashburnbam 32—332 

Fitcbberg 11—313 

Ci'oton  Junction 15 — 358 

Boston 35—393 

On  tho  northern  route  to  Boston  from  BurK-igton, 
travelers  wishing  to  visit  tho  White  Mountains  leav« 
at  the  White  River  Junction.  Daily  stages  run  to 
the  foot  of  the  White  Mountains;  distant  forty 
miles.  When  these  lofly  piles,  rearing  their  majes- 
tic heads  far  above  the  clouds,  fii-st  burst  upon  th« 
bewildered  gaze  of  the  traveler,  the  effect  is  perfectly 
overpowering;  ho  feels  that  language  is  but  a  poor 
vehicle  to  convey  the  emotions  of  awe,  grandeur  and 
sublimity  that  fill  his  soul,  and  lie  sinks  back  upon 
himself  amid  the  immensity  of  God's  works.  There 
is  no  place,  perhaps,  where  ""the  mind  is  more  com- 
pletely bewildered,  in  endeavoring  to  grasp  at  th« 
illimitable  landscape  that  is  presented  to  his  view. 
They  are  the  loftiest  in  America  except  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 


!♦ 


114  EVKRY    MAN    IITS    OWN    nCTDE. 

The  lioiglit  of  the  j)i'iii('i['!il  jxiaks,  al>ovf  tho 
level  of  CoiiiK'cticut  Kiver,  li.ia  been  eaitiujUcd 
by   ciigiuoerd   as  lullows: 

Motnit  W:isliini;ton Mf)?}  feet. 

Lloiiiit  AdaiiiH r).'}Hi     " 

Mount  Jcll't-'r.son o^lilJ     " 

Mount  Monruc 4!m    " 

Mount  Quincy 4 171     " 

From,  the  top  of  M(juiit  Washington,  tho  Allantic 
Ocean  is  seen  in  all  its  boundless  majesty,  illimitable 
to  tho  power  of  human  vision. 

Having  made  this  short  digression  from  the  cor- 
rect route  to  Saratoga,  -sve  will  return  and  commeuco 
our  travels  from  Rouse's  Point. 

Tlie  villan;e  of  Plattsuurg  is  on  tho  Avest  sido  of 
Lako  Cham})lain,  at  tho  mouth  of  tho  Saranac 
River,  twenty -seven  miles  from  Piouse's  Point.  It  is 
memorable  for  the  celebr.ated  victories  achieved  in 
front  of  tho  tower  between  the  British  and  American 
forces  both  on  laud  and  water.  Commodore  Mc- 
Donongh  and  Macomb,  (Americans,)  gained  a 
complete  triumph  over  George  Provost  and  Com- 
modore Downie,  (British,)  in  tho  war  of  1 8 1 2.  Tlie 
Americans  were  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  awaited, 
in  awful  suspense,  the  arrival  of  tiie  British  fleet, 
which  sooon  hove  in  sight.  On  the  morning  of  the 
11th  of  September,  1814,  the  roar  of  a  single  can- 
non came  booming  ever  tho  waters;  this  was  tha 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


115 


'4U'i\i\\  for  a  fV(Mioi;il  attack  on  land  and  water,  and 
tlii5  hcots  were  soon  comyiiiin-lcd  in  sad,  terrillc  htrif<3, 
Tlie  number  of  British  eiig:i;;(id  under  8ir  Georgo 
Provost  was  14,000;  of  the  Americans  under 
Geneial  Macoml),  only  oOOO;  but,  Spartan-liko, 
(ivcry  American  was  determined  to  die  b_^  Lis  colors, 
ratiier  tliati  surrender,  and  tlio  stripes  and  the  tiars 
waved  in  triumpli  over  the  heads  of  the  free  and 
the  biave.  The  loss  of  the  Lriti.sh  was  2500  men, 
besides  bajxgago  and  ammuuitiou;  that  of  the  Amer- 
icans coi].sideia]>Iy  less. 

EuKLiNGTOX,  as  ii  diverging  point  of  the  rail- 
roads, is  situated  on  tho  east  side  of  Lako  Cliam- 
jtlain,  twenty-live  miles  southerly  from  Piattsbiirg. 
This  IS  a  fine  New  England  vill.ijr  *  which  has  its 
attractions  to  tho  visitor  seeino:  it  for  the  first  time. 
From  ]]urliiigton  to  Whitehall  is  seventy-five  miles — 
the  terminus  of  r.teamboat  na\igation  on  tho  south- 
ern point  of  Lako  Champlain,  sevonty-threo  miles 
north  of  Albany.  From  "Whitehall  to  Saratoga, 
(railroad,)  thirty-nine  miles.  Visitors  wishing  to  pjuss 
through  L.'ike  Georgo,  on  their  way  to  the  Springs, 
stop  at  Ticonderoga ;  this  route  will  bo  described  in 
another  place;  at  present  we  will  pursue  our  course 
direct;  cars  leave  AVh it chall  every  morning  on  the 
an-ival  of  tho  Lake  Champlain  boat",  and  reach 
Saiatoga  Springs  in  time  for  dinner. 


Ml 


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1.1       t 


I       f. 


116  XVEBT  ION   mS   OWN   QUIDS. 

The  intermediate  points  and  distances  are  as 
follows :  i, 

From  Whitehall  to 

Fort  Ann    11—11 

Sandy  Hill 10—21         ! 

Fortville 7—28 

Milton 4—32 

Saratoga 7—39 

Saratoga  Springs,  This  place  of  fitohionable 
resoii,  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  has  attained  great 
celebrity  from  the  medicinal  properties  of  its  waters. 
They  he  m  43  degrees  10  minutes  north  latitude, 
and  73 1  degrees  west  longitude  from  Washington, 
on  a  line  directly  east  from  '  Niagara  Falls.  The 
Springs  immediately  in  the  vicinity  of  Saratoga,  are 
twelve  in  number;  those  most  frequented  are  the 
Congress,  the  Iodine  or  Waltien,  Putnam's  Congress, 
the  Monroe,  the  Hamilton,  the  Flat  Rock,  the  High 
Eock,  the  Columbian  and  the  Washington.  A  new 
spring,  possessing,  it  is  said,  great  medicinal  proper- 
ties, was  discovered  in  1339;  it  is  of  a  brackish 
taste,  and  not  as  pleasant  as  many  others.  The  ten 
iSprings  are  a  little  north  ci  the  village,  and  are 
justly  celebrated,  and  a  place  of  great  resort  Con- 
gress Spring  was  first  discovered  in  r702;  though  the 
Indians  knew,  and  held  thorn  in  high  veneration, 
Icrg  before  the  white  man  markc .  the  soil.  It  is 
at  the  south  end  of  the  village;  it  was  seen  issuing 


ill 

' -I 


!  f 


'I 


i 


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I 


pi  I 


t 


IB    ^ 

pi  ' 

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;| ;. 

m 

THE    CAV£    OF  THE   V^IND^ 


KOBTHERK   TOUR. 


117 


^  ! 


i!  I 


from  the  crevice'of  a  rock  about  fifteen  feet  from  its 
present  location.  Here  it  boiled  up,  and  its  water?, 
sparkling  in  the  sunbeam,  continued  to  flow,  until  art 
V3gan  to  lay  its  plastic  hand  upon  the  works  of  na- 
ture, in  the  shape  of  improvements;  the  spring  re- 
tired back  upon  its  fountain,  and  nearly  ceased  to 
flow ;  but  collecting  its  energies,  it  soon  broke  out 
again  near  where  it  is  now.  There  is  a  deep  tube 
sunk  into  this  spring,  fifteen  feet  long,  which  efiect- 
ually  screens  it  from  sand,  sediment  and  fresh  water 
that  might  be  oozing  through  the  rocks.  Doctor 
Steel,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  chemists  of  the 
age,  says,  "a  gallon  of  water  which  he  analyzed, 
contained  the  following  substances:  tiz,  chloride  of 
sodium,  three  hundred  and  eighty -five  grains ;  hy- 
driodate  of  soda,  thirty-one  and  a  half  grains ;  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  nearly  nine  grains;  bicarbonate 
of  magneaia,  nearly  ninety-six  grains ;  carbonate  of 
lime,  a  little  more  than  ninety-eight  grains ;  carbo- 
nate of  iron,  upwards  of  five  grains;  silex,  one  and 
i  half  grains;  carbonic  acid  gas,  Chree  hundred  and 
f^.even  cubic  inches;  atmospheric  air,  seven  cubic 
inches."  Perhaps  there  is  no  spot  on  the  globe 
where  we  can  se«  a  greater  diversity  of  character, 
than  at  the  Congress  Spring;  the  halt,  the  gay,  the 
giddy,  the  blind,  the  aged,  the  decrepit  and  the 
beautiful  are  crowding  on  to  this  Siloam,  expecting 
to  lie  healed  from  all  their  infirmitiefv  of  gratify  the 


"■f 


I    i 


lii    i 


fi  ( 


!i  ; 


:'   f 


118 


EVERT   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


eye  ly  seeing  the  fashion  of  the  four  quarters  of 
the  globe.  Very  few  persons,  I  think,  relish  this 
water  when  first  tasted,  but  habit  familiarizes,  and 
we  soon  become  fond  of  it.  The  Iodine  was  dis- 
corered  in  1838,  near  the  High  Rock  Spring.  The 
water  is  remarkably  pure,  sparkling  and  j)ungent^ 
but  r~  imuch  less  of  iron.  Professor  Emerson  says, 
"one  g  1  of  this  water  contains  muriate  of  soda, 
one  Imndred  and  thirty-seven  grains;  carbonate  of 
lime,  twenty-six  grains ;  carbonate  of  iron,  one  grain ; 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  seventy-five  grains;  carbo- 
nate of  soda,  two  grains;  hydriodate  of  soda,  or 
iodine,  three  and  a  half  grains;  carbonic  acid  gas, 
three  hundred  and  thirty  cubic  inches;  atmospheric 
air,  four  inches.  Though  this  spring  has  not  been 
much  visited  until  of  late,  yet  it  bids  fair  to  equal 
many  of  its  neighbors,  and  doubtless  will  hold  a 
high  rank  among  the  fountains  of  health.  A  few 
rods  from  this  is  a  very  strong  sulphur  spring,  which 
is  used  extensively  in  some  cases.  Putnam's  Con- 
gress is  near  the  Hamilton  Spring.  Here  its  heal- 
ing watere  flowed  for  years  unnoticed,  but  it  is  now 
popular  and  much  frequented. 

The  High  Rock  Spring  is  nearly  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  north  of  the  Congress.  The  rock  out  of 
which  this  spring  boils  is  a  curiosity;  nine  feet 
diameter,  five  high.  The  particles  of  sand,  formed 
by  some  chemical  process,  were  once  raised  by  the 


NORTnERN  TOUR. 


119 


action  of  the  water  below,  and  instantly  flowed  over 
the  top.  The  aperture  is  nine  inches.  The  water 
does  not  flow  over  the  summit  as  formerly,  but  rises 
within  two  feet  of  the  top.  This  may  be  attributa- 
ble to  the  fact,  that  it  has  found  a  passage  between 
the  decayed  rock,  and  the  loose  earth  out  of  which 
it  was  formed. 

Between  the  Iodine  in  the  upper  village,  and  the 
Washington  in  the  lower,  are  most  of  the  mineral 
spnngs  in  which  this  place  abounds.  No  chemist,  as 
yet,  has  been  enabled  to  discover  ihe  causes  which 
have  produced  these  wonderful  results.  Some  say 
it  is  the  i-esiilt  ot  some  "  great  laboratory,"  but  where 
this  miglity  worki^hop  is,  or  what  is  its  process  of 
working,  is  a  mystery.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  en- 
large upon  the  many  and  convenient  bathing-houses 
erected  at  neai-ly  all  these  s])rings,  for  the  conven- 
ience and  heallli  of  the  visiter.  It  is  said  by  those 
whose  opinion  is  entitled  to  respect,  that  the  prop- 
erties of  the  waters,  both  of  Saratoga  and  Ballston 
Spa,  are  noarl}''  the  same,  varying  only  as  to  the 
quantities  of  the  different  articles  held  in  solution. 
They  are  called  by  the  chemists  acidulous  saline,  and 
acidulous  chalybeate;  of  tb :  former,  are  the  Con- 
gress, Iodine,  Monroe,  Putnam's  Congress,  the  Ham- 
ilton and  High  Rock  at  Saratoga;  and  of  the  latter, 
are  the  Columbian,  Flat  Rock,  and  Washington'  at 
Saratoga,  and  the  Old  Spring,  and  Sans  Souci  at 

8 


i  I 


130 


BTERT  MAli   filS   OWN   GUIDl. 


\ 


I'. 


:<l 


<    I 


Ballston.  The  waters,  all  to  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
contain  muriate  of  soda,  hydriodate  of  soda,  carbo- 
nate of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime,  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia, oxide  of  iron,  and  some  of  them  a  small 
quantity  of  silica  and  alumina.  Great  quantities  of 
carbonic  acid  gas  are  contained  in  them,  giving  to 
them  their  sparkling  and  lively  appearance. 

The  late  Doctor  Steel,  in  his  geological  report  of 
the  county  of  Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since, 
says,, that  "the  temperature  of  the  waters,  in  all  these 
wells,  is  nearly  the  same,  ranging  from  48  to  53  de- 
grees on  Fahrenheit's  scale ;  and  they  suffer  no  sensi- 
ble alteration  from  any  variation  in  the  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere;  neither  do  the  variations  of  the 
seasons  appear  to  have  much  effect  on  the  quantity 
of  water  produced, 

"The  watera  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when 
first  dipped,  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  goo  cham- 
pagne. The  saline  waters  bear  bottling  very  well, 
particularly  the  Congress,  immense  quantities  of 
which  are  put  up  in  this  way,  and  transported  to 
various  parts  of  the  world;  not,  however,  without  a 
considerable  loss  of  its  gaseous  property,  which  ren- 
ders its  taste  much  more  insipid  than  when  drank 
at  the  well.  The  chalybeate  water  is  also  put  up 
in  bottles  for  transportation,  but  a  very  trifling  loss  of 
its  gas  produces  an  immediate  precipitation  of  its 
iron ;  and  hence  this  water,  when  it  has  been  bottlod 


KORTHERK  TOUR. 


121 


for  some  time,  frequently  becomes  turbid,  and 
finally  loses  every  trace  of  ion ;  this  substance  fixing 
itself  to  the  walls  of  the  bottle. 

*'The  most  prominent  and  perceptible  eflfecta  of 
these  waters,  when  taken  into  the  stomach,  are  ca- 
thartic, diuretic  and  tonic.  They  are  much  used  in 
h  great  variety  of  coraplnints;  but  the  diseases  in 
which  they  are  most  efficacious  are  jaundice  and 
bilious  affections  generally,  dyspepsia,  habitual  cos- 
tiveness,  hypochondriacal  complaints,  depraved  ap- 
petite, calculous  and  enphritic  complaints,  phagedenic 
or  ill-conditioned  ulcers,  cutaneous  eruptions,  chronio 
rheumatism,  some  species  or  states  of  gout,  some 
species  of  dropsy,  scrofula,  paralysis,  scorbutic  affec- 
tions and  old  scorbutic  ulcers,  amenorrhea,  dysme- 
norrhea and  clorosis.  In  phthisis,  and  indeed  all 
other  pulmonary  affections  arising  from  primary 
diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  waters  are  manifestly  in- 
jurious, and  evidently  tend  to  increase  the  violence 
of  the  disease, 

"Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  the  subject 
of  the  source  of  these  singular  waters;  but  no  re- 
searches have  as  yet  unfolded  the  mystery.  The 
large  proportion  of  common  salt  found  among  their 
constituent  properties  may  be  accounted  for,  without 
much  difficTi^ty  —  all  the  salt  springs  of  Europe,  as 
well  as  those  of  America,  being  found  in  geological 
situations  exactly  corresponding  to  these;  but  tbd 

T 


i 


122 


EVERY  MAN  HIS   OWN   O.VTM, 


I 


li  .(■. 


! 


production  of  ^be  unexampled  quantity  of  carboni* 
acid  gas,  the  medium  through  which  the  other  ar- 
ticles are  held  in  solution,  is  yet,  and  probably  will 
remain  a  subject  of  mere  speculation.  The  low  and 
regular  temperature  of  the  water  seems  to  forbid  the 
idea  that  it  is  the  effect  of  subterranean  heat,  as 
many  have  supposed,  and  the  total  absence  of  any' 
mineral  acid,  excepting  the  muriatic,  which  is  com- 
bined with  soda,  does  away  the  possibility  of  ita 
being  the  effect  of  any  combination  of  that  kind. 
Its  production  is  therefore  truly  unaccountable." 

It  would  be  unnecessary,  perhaps,  to  enter  into 
detail  of  the  public  houses ;  tlio  visitor  will  at  once 
see  that  they  are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  United 
States.  Among  the  principal  are  the  Congress  Hall, 
Union  Hall,  Pavilion,  United  States.  Among  the 
boarding  houses,  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  are  the 
Adelphi,  Columbian  Hotel,  "Washington  Hall,  Rail- 
road House,  Prospect  Hall,  Highland  HalL  Price  of 
board  at  the  first  class  houses  is  from  foil,  to  twelve 
and  fifteen  dollars  per  week.  w  i 

Amusements.  Fishing  in  a  small  pond  kiout  two 
miles  from  the  village  is  resorted  to  by  ««no;  trout 
in  considerable  quantities  are  taken.  Oth^m  prefer 
a  sail  on  the  lake  four  miles  from  the  fc^ii.ij.^s; 
nine  miles  long,  three  broad.  Sail-boats  0/  af»^ry 
descffpUon,  are  fitted  up  in  good  style  for  parti  ♦»  of 
pleasure.    Bemus'  Heights^  eight  miles  fnnn  the 


NORTnERN   TOUR. 


123 


11 


lake,  will  ever  bo  sacred  in  the  memory  of  Amori- 
caas,  as  the  phice  where  General  liurgoyno  Burron- 
(Jered  his  entire  force  to  General  Gates,  in  the 
revolutionary  contest,  OctoLer  iVth,  1117.  The 
two  actions  that  preceded  this  surrender  were  fought 
on  the  19th  of  September  of  Lh-^  °ame  year. 

Cotillion  parties,  in  all  the  large  houses  at  Sara- 
toga, are  attended  almost  every  night.  Elegant 
carriages  will  convey  parties  to  any  point  of  interest, 
at  a  moderate  price.  : 

It  is  now  time  to  return  to  Lake  Georfje.  Some 
of  our  party  we  left  at  Ticonderoga;  peihaps  we 
may  meet  them.  Lake  George  is  twenty-five  mile^ 
from  Saratoga.  The  water  of  this  lake  is  remarkably 
transparent,  and  it  is  said  tliat  a  sixpence  can  bo 
seen  at  a  depth  of  twenty  feet.  The  Catholics,  we 
are  told,  carry  theso  waters  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 
for  religious  purposes.  The  waters  of  Lake  George 
are  discharged  into  Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonderoga, 
by  a  small  river,  which,  in  two  miles,  falls  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet.  Large  quantities  of  most  excellent 
fish  are  taken  fi-om .  its  watere ;  such  as  trout,  bass, 
<kc.  It  is  dotted  with  small  islands,  comporting  in 
number,  it  is  believed  by  some,  with  the  days  of  the 
year.  Diamond  Island  once  contained  a  fortification. 
There  is  a  beautiful  summer-house  on  Tea  Island, 
for  the  amusement  of  parties  of  j>leasure,  which  is 
seen  from  the  head  of  the  lake ;  the  best  view  of  the 


124 


EVERY  MAN  His   OWN   GUIDE. 


W 


I 


lake,  in  our  opinion,  is  near  the  remains  of  old  Fort 
George.  Here,  General  Burgoyne  made  a  depot  of 
bis  military  stores  for  some  time  in  the  revolution- 
ary war.  Here  are  our  friends  we  left  at  Ticonder- 
oga  about  a  week  since  They  have  enjoyed  fine 
sport  upon  the  waters  of  this  limpid  lake.  There  w 
a  small,  but  very  neat  steamer  which  pli<'8  daily  from 
the  head  of  Lake  George,  (Caldwell,)  to  the  foot, 
connecting  ;vith  the  steamers  on  Lake  Champlain. 
From  where  the  boat  lands  to  Ticondeniga  is  three 
miles.  Carriages  are  always  in  readiness.  The 
boat  returns  every  evening.  Length  of  the  lake  is 
thirty-six  miles.  Fourteen  miles  from  Caldwell,  is 
Tongue  Mountain.  The  Narrows  commence  here ; 
about  seven  miles  long,  one  and  a  half  miles  wide 
Five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  line  have  been  let 
down  without  finding  bottom.  Black  Mountain, 
half  way  down  the  lake,  is  on  the  east  side.  It  is 
ascertained  by  actual  measurement  to  be  2200  feet 
high.  A  short  distance  from  this  is  an  exhibition  of 
mountain  sceneiy,  unsui-passed  on  this  continent.  The 
rolling  appearance  of  the  mountain  —  the  deep  and 
almost  impenetrable  caverns  that  yawn  out  before 
you  at  every  step;  the  wild,  the  beautiful  and  ter- 
rific grandeur  of  th6  whole  place,  combine  to  fill  the 
mind  with  solemn  awe  and  admiration.  Solitude 
holds  her  empire  here,  undistui  bed  by  the  convul- 
sions that  agitate  the  world ;  the  fall  of  empires  or 


i 


I 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


125 


kS 


tliG  ruin  of  kinirdoins  is  alike  iiulicedcd  and    uu- 
knowii.     Siibbatli-diiy  Point   is   twenty-four  miles 
from  the  hoad  of  the  lake,  on  the  west  side.     Dur- 
ing the  I'rencli  war,  about  three  hundred  and  fifty 
Englisli  landed  hero  on  Sabbath  morning.     They 
were  iTi.s(antly  surrounded  by  the  Indians  and  every 
soul  to  a  man,  i)erished  by  the  tomahawk  and  scalp- 
ing knife  —  hence   the  name.     In   three  miles  we 
pjLss  a  small  island  called  the  Scotch  Jionnet;  three 
and  a  half  miles  below,  on  the  west  shore,  we  ap- 
proach the  city  of  Hague,  composed  of  two  houses 
and  a  saw-mill;  this  is  the  widest  part  of  the  lake, 
viz.,' four  miles.     Rogers'  Slide  is  three  miles  further 
down;  here.  Colonel  Rogci-s,  an  inveterate  foe  to  the 
Indians   in   the    French   war,  was  forced   by   tlie 
savages,  in  the  winter,  over  a  smooth  rock  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  on  an  angle  of  thirty  degi-ees.     He 
slid  down  with  the  velocity  of  light,  and  landed 
safely  on  the  ice  below.     Anthony's  Nose  opposite, 
by  drawing  a  little  on  the  imagination,  will  be  found 
similar  to  one  of  the  same  name  on  the  Hudson. 
Prisonei-s'  Island   is  two   miles   further;   prisoners 
were  confined  here  during  the  French  war.     Lord 
Howe's  Point  is  directly  west ;  ho  landed  upon  thia 
spot  but  a  short  time  before  the  battle  at  Ticonde- 
roga,  at  which  he  was  killed.     He  was  brother  to 
Lord  How^e,  who  commanded  the  British  forces  at 
^Philadelphia,  in  tie  revolutionary  war.    One  mile 


120 


EVERT    MAJf    Ills    OWfC    OUIDK. 


m 


further,  an«l  tlio  bout  stops;  lioro  is  the  laiuling  and 
outlet  of  Luke  George.  Three  inilo»  tVoui  tin- 
landing  is 

TicoNDEROOA,  the  far-famed  place,  memorable 
for  its  thousand  daring  exploits,  and  bold  achieve- 
ments. Mount  Indepetidunce,  with  '\\a  ruins,  is  here. 
Mount  Defiance,  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
looks  down  in  frowning  contempt  upon  the  world 
below.  Here  General  Burgoyne  lodged  his  artillery 
in  1777,  and  here  the  Americans  were  compelled 
to  evacuate  Ticonderoga.  Many  of  the  old  walls, 
though  mouldering  in  gloomy  silence,  are  still  to  be 
seen ;  the  maijazines  of  this  oKl  fort  are  nearly  en- 
tire; the  walls,  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 
Lake  Champlain,  are  still  standing.  A  subterra- 
neous passage  leads  from  the  south-west  corner  of 
the  fort,  about  thirty  rods  long,  through  which  the 
celel)rat(>d  Colonel  Allen  made  his  way,  and  took  a 
British  oflicer  while  in  bed;  when  asked  by  what 
authority  he  did  it,  he  re))lied,  "by  the  authority  of 
the  cHiat  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Connrress." 

There  aie  several  old  foils  and  fortifications  in 
this  vicinity  still  to  be  seen;  the  walls  of  one  near 
the  lake  are  sixty  feet  high.  As  early  as  1758, 
General  Aborcronibie,  with  two  thousand  men,  at- 
tacked Ticonderoga  with  great  skill  and  bravery, 
but  wns  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  his  entire  araiy. 
The  Fiench  abandoned  this  position  to  the  En;j;lisb 


II  i 


I 


NORTHERN  TOUB. 


127 


in  1759.  Colonel  Ethan  Allon,  whose  indomitable 
cournge  has  nevor  been  surpassed  since  the  days  of 
Rome,  took  Ticonderoga  by  storm  in  1775.  In 
1777  it  was  abandoned.  General  Burgoyne  pur- 
sued the  American  foi-ce  as  far  as  Whitehall  and  to ' 
Fort  Ann,  which  soon  resulted  in  the  surrender  of 
his  entire  army  to  General  Gates — one  of  the  most 
glorious  epochs  in  the  revolutionary  struggle,  giving 
to  the  colonies  a  foothold,  a  permanence  and  a 
standing,  which  never  for  a  moment  has  been  shaken. 
The  banner  was  thrown  to  the  breeze,  and  waves 
in  triumph  over  the  heads  of  the  1  oe  and  the 
brave. 

"We  must  now  leave  our  fnends  and  return  to  the 
Falls  to  accompany  another  party  via  Lake  Ontario, 
(American  side.)  We  prefer  the  route  from  Sara- 
toga, via  Auburn,  Geneva,  Canandaigua,  Batavia» 
BufFjilo,  (fee,  because  it  is  the  most  expeditious. 
Distance  from  the  Springs  to  the  Falls  by  cars  is 
three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles.  By  this 
route  we  reach  Niagara  in  twenty-two  hours.  As 
we  pass  we  notice  Ballston  Spa,  seven  miles  from 
Saratoga ;  the  waters,  according  to  Doctor  Steel,  are 
nearly  similar  to  those  of  Saratoga.  The  first 
spring  discovered  is  in  a  valley,  surrouuded  by  sand- 
hills, on  a  branch  of  Kayaderoseras  creek,  inclosed 
by  an  iron  railing;  New  Washington  Spring  is  but 
a  few  rods  distant;  the  Sans  Souci  Spring  is  the 


I  it  ; 


'i 


>.i 


128 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


most  frequented.  The  Wasliington  Foiintaiu  flowed 
over  the  surface  for  mary  years,  but  iu  )  S21  disap- 
peared entii'cly.  Low's  Spring,  Park  bj^i  ing,  and 
several  othera  in  the  n'^ighborhuod,  ^\ere  much  vis- 
ited in  foiTQcr  yeai-s,  but  hitterly  are  measurably 
deserted. 

Schenectady,  fourteen  miles  iroin  Albany,  and 
twenty-two  from  Saratoga,  lies  on  the  Llohawk 
liivcr.  It  was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  iu  IGOOj 
and  nearly  all  of  its  inhabitants  penshed  by  tho 
tomahawk ;  Union  collegG  is  well  endowed ;  popuhv- 
tion,  7000. 

Amsterdam,  sixteen  miles  west,  on  the  north  side 
of  tho  Mohawk;  tho  Erie  Canjd  passes  througa 
this  village.  Fonda,  ten  miles  from  Amsi'^rdam,  is 
a  small  place.  Johnstown,  four  miles  north,  was  tho 
former  residence  of  Sir  William  Johnson. 

Palatine  Bridge,  eleven  miles,  crosses  the  Mo- 
hawk to  Canajoharie ;  cars  leave  the  latter  place  for 
the  Catskill  Mountains. 

Fort  Plain,  three  miles  further,  was  originally 
settled  by  Germans,  who,  like  their  neighbors,  suf- 
fered much  in  the  revolutionary  war. 

Little  Falls,  seventeen  miles  further;  the  Erie 
canal  and  Buflfalo  railroad,  at  an  immense  expense, 
pass  tlie  south  part  of  the  ^'illage ;  a  place  of  consid- 
erable commerce  from  the  Erie  canal  and  its  hydi-aulic 
power.    The  mountain  scenery  is  grand  and  sublime. 


fi, 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


129 


Herkimer  is  seven  miles  from  Little  Falls,  on  the 
West  Canada  creek,  on  which  the  far-famed  Trenton 
Falls  are  situated.  The  creek  enters  the  Mohawk 
about  half  a  mile  west  of  the  villaofe. 

Utica,  fourteen  miles  from  Herkimer  and  fifteen 
from  Trenton  Falls,  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Mohawk.  No  city  in  the  interior  of  New  York 
possesses  greater  facilities  for  commerce  than  Utica. 
It  is  located  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuyler;  pop- 
ulation 15,000;  its  long  line  of  canal-boats,  together 
with  the  seven  trains  of  cars  that  pass  through  the 
place  from  the  west,  render  it  a  place  of  great 
importance. 

Trenton  Falls,  as  has  been  remai'ked,  are  fifteen 
miles  from  Utica;  they  are  on  the  West  Canada 
creel:,  twenty-two  miles  from  its  confluence  with 
the  Moh-iwk  River  at  Herkimer.  Visitors  usually 
prefer  taking  carriages  at  Utica;  going  and  return- 
ing will  occupy  nearly  a  day.  There  is  no  such 
terrific  grandeur  and  awful  sublimity  here  as  at  Ni- 
agara ;  yet  they  are  beautiful,  and  in  many  respects 
Bublime ;  their  effect  upon  the  mind  of  the  beholder 
is  deeply  impressive,  and  he  long  retair":  the  vivid 
impressions  enstamped  upon  his  r^cmory.  The 
tourist  ought,  by  all  means,  to  visit  them;  they 
must  be  seen  before  they  can  be  appreciated. 

The  fall  of  the  rapids  for  two  miles  before  it  en- 
ters the  basin  is  sixty -six  feet;  depth  of  the  ravine, 


ill 


130 


EVERY    MAN    HIS   OWN   GCIDE. 


ii. 


m 


m 


'\U<y, 


inui: 


one  hundred;  width  of  ravine  at  the  top,  two 
hundred ;  depth  of  creek  below  the  Falls,  one  hun- 
dred. A  dark,  heavy  forest  hnngs  in  moody  silence 
^ver  the  ravine,  shuLtiug  out  the  view  until  you 
/each  the  very  verge.  The  falls  are  six  in  number, 
as  follows:  first,  the  one  on  the  Black  liiver  road; 
second,  the  upper,  ihree-fouiths  of  a  mile  below  the 
cascades;  third,  the  mill-dam;  fourth,  the  High 
Fall;  fifth,  Shermans;  sixth,  Canard's.  Descent  of 
Falls :  upper,  twenty  feet ;  cascades,  with  two  pitche* 
And  rapids,  nineteen  feet;  the  mill-dam,  the  second 
within  the  ravine,  fourteen  feet ;  width  of  stream  at 
tlie  top,  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet.  Of  the  high 
falls  there  are  three.  Des;!ent  of  firet,  forty-eight 
feet;  second,  eleven  feet;  third,  thirty -seven  feet. 
These  three,  including  the  rapids  above,  make  a  de- 
scent of  one  hundred  ten  and  one-half  feet  Sher- 
man's Fall  descends  thirty-three  when  the  creek  is 
low,  and  thirty-seven  and  thirty-nine  when  high; 
tiiis,  unlike  Niagara,  rises  when  the  rains  fall,  but  is 
subject  to  fall  many  feet  in  droughts;  the  height 
of  Canard's  Fall  is  six  feet.  The  entire  descent  of 
the  falls,  rapids  included,  is  estimated  to  be  three 
hundred  and  eighty-seven  feet,  in  less  than  four  and 
one-half  miles. 

I    The  best  time  to  visit  the  Falls  is  in  July  or  Au 
gust,  or  when  the  water  is  low ;  you  can  then  pass 
round  Sherman's  Stairway  with  perfect  safety  to  the 


KORTHERN   TOtJE. 


131 


head  of  tho  race-way.  At  tlio  hotel  there  are  two 
paths :  ono  leading  to  the  bottom  of  tho  ravine,  tho 
other  to  the  High  Falls;  the  former  is  generally 
preferred.  At  tho  foot  of  the  stairway  pass  up  the 
stream;  then  by  a  narrow  pathway  to  Sherman's 
Falls ;  in  a  few  moments  you  reach  the  High  Fall 
From  these  falls  to  tho  upper  end  of  the  race-way, 
above  the  cascades,  the  way  is  easy  when  the  stream 
is  low ;  but  from  tlicnco  upward  is  more  difficult. 
Petrifactions  and  organic  remains  may  be  found  im- 
bedded in  tho  rocks  in  the  ravine.  They  lie  flat  in 
tho  laminss;  "their  contours,"  says  a  celebrated  ge- 
ologist, "and  component  parts,  usually  being  hide 
distorted  from  their  original  shape  and  dimensions. 
Sometimes  there  is  a  defect  occasioned  in  ^heir  tran- 
sition from  tho  animal  to  tho  stony  or  fussil  state; 
but,  in  most  instances,  all  their  pr  3  are  so  com- 
pletely defined  that  not  only  the  order,  but  the  genrra 
and  species  may  bo  recognized.  Their  exteriors  are 
commonly  glossy,  often  very  smooth,  and  ordina -ily 
of  a  dark  color,  being  transformed  into  stone,  and 
constitute  integral  parta  of  tho  rocks  which  envelop 
them.  To  any  ono  who  has  devoted  any  time  to 
the  subject,  it  will  appear  that  their  prototypes 
lived  and  died  on  tho  spot,  and  that  the  rocks  ia 
which  they  are  entombed,  are  of  subsequent  forma- 
tion. A  word  to  the  ladies  before  w©  leave:  good 
calf-skin  boote  or  shoes  are  decidedly  prefera  blc, 


l». 


132 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


m 


'i  ■! 


lli 


m 


t)H 


both  as  to  health  and  for  convenience ;  the  finest 
pair  of  cloth  shoes  would  bo  ruined  in  a  single 
excursion  over  these  rocks.     We  now  return  to  Utica. 

On  our  way  west,  the  first  place  we  will  notice  is 
Syracuse,  fifty-tliree  miles.  Perhaps  there  are  no 
works  on  the  globe,  where  as  much  salt  is  manufac- 
tured as  in  the  vicinity  of  Syracuse  and  Salina. 
Four  hundred  and  fifty  acres  are  covered  with  vata 
for  solar  evaporation ;  the  roofs  drawn  over  and  re- 
moved at  pleasure.  Three  times  in  the  summer  the 
salt  is  taken  out  and  barreled  for  market;  forty  gal- 
lons make  more  than  a  bushel  of  pure  salt.  There 
are  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  works  for  boiling 
within  five  or  six  njiles.  The  state  of  New  York 
owns  the  entire  works,  which  yield  a  great  revenue. 
The  Springs  will  iasi,  probably,  while  the  world 
stands.  Nearly  three  millions  of  bnshels  are  manu- 
factured yearly.  From  Syracuse  to  Oswego,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  is  thirty-five  miles,  by  railroad;  here 
steamors  take  passengers  down  the  lake  to  Montreal, 
or  up  to  Lewiston,  sevon  mil'^s  from  Niagara;  but 
we  will  keep  the  railroad  to  tlia  Falls,  via  Buffalo. 

Auburn  is  twenty-tix  milec  from  Syracuse.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Owasco  croel,  and  affords  great  hy- 
draulic power,  which  is  cxter-svely  used.  The  stata 
prison  is  the  heiX  ^'.^jk^U^i  ioijt Itution  of  the  kind  in 
the  United  Staiy.a,  ^ihe  fvrrzge  number  of  y early- 
con  victs  is  befiv></    ^^erM  and    eigl/i     bandred; 


NORTHERN  TOUR. 


133 


popnlati'on,  10,000.  The  best  time  to  see  the  pri*- 
oneri  is  before  breakfast;  one  of  the  keepers  will 
accompany  you  for  a  mere  trifle. 

The  next  place  of  much  importance  is  Geneva, 
twenty-three  miles  from  Auburn,  situated  on  the 
north  end  of  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  thirty-seven 
miles  long,  and  about  four  wide ;  salmon  trout  are 
taken  from  its  waters;  it  never  freezes. 

It  was  upon  the  waters  of  this  lake,  that  the  cele- 
brated Jemima  Wilkinson  (who  pretended  she  was 
the  Saviour,)  made  her  followers  believe  she  could 
walk  on  the  water  if  they  had  )  aith.  She  stepped 
from  her  carriage  into  the  element,  about  ankle  deep ; 
then  turning  suddenly  to  the  multitude  she  again 
inquired  if  tbey  had  faith  that  she  could  pass  over. 
They  answered  in  the  affirmative.  She  immediately 
returned  to  her  carriage,  declaring,  "as  they  believed 
in  her  power,  it  was  unnecessary  to  display  it; "  thus 
ended  the  farce.  Travelers  from  the  west  frequently 
take  a  steamboat  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  thirty- 
seven  miles,  connecting  with  the  New  York  and 
Erie  Railroad. 

Canandaigtja  is  sixteen  miles  from  Geneva,  on 
an  outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  Lake.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  beautifullv  located  villagjes  in  the  state. 

Rochester,  twenty-eight  miles  farther  west,  lies 
on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee  River.  Tha  Erie 
canal  and   Buffalo  railroad  cross  the  river  at 


this 


' 


134  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 

place,  on  the  most  substantial  works  in  America. 
There  are  twenty-five  flouring  mills  in  the  city,  one 
hundred  atid  twenty-live  run  of  stones,  making  5500 
barrels  of  flour,  and  consuming  22,000  brishels  of 
wheat  in  every  twenty-four  hours.  There  are  six 
falls  in  the  river,  the  highest  of  vvliich,  just  below 
the  bridge,  is  ninety-seven  feet  perpendicular.  The 
celebrated  Sam  Patch,  after  he  had  made  two  suc- 
cessful jumps  at  Niagara,  took  his  last  and  fatal 
leap  here  in  1829.  Two  and  a  half  miles  below 
the  citv,  travelers  can  take  steauiers  for  the  Fulls  of 
Niagara,  or  down  the  lake  to  Montreal,  &c.  A  rail- 
road is  nearly  com})kted  in  a  direct  line  to  Niagara, 
crossing  the  river  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  above 
one  of  the  maddest  streanis  on  the  globe.  ButValo 
has  been  mentioned  in  another  place. 

If  our  friends  are  ready,  wo  will  now  start  for 
our  northern  tour  to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Ontario* 
(American  side,)  commencing*  at  Fort  Niagara, 
at  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River,  fourteen  miles  below 
the  Falls;  intermediate  \A'aq,q&  and  distances  have 
already  been  described. 

From  Fort  Niagara  to 

Rocliester 80 —  80 

Oswego 63—143 

Sackett's  Harbor 44—1 87 

Kingston  ( Canada) 40—227 

Brockville 52—279 

Ogdensburg. 12—291 


NORTHERN   TOUR.  135 

Cornwall 50—341 

Coteiiu  till  Lac 41—383    , 

Cascades 14—396 

Lachiiie 21— '120 

Montit'ul 9—429 

The  first  place  the  boat  touclics  at  after  leaving 
Furt  Kiniicara  is  Charlottesville,  at  tlie  moutli  of 
the  Genesee  Ri\'cv,  seventy-four  miles.  It  is  a  port 
of  entry;  has  a  light-house.  Government  has  ex- 
pended a  good  deal  of  money  to  improve  the  navi- 
gation. The  river  is  navigable  four  miles  further,  to 
Carthage^  thence  two  miles  to  Rochester.  Passen- 
gers arc  conveyed  to  the  city  by  railroad  carriages 
without  delay. 

GitEAT  SoDTJs  Bay  is  twenty-eight  miles  from 
Oswego.  iThis  bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is 
about  fifteen  miles  in  circumference. 

Oswego  is  sixty-three  miles  from  Rochester,  and 
is  quite  an  important  place.  Cars  leave  Oswego  for 
Syracuse  every  day,  on  the  arrival  of  the  lake  boats ; 
distance,  thirty-five  miles. 

Sackett's  IIaudor  is  forty-four  miles  from 
Oswego.  The  government  made  great  efforts  to  put 
this  place  in  a  state  of  defense  during  the  hist  war. 
The  barracks  are  still  standing;  two  forts  are  nearly 
in  ruins.  A  large  ship  of  war  was  commenced,  but 
tlie  materials  have  decayed,  and  it  never  can  b« 
finished. 


136 


XYEBT  MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


I    i 


Cape  Vincent,  twenty  miles  fro.n  Sackett's  Har- 
bor. Kingston,  in  Upper  Canada,  is  on  tlie  oppo- 
site side  of  the  lake;  Grand  Island  between; 
Morristown,  fifty  miles  further.  The  river  here  is 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  wide ;  opposite,  on  the  Can 
ada  side,  is  Brockville. 

OoDENSBURO,  American  sid^  is  twelve  miles  fur- 
ther, on  the  Oswegatchie  River;  a  fine,  flourishing 
village;  cars,  on  the  arrival  of  the  boats  leave  for 
Rouse's  Point  on  Lake  Champlain;  distance,  one 
hundred  and  eighteen  miles;  from  Rouse's  Point  to 
Burlington,  forty.  At  Burlington,  on  the  east  side 
of  Lake  Champlain,  there  are  two  railroad  routes  to 
Boston,  which  have  already  been  described.  Boats 
down  the  river  from  Ogdensburg,  generally  pass 
over  to  Prescott.  There  is  also  an  express  line  of 
steaxners  from  Lewiston  through  the  center  of  the 
lake  to  Montreal.  The  route  to  Boston,  as  mentioned 
in  another  place,  commences  at  Burlington,  in  the 
state  of  Vermont,  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain. Montpelier  is  the  capital  of  the  state,  thirty- 
eight  miles  from  Burlington.  Lofty  mountains, 
lifting  their  bleak  and  towering  heads  to  the  clouds, 
surround  the  city  on  all  sides.  It  contains  thiee 
thousand  inhabitants,  who  are  enterprising,  indus- 
trious and  happy.  It  wm  at  this  place  that  the 
Green  Mountain  Boys  rendevouscd,  who  were  so  an- 
noying, and  fought  Burgoyne  with  such  indomitiible 


I 


■■i 


mm'immi 


4 
n 


1 
I 

d 


w 


NORTHERN  TOUR.  137 

courage.  Ticonderoga,  and  tlio  greon  hilb»  of  Ver- 
mont  will  Lrevor  ring  tlio  jjraises  of  tiioso  hai'djr 
sons. 

From  Burlington  to  Concord,  the  capital  of  New 
Hampshire,  is  two  hundred  and  two  miles.  It  lies 
on  the  Merrimack  River,  which  is  navigable  for 
large  boats  to  Chelmsford. 

From  Concord  to  Lowell  is  forty-eight  miles. 
It  is  on  the  Merrimack  River.  Perhaps  there  is  no 
place  on  the  globe,  none  in  the  United  States  cer- 
tainly, where  there  is  as  much  capital  invested  in 
manufactures  as  at  Lowell.  The  following  gives 
some  idea  of  the  business  done :  amount  of  capital, 
$10,000,000 

Number  of  factories 32 

**        "  Bpindles  in  constant  use 100,000 

t       *•  looraa 4000 

Operators  employed 5000 

Males 1200 

Females 3800 

Quantity  of  new  cotton  used  annually 05,000,000  lbs. 

Number  of  bales 25,000 

•        "    yards  manufactured 29,000,000 

If  the  yards  manufactured  in  one  year,  were  all 
united,  they  would  reach  16,400  miles. 
From  Lowell  to  Boston  is  twenty-five  miles. 


138  EVERT   MAN   DIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

Tho  soutliorn  route  from  Burlington  to  Boston, 
via  Rutland,  Bellow's  Falls,  &,Q^  is  aa  follows: 

From  Burlington  to 

Rutland GT 

Bellow's  Falls 53 

Keeno 22 

Ashbtirnham 32 

Fitchburg 11 

Croton  Junction 15 

Boston 35 

Rutland  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains, three  miles  distant.  It  is  not  suri^assed  for 
beauty  of  location  by  any  village  in  the  state. 

Bellow's  Falls  lies  on  tlio  west  bank  of  tbe 
Connecticut  River ;  tlie  length  of  the  rapids  is  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile;  descent  of  tho  river  in  this 
distance,  fifty  feet;  at  the  toll-bridge  is  tho  best 
view;  t^  o  waters  rush  under  tho  bridge  with  gi'eat 
power,  in  their  wildest  fury. 

Keene  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in  New 
England;  from  this  point,  Boston  is  soon  reiiched. 

Is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  on 'a 
peninsula  two  miles  long  and  one  broad.  It  derived 
its  name  from  a  clergyman  who  emigrated  from 
Boston,  England.  The  monument  on  Bunker  Hill, 
to  perpetuate  the  memory  and  heroic  virtues  of  the 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


139 


dcatl,  IS  fifty  foot  dianKitor,  two  liuiKlrod  and  t\ycnty 
high.  Whou  complolod,  it  Asill  jutvio  in  aplondor, 
ntiy  of  a  siinilar  charactor  on  this  continent.     Tho 


J  Jul 


tho  Mo 


coinor-stono  was 
do  Lafayotto  assistod  in  tho  ceronionios.  The 
nujiibor  of  Briti.sh  onnjaixod  in  tlio  action  of  Bunker 
Hill  Avas  ostiniatod  at  JJOOO;  Anioricans,  1500. 
Tho  Ihitish  lost,  in  killed  and  wounded,  1050;  tho 
Americans,  four  hundred  and  liCty.  Hero  Gencnd 
Warren,  tho  scln^lar,  the  gentleman,  fell  in  tho  com- 
mencement of  tho  action.  The  ha"^>or  is  spacious 
and  commamllnnr;  tho  entrance  is  exceedingly  nar- 
row, scarcely  admitting  two  ships  abre:ist.  It  is  so 
strongly  fortified,  that  any  hostile  ship  in  attemptr 
ing  to  land,  would  bo  blown  out  of  tho  water; 
population,  100,000. 

Boston  uill  bo  retained  in  tho  recollections  of 
Americans,  -while  virtue,  liberty  and  })atriotism  re- 
main. Tho  hallowed  associations,  that  linger  aroimd 
this  sacred  spot — tho  glittering  steel  of  England's 
best  sons,  as  they  marched  with  a  firm  and  steady 
tread  to  tho  attack  on  Bunker  Hill ;  tho  flames  of 
Charlostown,  as  they  rolled  in  red  suigos  to  the  sky; 
tho  awful  stillness  of  tho  heroic  band  in  the  little 
foii  precursory  to  tho  coming  storm;  tho  lieights 
crowded  with  anxious  spectators,  witnessing  in  breath- 
less silence  the  doubtful   contest;   tho  memory  of 


140 


EVERT   MAN   DIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


h 


those  wlio  fell,  more  durable  than  the  monuments 
of  brass  or  marble;  the  roar  of  the  artillery  from 
the  bay — all  united  to  make  it  a  scene  awfully  grand 
and  terrific,  impossible  for  the  most  vivid  imagination 
to  portray.  The  British  were  permitted  to  approach 
within  less  than  a  hundred  yards  of  the  fort ;  not  a 
shot  from  the  Americans,  not  a  muscle  moved — the 
silence  of  death  held  its  empire  over  the  little  for- 
tress ;  but  in  an  instant  the  storm  burst ;  flash  suc- 
oeediiig  flash,  the  iion  tempest  sweeps;  heaping 
man;  horse  and  car,  in  one  undistinguished  ruin; 
twice,  the  peals  of  musketry  and  the  saber's  ch'ish 
drove  the  enemy  back ;  but  at  last  they  succeeded 
in  gaining  the  heighl-  after  the  ammunition  was  all 
exhausted,  and  the  cry  rang  through  the  fort, 
"powder!  powder!  a  world  for  powder ! " 

We  close  our  remarks  by  an  extract  from  the 
speech  of  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  on  the  erection  of 
the  moniiment. 

Jql'poSiJS  of  f[)e  1)Tor)(|h)ei)f  or\  3i|r)Iie^  i(lll. 

"Let  it  not  be  supposed  that  our  object  is  to  per- 
petuate national  hostility,  or  even  to  cherish  a  mere 
military  spirit  It  ia  higher,  purer,  nobler.  We 
consecrate  our  work  tc  the  spirit  of  National  Inde- 
pendence, and  we  wish  that  thj  light  of  peace  may 
rest  upon  it  forever.    We  rear  a  memorial  of  our 


NORTHERN  TOUR. 


141 


oonviction  of  that  uumeasured  benefit  T^hich  has 
been  conferred  on  oiir  land,  and  of  the  happy  influ- 
ences vfh'ick  have  been  produced  by  the  same  events, 
on  the  general  interests  of  mankind.  We  come,  as 
Americana,  to  mark  a  spot  ^vhich  must  be  forever 
dear  to  us  and  posterity.  We  wish,  that  whosoever, 
in  all  coming  lime,  shall  turn  his  eye  hither,  may 
beliold  that  the  place  is  not  undistinguished  where 
the  first  great  battle  of  the  revolution  was  fought. 
We  wish,  that  this  structure  may  proclaim  the  mag- 
nitude and  importance  of  that  event  to  every  class 
and  every  age.  We  wish,  that  infancy  may  learn 
the  purjDose  of  its  erection  from  maternal  lips,  and 
withered  age  may  behold  it,  and  be  solaced  by  the 
recollections  Avhich  it  suo-orests.     We  wish,  that  labor 

CO  ' 

may  look  up  here,  and  be  proud  in  the  midst  of  its 
toil.  We  wish,  that,  in  those  days  of  disaster,  which, 
as  they  come  upon  all  nations,  must  be  expected  to 
come  upon  us  also,  desponding  patriotism  may  turn 
its  eye  hither,  and  be  assured  that  the  foundations 
of  our  national  power  still  stand  strong.  We  wish, 
that  this  column,  rising  toward  heaven  among  the 
pointed  spires  of  so  many  temples  dedicated  to  God, 
may  contribute  also  to  produce,  in  all  minds,  a  pious 
feeling  of  dependence  ai  1  gratitude.  We  wish, 
finally,  that  the  last  object  on  the  sight  of  him  who 
loaves  his  native  shore,  jmd  the  first  to  ghdden  his 


U2 


KVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


wlio  revisits  it,  miiy  bo  something  v.liieli  sLall  ro 
mind  liim  of  tlie  liberty  and  glory  of  his  country 
Let  it  rise,  till  it  meets  the  sun  in  his  coming ;  let 
the  earliest  light  of  morning  gild  it,  and  parting 
day  linger  and  i)lay  upon  its  summit." 


!. 


'"» 


aoeS'ij  or)  f(}e  locj. 

On  the  morning  of  July  19th,  1853,  a  great 
excitement  was  created  by  the  discovery  of  a  man 
on  a  log  in  the  rapids,  midway  between  the  main 
shore  and  Bath  Island,  and  about  forty  yards  below 
the  bridg'3  which  leads  to  the  toll-gato  on  the  island. 
The  circumstances  as  near  as  are  known  of  the 
way  ho  got  there,  are  those:  This  man,  Avery, 
and  another  man,  they  being  in  the  employ 
of  Mr.  Brown,  boating  sand  above  the  Falls 
about  two  miles,  got  into  a  boat  at  ten  o'clock  at 
night  to  cake  a  pleasure  sail.  The  next  morning 
Mr.  Avery  was  discovered  on  the  log  above  men- 
tioned, which  being  reported,  called  thousands  of 
people  to  the  spot  to  see  the  unfortunate  man,  and 
to  do  what  thov  could  to  rescue  him.  In  the  first 
place  a  small  tx>at  was  let  down,  but  it  filled  with 
water,  and  sunk  befjre  it  reached  him.  By  this 
time  a  life-boat  from  Buffalo  had  reached  the  spot, 
and  w;i3  lowere  I  into  the  stream,  which  reached  the 


mmm 


AVERY   ON   THE    LOG. 


143 


log  he  was  on,  passed  by  abovo  it,  capsized  and 
sunk,  wliicli  wss  the  last  of  that.  The  next,  a 
Bniall  boat  was  let  down,  which  reached  the  spot 
all  right,  but  the  ropo  got  entangled  under  the  log, 
and  could  not  bo  got  loose,  so  that  boat  was  use- 
dess.  Another  plan  w;i3  tried:  a  raft  was  let  down 
to  him  all  rigiit,  and  he  got  on  it,  and  the  raft  was 
moved  toward  Bath  Island  as  far  as  it  could  be,  for 
the  ropes  got  entangled  in  the  rocks,  and  stuck  fast. 
Then  another  boat  was  let  down  to  him,  to  take  him 
froni  the  raft ;  but  as  the  boat  reached  the  raft,  the 
water  dashed  the  boat  against  tlio  bow  of  the  raft, 
which  gave  it  a  sudden  jog,  and  Avery  not  using 
the  means  that  were  prepared  for  his  safety,  viz., 
ropes  for  him  to  hold  on  to,  or  tie  himself  with, 
stood  erect  on  the  stern  of  the  raft ;  and  as  the  boat 
struck,  he  fell  off  backward,  and  the  rapid  water 
carried  liim  over  the  Falls,  at  about  six  o'clock  P. 
M.,  at  which  time  the  crowtl,  (being  about  three 
thousand  in  number,)  left  the  spot  with  slow  and 
Bolcum  slops  for  their  homes,  to  think  and  talk  of 
what  had  transpired. 


144 


TABLE  OF  DISTIKCES. 


n 


ills' 


I 


! 


TAUIiE  OF  DISTANCES 

05  TOE 

GREAT  WESTERN  RAIL  ROAD, 

CANADA. 


From  Niagara  Falls  to 
DETROIT, 

PLACB.  MILES 

Niag-ara  Falls---- 

Thon.l.l 9 

St.  Catharine's 11 

Beams ville 2'2. 

Qmashy 27 

Stoney  Creek 37 

Hamilton 43 

Dundas 41> 

Flamborough 52 

Fairchild's G2 

Paris 72 

Princeton 79 

Woodstock 91 

Beachville 9G 

InfifersoU lOO 

Dorchester 109 

London :..ii9 

Lobe 129 

Ekfrid 139 

Wardsville 155 

Chatham 183 

Baptiste  Creek 197 

Windsor. 229 

Detroit***-*- 330 


From  Detroit  to 
NIAGARA    FALLS. 

riACG.  MILBg 

Detrcit 

Windsor 

liaptiste  Creek 32 

Chatham 46 

Wardsville 74 

Ekfrid 90 

Lobo 100 

London n^ 

Dor  Chester 120 

IngersoU 129 

Beachville 133 

Woodstock 138 

Princeton 150 

Paris 157 

Fairchild's 167 

Flamborough 177 

Dundas 180 

Hamilton i86 

Stoney  Creek 192 

Grimsby 202 

Beamsville 207 

St.  Catharine's 217 

Thorold 220 

Niagara  FaJJfl....239 


